kpr Posted April 15, 2020 Share Posted April 15, 2020 Just now, Roman said: Since you've got a whole heap of wheel and tyre, do you think that while you're in the air, gunning it or backing off the throttle might change your angle a little bit? Like on motorbikes dont they hit the brakes if they want to tip forward more. Although not sure if that only works because its only on back tyre of a bike. In any case, Jumps. Fuck yes. I started to blip the throttle and this works to a point. I think with more hang time would have more time for adjustment. My brother suggested i try the jump in 2wd, but think it will just wheelspin too much. Just now, Yowzer said: Same same You're launching under suspension compression, but once the front ejects off the ramp the rear wants to do the same due to weight transfer (coz front is now weightless) but if more rebound dampening sucks, build a ramp where the suspension can relax before launch so it doesn't kick you out. I dunno if there's a way to solve it suspension-wise, but I love your work so I am keen to see it! Yeah i think the suspension could do with some more tweaks. the rear is really hard to get right. but looks like i can go half way between the settings that sucked from being too slow and whats in there now. the settings that sucked probably would work for jumps but no good for everything else, so its a bit of a compromise. I have to pull the shocks apart and change shims to change the dampening. not just click of a dial . unless someone wants to sponsor me some tipple bypass shocks. I slow mo'd the run up vid and doesn't look like its doing anything too extreme. front heavy still main issue im thinking 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yetchh Posted April 15, 2020 Share Posted April 15, 2020 Don't you have to do the whole let the throttle off slightly just as you get to the peak of the jump and then once the front wheels leave the ground you floor it again to lift the front while it's got traction at the back? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted April 15, 2020 Share Posted April 15, 2020 Some more technique would probably help too yeh. Maybe more power so it trys to flip over backwards 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted April 16, 2020 Share Posted April 16, 2020 Altered jump a bit. Was a bit of a flat spot in the transition, so dug that out making the transition bit further back an more mellow. was little bit of a lump near top of jump so chopped that out. ended up pushing plie of dirt to the top. used that to add a bit extra length, so bit more time for the suspension to sort its shit out . its pissing down now. so no test runs for awhile. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mof Posted April 16, 2020 Share Posted April 16, 2020 Time for a roll cage now you're doing sweet jumps? Extend over the deck like a baja for extra chassis rigidity Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dudley Posted April 16, 2020 Share Posted April 16, 2020 3 hours ago, Mof said: Time for a roll cage now you're doing sweet jumps? Extend over the deck like a baja for extra chassis rigidity Lol safety defeats the purpose of paddock hooning 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted April 16, 2020 Share Posted April 16, 2020 3 hours ago, Mof said: Time for a roll cage now you're doing sweet jumps? Extend over the deck like a baja for extra chassis rigidity probably should. probably wont though 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted April 16, 2020 Share Posted April 16, 2020 this absolutely needs to be turned into a prerunner style truck 5 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mof Posted April 16, 2020 Share Posted April 16, 2020 Ala Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted April 16, 2020 Share Posted April 16, 2020 ^ exo cage not my thing. ' Prerunner stye is sweet. but would start with a whole new truck if doing something like that. redesign the whole rear, trailing arm rear suspension etc... Made everything fit under the tray on mine so it still looks semi farmer spec 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KP_wag Posted April 19, 2020 Share Posted April 19, 2020 CR500? Is it violent in the cab when you land? Second to last pic is wicked! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted April 19, 2020 Share Posted April 19, 2020 Oh nar you don't wanna see me on 2 wheels. no skill too much throttle. if hit it at the right speed, not full send, but enough to make it to the down slope. it has a bit less time to nose dive and lands pretty nice. doesnt fell like shit in the cab the jump in the pic its starting to feel a bit harsh. but not awww my back harsh, potholes feel worse in the kp. only about 10mm left on the front hydro bumps. If landed the same jump flat i recon it would hardly bother it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted April 19, 2020 Share Posted April 19, 2020 Is there something you can adjust in the rear shocks, or is it purely a centre of gravity thing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted April 19, 2020 Share Posted April 19, 2020 Just too nose heavy for jumps. Anything thats any good at jumps usually has rear weight bias. if messed around with the shocks a lot could likely get it to launch more nose up, but wont fix the actual problem Slowed down the vid i took those screen caps from. the rear doesn't seem to kick at all, so rebound probably slow enough. It pretty much travels in a perfect arc, Best way i can explain it, is get a paper plane with a weight on the nose and throw it up at a 45 deg angle. more distance it gets the more it nose dives this pic says suspension is ok 3 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swing Posted October 31, 2020 Share Posted October 31, 2020 Awesome project! I have a question regarding mating it to the Hilux gearbox. I have an MR2 MK1 (125hp 4A-GE) which needs bodywork, and I have a 4x4 Hiace (LH118) campervan with the 2L. This project gave me some ideas for when I don't want to continue with the MR2 and want to convert my Hiace to petrol My Hiace game with similar drivetrain, I think the same gearbox. Position of engine is different, sump is different, and it has torsion IFS, but other than that, it is with low-gear etc. It even got a rear LSD! The gearbox is a G52. My MR2 is pretty much a fwd setup. I am wondering how you mated the 4A-GE to the G* transmission? Custom bellhousing made but the shaft fits in number of splines? Of course the motor mounts and plumbing are all custom, I get that. Thanks in advance. And yes, my Hiace is much heavier than the Hilux, although I know it will be lighter with the 4A-GE than the 2L diesel. I am wondering if torque at higher RPM will be an issue. It has got the 5.125 gearing from factory, so that's good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UTERUS Posted October 31, 2020 Share Posted October 31, 2020 @Swing http://www.a1turbos.co.nz/shopexd.asp?id=35 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted October 31, 2020 Share Posted October 31, 2020 really need a good turbo setup on them, to get the extra weight moving. especially on a bigport engine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swing Posted November 1, 2020 Share Posted November 1, 2020 Thanks, a bell housing you can buy, great. The engine bay of the Hiace is quite different but the 4age can probably fit. It is running 225/75r16 wheels, so not the biggest offroad tyres. This is only about torque, the power output is higher (and higher in the revs, I know). You could boost it, but I think I may want to add an electric motor, lets say 20hp, providing the extra torque from 0rpm. It will add 150nm, so that is significant. Do power steering and vaccum electric so it doesn't bother the 4age anymore. That allows me to ditch starter and alternator, and allows to ditch the gas tank and other stuff, because I am going to do the camper/rv stuff electric only. Swap in a 48v lithium pack for the same weight as a 12v lead battery. That way, it serves two purposes, so I can cook on regen power and will male the van lighter. And further weight reduction on the car, not bringing the swing out tyre carrier anymore. I already built an offgrid lithium system. And I love the instant torque from my EV Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted January 23 Share Posted January 23 That new inlet cam is algood, I was talking to someone the other day about camshaft upgrades on twin cam turbo engines. For some reason people seem to think this makes turbo lag. Mostly there is no real downside on cam upgrades, other than maybe a big cam on the exhaust would benefit from a bit more exhaust housing area to make sure exhaust gas has a good chance to escape the cylinder head.. then when you add vct you can tame down the low end driveability and help the mid-range spool. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted January 23 Share Posted January 23 Yeah most "turbo" cams are pretty tame. It definitely starts to hurt the spool up when get to a certain point though. If i put the matching exhaust cam in this, turbo comes on about 1000rpm later. But they are na cams. would be on the big end of turbo cams. It really just has the same effect as an na engine. the bigger you go, the more sensitive engine gets to whats attached to the exhaust side of the engine. get it right and big cams will work down to lower rpm than most people would think. get it wrong and everythings going to come out the wrong end Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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