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KPR's 84 chromelux discussion


Stu

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Yo Kris, im building a d/cab ln106 with sb 350 in it aiming for prerunner status, how are you finding the squat/roll steer in the back of this? My link set produces numbers real close to yours so am keen to hear any words you have regarding yours? Also certing mine so might have to change it up? Fully sick yota btw 

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choice.    

After doing the front.  ive dialed in more rear antisquat using the spare adjustment holes.    moved the top link down at the chassis end.  top link is close to parallel to the ground.     now has around 90% anti squat.     

couldn't really drive it very hard with leaves up front.   but once i done the front setup and started driving it faster  (70-80k through a bumpy paddock)  it showed up what was wrong with the rear.   under acceleration it would squat and blow through all the travel,  not  leaving alot  to soak up the bumps.   so dialed in the antisquat to compensate.   Ideally i'd like to move some weight to the rear so can run a stiffer spring/ valving and dial out some of the antisquat.  but it seems to be working ok for now.

as for roll steer.  offroad havent noticed any.      on the road i haven't really driven it with the  front 3link  setup.   but when it still had the leaves up front,  the rear didn't do anything silly

 

i would definitely build some adjustment into it if you can

 

 

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175/225lb front    100/200lb rear
combined rate
98lb Front
67lb Rear

spring rates seem retardedly soft  after coming from stuff setup for track.   body roll is pretty bad if you throw it into a corner , but i cant go harder spring rates without raising the truck and seems to work well other than the roll  

im using the 200lb rear spring as a poor mans hydro bump stop, locks out the 100lb spring at end of the travel. if i get around to putting hydro bumps on rear, will  probably go to 125/150 or something for less aggressive change over rate

 

Oh and have driven it down the road a few times now.  seems to drive all good once get used to the body roll.

 

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Hey man what's up with youre front diff have you turned it over?

Noticed your pinion is at the top and the draglink/knuckles are higher also

What's it drive like with the front diff welded

Was gonna do that to mine 

It's my daily but should be ok    shouldn't it

I don't drive in 4wd on the road  

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Its got a high pinion head in the front from a prado.   has a high steer kit in it also.

Has a switchable locker up front. welded rear.     but yeh with the front locker engaged, it pushes the front a bit more and doesnt turn as well.   but i dont think its as bad as most people say.  stock cv's probably wont love it much.    will be fine locked on the road with the hubs unlocked. 

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I would bet CVs will probably be ok if you have just a very small amount of mechanical sympathy and keep the wheels straightish when wanging over rocks at 9000rpm or ease back to 8000rpm if you have to saw at the wheel with it locked. Most of the bad rap stuff gets in 4x4 land is from people just being total mindless apes in 2000+kg steel duplo blocks. your truck must be pretty light by comparison so just be a small minded ape rather than completely mindless and it will be all good plus a bunch of bananas.

 

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cv's  are  meant to be the weakest part of the factory front axle.  but cant say i've had any experience myself, since swapped them out with stronger aftermarket ones before i even drove it.

but other than that. yes you've pretty much covered it.  i went with keep it light, fix any weak points and drive at 9000rpm  option

also 99% of the time i forget to use the locker anyway, even in old mates viral vid it was only 3wd
 

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