kpr 3,517 Report post Posted December 9, 2017 driveshaft shortened decided to shorten the front half (2 piece) so didnt put the unis under any more angle. meant had to move the driveshaft hanger forwards finished. plenty of clearance... rear has more up travel and the way the hydro bumps load up, makes the front flex a bit more. so things getting tight. even though over all have lost a little flex. still messing around with a few things setup wise. but the new shocks seem to be working better out of the box than the old ones. ended up going with 2x 80lb springs on each corner back there, so yep thats a 40lb spring rate on the rear crazy soft 14 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpr 3,517 Report post Posted December 12, 2017 Been dialing in the suspension. almost getting to the point that need to re-valve the shocks to go any further. basically been messing with the spring preload and switch over to the 2nd spring rate. best results so far have been setting the rear soft as possible spring wise and also softening up the hydro bumps, gone from 90psi to 50psi. Then on front have it switching to the 2nd spring rate with only 20mm travel from ride height which also stops it rolling so much. so far im thinking it needs more compression valving in the front. bit of a learning curve to figure it all out. still having a nose dive issue. my jump at the end of the vid sucks, which isnt helping the cause. can see in the vid if hold it tapped it works a little better. try roll the jump does a sweet nose dive. seems to go over the first bump fairly nice. gearing kinda sucks and have a massive leak in the inlet manifold which isnt helping the cause. / need bigger paddock side effect of less pressure in bumpstops. that tuck 15 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpr 3,517 Report post Posted January 4 So @Stu stupidly promised to make a fuel tank along time ago. He drew this up and got it cut out for me. I hand made the inspection flange, pump and sender brackets inside, before giving it back to stu to do the final welding The old tank sat hard up against the cab and fairly high up New tank sits back further plus lower down. whole aim here is to get more weight over the rear axle and lower cog. old tank had zero baffles. so will be alot better fuel slosh wise as well. mounting cradle is a little overkill but any weight behind the door handles is ok. bit more to go here. 23 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpr 3,517 Report post Posted January 8 Was going to run a drop down section like the oid tank for the fuel pickup. but the driveshaft is in the way of ideal location at rear of tank. so brought the worlds most expensive fuel pickup which is one of these things before tank was welded cut a some big holes in the baffles, so this bit of foam can go across bottom of tank and hold the hydramat down like so, that thing bolted on the left is the fuel level sender from the old tank, bent the arm so it works in here got the shits with every thread being different, so welded fittings to make my own adapters . the mat is npt, the pump is metric, then theres the an fittings and back to hard line... Fancy fuel lines. they connect to the hard lines just under the cab. had to keep the diesel fuel cap Got a bit of wiring then should be good to go 18 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpr 3,517 Report post Posted January 9 Got it running again, that hydramat thing is pretty sweet. put maybe 2L max in the tank. drove it up my little hill. even parked it here for awhile, restarted sweet. no signs of running out of gas. pretty legit for a flat bottom tank. 15 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpr 3,517 Report post Posted January 13 This things a death trap , below will probably bore most people so just watch the vid.. Been doing some shock tuning, basically have to pull the shocks apart and change a bunch of shims on the shock piston. the shocks were factory 50/70 valving, which means 50 (.25mm shims) compression 70 (.3mm shims) rebound. thicker shims = more damping. plus can get creative and mix and match different sized shims to make the shocks more progressive etc. there are 5 shims on each stack plus and overload on the rear took some rebound out, put the .25mm stack off the compression side onto rebound side. also took compression out but left 2 of the .3 shims on the bottom of the stack so shocks stiffen up on a hard hit the above made quite a noticeable difference across the paddock alot less harsh. then did similar to the front, swapped the .25 compression onto rebound side. and put the .3 stack on compression plus swapped out the bottom shims for .4mm's like on the rear for more progressive damping the diffs now drop out alot faster so ready for next bump. the compression is more suited to the weight each end. still aint dialed but alot beter Any way end of the day, back on the marae. made truck go faster over shit / scary. actually looks super tame in the vids , going about 80k here. i can pass cars that are driving down the road.. 15 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpr 3,517 Report post Posted January 14 This one shows the speed a bit better. yup its got some epic body roll. its always gonna be roly, but have yet another spring swap to go in the rear which will make it a bit better Probably said it before but the gearing kinda sucks in high range it'l do around 130k in 2nd gear, so its a bit of a sack when going from 1st to 2nd until it gets up some rpm but After the above vid decided to have a play with the timing, as its still running the same ignition map as when the engine was in my ae85. been meaning to do some adjustments for ages. Managed to put quite a lot more timing in while still being safe. Now its got more nuts everywhere. Which means more sideways and more air, put it back in shed shortly after.. Thinking it was a combo of the original tune being fairly conservative and my new 36+1 trigger setup being more accurate 10 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
