Popular Post kpr Posted September 25, 2020 Author Popular Post Share Posted September 25, 2020 made lower bracket thing for radiator to sit on main cross bit is made from thin stuff and brackets 3mm. weighs pretty much nothing goes here managed to bend and beat bend into shape. bit more hectic than planned. looks to be working all good, just gotta manage to make 3 more 14 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post kpr Posted September 26, 2020 Author Popular Post Share Posted September 26, 2020 Im just hitting shit with a hammer and its working for once 29 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post kpr Posted September 27, 2020 Author Popular Post Share Posted September 27, 2020 @Dudley Gonna be jealous of my panel beating skills. Only using a builders claw hammer with some duct tape over the end, and a 6 by 2 One down 2nd one in progress. outlet needs to be towards the bottom so bit different to the inlet side. looking decent so far 32 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post kpr Posted October 6, 2020 Author Popular Post Share Posted October 6, 2020 Almost ready to test run. new setup including the radiator mount is 2.8kg lighter. 5.8kg vs 8.6kg 25 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post kpr Posted October 8, 2020 Author Popular Post Share Posted October 8, 2020 graphs.. this one is the old intercooler red boost line is measured post cooler blue boost line pre cooler 1.6psi pressure drop new cooler red boost line post cooler blue boost line pre cooler 0.4psi pressure drop red old cooler blue new cooler boost mesured pre cooler on both, being bang on the same up top. but more air makes it to the other side = more power with more boost wold cooler gets worse. 1.9psi pressure drop new cooler still only 0.5psi drop gap in power getting bigger at higher boost. and hanging on longer. So yeh no massive gains. but cooler was definitely a bottleneck as suspected. 15 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post kpr Posted October 10, 2020 Author Popular Post Share Posted October 10, 2020 If you have a spare 17mins of your life to waste. this is how i made the end tanks with a claw hammer and angle grinder 13 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post kpr Posted February 12, 2023 Author Popular Post Share Posted February 12, 2023 So I went to put this thing back together. but I had stolen the 3-4" silicone hose for the intake for the 20v. Said silicone hose connected to the airbox i made from the stock 2L airbox This thing loses 5kw vs just the filter by itself. likely due to the lack of area around the filter. plus the inlet in the side even though its 3" Ive never made a better one because lack of space. plus would be a diddle to make something such and odd shape. When done the intercooler i freed up a little more space and moved the ps reso to the other side. So thought i should at least attempt it straight away made my own life hard using the same big 4" inlet filter. made a 3 - 4" cone that had to be cut into the lid of box on an angle. yeah it probably would have been easier to make the top bolt onto the box rather than the end. but cant make things too easy cutout on the bottom to clear intercooler pipe 4" inlet. needed to make inlet big as possible to cover up my sins of using a 90 silicone bend off the side. i had first made a ali bend/ cone to go in the side, but couldn't get the box in/out of the truck. I only added a little rubber mount at the front, to hold it in place off the body. It just hangs off the silicone joiners at the other end. Wasn't sold there would be enough flex in the silicone joiner between turbo and airbox, if solid mounted airbox to body . since the body is rubber mounted to the chassis, it can move around a bit. First thing to eat shit would be the turbo. next, to see if it actually works 27 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post kpr Posted February 24, 2023 Author Popular Post Share Posted February 24, 2023 So there was some cyclone thing and i lost power for almost a week. The plan was to re-tune it. as was never 100% happy how it was setup, after going to itb's some time ago This engine has always had staged injection. as when built the engine for trueno, i was too cheap to buy big injectors. so used 8x 295's had hanging around which worked all good. when going to the bmw itb's, they have injector ports in them which suit the long nose injectors. so used the same 980cc injectors as the starlet. so 295 primary 980 secondary. staging was never bang on and did some weird stuff. but nothing noticable to drive or harmful to engine. So attempting to re-tune it, i basically ended up in the same place the transition was all over the shop and extra fuel compensation was way more that than it should have been. The first part of the problem due to lack of info, and injectors being so different. if the primary and 2ndry injectors are the same, doesn't matter deadtimes and the likes are a bit off. second problem get to that later. Soo decided just bin the primary injectors, and run the big ones Now the my peasant g3 link only has 2 injector drivers. even with the injectors wired into 2 groups, was getting the epic fuel hammer. which sounded like a big end knock so off to zebra to pinch all the fuel dampers. (some cars have them most dont) Test fit seemed to fix the issue Now had to block some injector holes so could bin the factory rail. Probably should have driven to the shop and brought proper tapered plugs and tap. but holes were already right size for m12 tap, which i had. can just unscrew them and injectors will fit as normal if need to at later date. Also block is muddy.. Thats the damper thing on top of the banjo fitting. i think it was off a 1gfe! Had to move feed location on rail so cleared plenum ^^^^^^ When was doing this i just happened to blow through one of the fuel regs. yeah you shouldn't be able to do that! wasnt sealing off This was my 2nd problem having to compensate will too much fuel under high/er boost. the pump could hold pressure at lower load but when fuel demand went up, reg would bypass to much fuel and drop pressure. i must have picked up a dud reg out of my piles of junk, when originally made the rail for the itb's So, 2 weeks later. try tuning it again for the 3rd time?? tune at low boost first. everything working as it should Turn it up. still works. amazing! ^ These runs are in 3rd gear with 31' tyres. usually see up to 10kw more when run rwd in 1:1 gear. so probs in the 240's if could run in 4th. but thats about 500kph in this thing pretty good for stock cam engine . will drop the boost back to 1 bar and sort out the lazy boost curve, just wanted to make sure the fueling does what it should. TL;DR had fueling issues. engine make 236kw on 17psi. still haven't tested airbox 21 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post kpr Posted February 27, 2023 Author Popular Post Share Posted February 27, 2023 Soo, i finally tested the airbox. turns out there is less in it that i thought. not really any difference worth worrying about. few kw. what was actually worse, was the filter by itself in the engine bay. even with the bonnet open it made a little less power than both airboxes that pull cold air. oh well least the new one matches rest of the engine bay now i guess I also acquired this thing, its yellow and rusty. no real plans for it. but its kinda cool how it is, and actually runs super nice i threw it on the dyno today for a laugh after finishing up the tune on the white one. 3y, 2L or raw power. smashed out a massive 49.9kw which isnt too bad considering its rated at 65kw makes a couple more kw than the 4a at 1500rpm. the scaling maybe off slightly in favor to the 3y, but yeah.. 16 1 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post kpr Posted December 24, 2023 Author Popular Post Share Posted December 24, 2023 If you follow my youtube, you may have seen the teeboon 7a i tested in the starlet. It wasn't long for this life and ran a big end. Since 7age's are wet blankets. We come up with a deal, where i would acquire the 7a block and je pistons, leading to the following abortion, which combines these parts with the long rod test engine (frankenturd) So, 7a crank in the bin, bran new 4age crank, custom long rods and the je pistons First problem was 7a block had been decked .6mm or so, for the 7a with 4age spec pistons. 7a rods sit 4age pistons about .6mm down the bore. so the work around is to nang that amount off the block deck, to get zero deck height, cool. But my custom long rods are made to work with the factory height 7a block. After the block getting a fresh skim, that number was about .8mm. So skimmed .8mm off the pistons. pretty easy as they have a small dish and only the outer edge needed to come off The valve cutouts on the je pistons were on the wrong angle and pretty weak, plus they already had ate some valves. since was going to have to do the above butchery anyway, hit them with the die grinder to get clearance needed. sounds pretty rough, but i would rather buy new pistons then spend money on these old things. weight matched pistons and maxchina rods Installed with balanced crank, toda oil pump gears and a fresh gold fade Head is just sitting on the block at this point. But is getting the Turd head with the og vvti setup. Its modified bigport head, about far as can go on stock valves. from memory it made 120kw on stock cams, and 137kw on 193b cams in na form. Will just run stock cams to start with at least. Also made a new trigger setup, that mounts the sensors in the back of the head The intake cam 3 tooth is for the vvti, I'm just replicating what the jz runs here. Exhaust is single tooth sync/home for engine position. Will this horrible mess of parts make it to 10k rpm or fly to bits first? place bets now.. tl;dr hilux getting long rod, vvti, turbo 21 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post kpr Posted January 15 Author Popular Post Share Posted January 15 After working on this thing for 2 weeks solid, got it all together and running. Pretty much nothing was a straight bolt together, I think the only thing that went straight on was the plenum to intercooler pipes. everything else had to be modified in some way. but you get that when no 2 parts on this engine are meant to go together from factory Had a few little issues once running. but mostly plain sailing On stock cams the old engine made a little more jam (better head by the looks) but can see the vvti doing its stuff to hold the new one up. with boost coming on decent amount sooner The plan was always to swap to a bigger inlet cam and use the vvti to make it run nice for 4wding stuff. Was going to run with the stock cams for a bit, but had some oil leaks which i was down to the cams to fix. so didnt even make it off the dyno for a test run. Turns out the big inlet cam was the money as expected. is a 284 from 193b set. Pretty happy with it. It already had plenty of power for what it needed to do. but having more power and revs tagged on each end makes a big difference, especially in high range with the retarded gearing speaking for retarded gear ratio's. this is what 10k rpm, 4.88 diffs, w56, 4.7 crawler gears and 33" tyres gets you so my main mud bashing gear when you want to get places is 4th, old engine would do 8600rpm. new 9900rpm. so i can pull the same wheel speed in 4th as in 5th before, which was a bit too tall to get going in. but if you did it would zing. so 4th should be good now... High range is where it gets really dumb. If skip to the end of the video below i was in high range. chasing down cars driving down the road while in the paddock more graphs and noises in the vid. skip to the 7min mark at least. 32 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post kpr Posted January 23 Author Popular Post Share Posted January 23 Still working through a few things. Also forgot to mention, the new engine still runs super nice with the big inlet cam and vvti. could daily drive it like a factory engine, smooth idle. doesnt stall out easy etc. would be pretty unsuspecting in a street car. Anyway since has to go in mud and stuff, been making the cambelt covers fit. which took some time, since has oversized pulleys and the 7a block is 15mm taller. made up a 3mm spacer between backing plate and the plastic covers plus a bit to fill the gap. had to nang a hole out for the vvti pulley to stick though. obviously covers arent going to seal off. but should keep most of the junk out some other stuff that had to do, that actually took pictures of. added an external oil drain to back head, between the to trigger sensors. since is bigport head. and this thing is mostly going up a hill when tapped out 7a block is missing a bolt hole which my butchered blacktop ps pump bracket bolts to. so did some illegal welding moves and made it attach to one of the lower bolt holes. also had some alignment issues making it spit the belt. which think i have solved cut 15mm out of the exhaust manifold, rather than modifying everything attached to the turbo. and yeah other stuff. 28 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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