kpr Posted November 24, 2019 Author Share Posted November 24, 2019 So had a moment. Will it ever go again? Maybe As said somewhere up there. ^ Was having some electrical issues. I done a half assed fix, which made it better but look even more shit and still had issues. Short version. All the power feeds go around the truck about 6 times before ending up where they need to go. putting the battery in the back made things worse as i just re-fed the main fuse box. beside the rad overflow bottle. I was actually trying to find a spot to put a new oil catch can. Janky wiring was annoying me and in the way. fixing it moved up the list.. Plan is to move the main fuse box into the cab. This will shorten the main power feed from battery. Can then grab power for all the efi stuff & fans directly off the battery feed. Have managed to drag most cables back into the cab that ran to fuse box, just leaving the wiring for the lights running under the guards. most of the main feeds look to be the correct length to plug straight back into fuse box without cutting. so thats a win. Fuse box that needs to be tidied up and installed in cab. 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post kpr Posted December 22, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted December 22, 2019 Goes again, everything seems to work a lot better so far. Main power feed from battery and fuse box now in passenger foot well. pretty much the only place it would fit Made catch can that fits where fuse box used to be. some fresh spraycan paint even 16 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted December 23, 2019 Author Share Posted December 23, 2019 On 15/02/2017 at 21:45, kpr said: Coilovers installed. I needed to weigh the truck to give me a starting point on what spring rates to run. Also to give the guys building the shocks, some idea what valving to put into them. just measured spring compression times the spring rate to give a rough idea. 440kg on the front corners 248kg on the rear corners 1376kg total inc mud tyres/wheels (guessing it could go at least 50kg either way) not that bad considering each wheel weighs around 40kg. and compared to the weight of 2wd cars around same size. 64/36 front/rear. yeah its basically a race car,... So, i did this again using the same coil overs and springs. 8kg springs 210mm long Front compressed 91mm adding both springs together. so 91mm x 8kg = 728kg Front Rear compressed 63mm adding both springs together. 63mm x 8kg = 504kg Rear 1232kg with almost empty fuel tank (60L), no idea how much fuel it had when weighed it last time, but guessing would have been empty because it always is. worst case its about 100kg lighter than the 1376kg it was, All the weight come off the front. Which is what ive slowly been chipping away at. 59% front 41% rear with empty fuel tank. still not great but better than 64/36 Should be able to pull another 10kg out of the front if swap out the brake calipers and intercooler. Anyone got some fc/fd rx7 calipers hanging about ? 8 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post kpr Posted January 29, 2020 Author Popular Post Share Posted January 29, 2020 Started testing some more intake stuff yeh nar didnt run them that long ^ but made this abortion Red line is one of the best runs i could find from the itb setup Blue line is the run from the setup in picture above Green line is the same as blue, but runners cut down 25mm As can see cutting runners down the 25mm moved the peak higher in the rpm range. and starting to push the big loss off the end of chart Cant cut the current runners shorter due to tower clearance. so awaiting some tighter bends to carry on testing. Goal is to try get it to do the same thing as my na setup. get that peak to sit between 7000 -8000 rpm and gain about 15kw up top. depends if the sharp radius bends are an issue or not 17 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted February 2, 2020 Author Share Posted February 2, 2020 Having some kinda issue at normal boost level. (13psi) suspect clutch is starting to slip. or possibly some kind of airflow issue, as it pretty much brick walls at 200kw even on 16psi boost. So in the meantime re did the tests at 6psi boost Red line is the same length at green line in above post. - long pipes cut down 25mm Blue line is with weld elbows - suspension tower in the way so had to use tighter radius bends Green is normal setup all of the runs were done within an hour of each other So yeh, maybe another 20 -30mm shorter should be the sweet spot. Not really what i was hoping for but still some not bad gains through midrange - around 5%. The good thing is that 5% multiplies with boost. 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted February 7, 2020 Author Share Posted February 7, 2020 Have decided to make a more conventional style plenum to try on this, will make it with runners slightly shorter than the blue run. maybe some magic will happen, maybe not. when i tested the current plenum on the starlet it really didn't like it, so that was pretty good sign somethings not right. Made a vid on the same thing a few days back 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post kpr Posted February 15, 2020 Author Popular Post Share Posted February 15, 2020 Started to make a new plenum. 5" donut chop, butchered the old plenum to harvest the bellmouths. so yeh hopefully this works.. Done some more butchery, to the suspension tower cover this time. I did buy some cast elbows, but didn't like them. diameter was slightly too small and real sharp bend. managed to "reshape" the tower cover to gain enough clearance so could use the ali bends i used for testing. They have a id slightly bigger than the throttles, should be good. Still pretty close to the tower, but looks like it will all fit in there. the runners will enter the plenum on a bit of an angle, and same deal with bellmouths, they wont sit parallel with the base of plenum. Seems like a better compromise than using sharp bends 16 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post kpr Posted February 29, 2020 Author Popular Post Share Posted February 29, 2020 Since runners would be already entering the plenum on a weird angle, decided to aim them forward a bit as well, for firewall clearance. That meant could run a full bellmouth on each runner also. So build up the sides with welder and linished them back nice plenum just needs a little trimming to fit base plate. then try make a mess of it with some janky welding Awaiting a 5 to 3" reducer to stick on the front to change to intercooler pipe size 25 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post kpr Posted March 1, 2020 Author Popular Post Share Posted March 1, 2020 Managed to stick it together ok ish with the old mitech. have done worse have done better.. Lost count how many days spent on it, but here it goes compressed into 10 mins : 30 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post kpr Posted March 8, 2020 Author Popular Post Share Posted March 8, 2020 Ok Just finished putting on the snuffleupagus. looking good so far! red is the dual plenum. blue new runs from all the other testing i done up there ^ somewhere blue: new plenum with correct runner length. green: weld elbows with dual plenum red : long ali bends with dual plenum pink: dual plenum bolted straight to throttles New setup wins everywhere. when back on the normal 13psi should get interesting 26 2 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post kpr Posted March 14, 2020 Author Popular Post Share Posted March 14, 2020 So, i was wrong.. it wasn't the intake that was restricting it on high boost. Still starts to brick wall around 200kw Red line is the new setup, Blue dual setup Not following what it does on low boost: Decided to test the pressure drop across the crappy china intercooler. I'm not fancy enough to have 2 map sensors. so these are back to back runs. Red run is measured pre intercooler. Blue post 1.5psi maybe doesn't sound so bad if were running 30psi. but at this boost, its 10% pressure loss. The way it gets worse as power and rpm increase suggests its junk also. was almost at the top of my list to replace anyway 14 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post kpr Posted March 21, 2020 Author Popular Post Share Posted March 21, 2020 Suspension brace didn't fit with new plenum. probably could have made the plenum 15mm shorter and it would have. but good excuse to make lightweight version brace. Almost ready for test run to the wall of shame for the old one 24 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post kpr Posted April 1, 2020 Author Popular Post Share Posted April 1, 2020 So.... I tried to get an intercooler. but no go with lockdown. so brought a wastegate instead. In the meantime i made a video Then said wastgate showed up. Why? because loud noises. used to sound amazing with the old 2 bolt tial. but when i swapped to the turbosmart chasing boost creep it sounded a bit tame. turns out the Tial v band gate has the same inlet flange. and same valve style as the 2 bolts. just needed to weld on new outlet flange, easy. Chucked it on dyno to check boost. first run, sounds amazing again. making all the midrange power because wrong spring selection, 17psi but thats no drama tune is safe up there, carry on... then nunga nunga .. Caught covid 3s done the same as starlet run a big end, just number 2 instead of 3. turns out this engine is 8 years old. seen some abuse in my 85 before it made it into the hilux. Havent come up with a plan yet. probably pull engine tomorrow and inspect rest 14 1 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post kpr Posted April 4, 2020 Author Popular Post Share Posted April 4, 2020 Looks like i should be able to fix engine back to pretty much 100%, lockdown spec The bad; it has spun 2 big end bearings, shells in pic below were worst. All the rest of the bearings in the engine look pretty tired as well. Crank isn't too bad, but would need a grind to be usable. plus seems it has already be ground in the past, so in the bin it goes. Oil pump hasn't let go or anything but some bearing material has gone through it, bin as well. from there onwards everything looks clean, oil filter has done its job Good news is I have a bran new crank and oil pump. Both are for another project Ive been collecting parts for. Means that goes back down the list, but rather have this thing running. Rods are all good. some very light marks on one of them, shouldn't be an issue. pistons and bores look perfect, although i haven't taken pistons out as may not be able to get hold of a ring compressor. Have managed to sort some new main and rod bearings, should be here early next week. Have also done the oil restrictor mod, to the oil gallery that feeds the head. keep more oil in the sump at high rpm Tl;dr : putting this junk back together with new crank, oil pump & bearings. 29 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post kpr Posted April 10, 2020 Author Popular Post Share Posted April 10, 2020 So managed to get this thing fixed. everything measured up good so chucked it together New crank and bearings special sauce 10 mins of me doing up bolts if you bored: 18 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post kpr Posted April 13, 2020 Author Popular Post Share Posted April 13, 2020 Well, I'm still not sure if this was a really good idea, or a really bad idea. 47 6 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post kpr Posted April 15, 2020 Author Popular Post Share Posted April 15, 2020 Made jump even bigger. As usual got bit of nose dive issue, can possibly alter jump to make it better. but being front heavy doesn't help. Thinking may strap a wheel or 2 on the very back and maybe put some gas in it.. then it may fly a bit flatter. after all the jumps in the below vid, still got 20mm left in the left hand front hydro bump and about double that on front right, as tends to want to land on that corner for some reason. if can get it to land flat and let the rear do some of the work, will be walk in the park and should be able to hit it with some more speed Jumps are fun, but kinda scary 23 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post kpr Posted April 19, 2020 Author Popular Post Share Posted April 19, 2020 Im gonna go for an early retirement on this one. Strapped some wheels to the back. smashed the throttle some more in the air. helped a little, still nose diving. tried in rwd, surprisingly not much different. pretty close to being out of suspension travel. super unkeen to fix bent truck. Not saying no more jumps, just don't wanna push it any further In saying that i think its done pretty, well for something that wasn't built to do jumps. Now i have a big fuckoff jump in my back yard. what to do with it.. Did I try going faster. yep.. Hit it at about 55kph. about 20m length. or 65 foot because seems to be the universal jump measurement, sound impressive. got pretty high too . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . could prob jump the GC? 38 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post kpr Posted September 6, 2020 Author Popular Post Share Posted September 6, 2020 Long time no update. Haven't really done anything to it but managed to do a little run up the river and use it as a boat. only casualty was one of the steering box bolts. was one of the factory m10 captive nut holes in the chassis. possibly was a little janky to start with. it stripped out and bolt went goodbye. so steering box was only holding on by 2 blots. was even more like driving an old shcool bus than usual . Have drilled the sucker out and tapped a m14 in there so should be good to go again. the crack at the start of the vid ^ is possibly when the bolt shot out.. 12 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post kpr Posted September 24, 2020 Author Popular Post Share Posted September 24, 2020 So somewhere way back up there was having a whinge about the intercooler being shit this one. it was the cheapest china special i could buy when first built truck. 600x280x75 core Got a new hypertune core, was meant to be 550x300x76, so had purchased some 3" tube which is also 76mm, to make some fancy end tanks. but turns out i got more than what i paid for... id of the cores are about 79mm So attempting to make it work anyway, I made this thing that bolts in place of the vice jaws to open up the tube. surprisingly it works since that looks like its going to work. back to mounting the cooler. radiator will need to be remounted also, since was hung off the old cooler. 17 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.