escorted Posted July 18, 2014 Share Posted July 18, 2014 Roll backwards down the driveway and smack it into D, hang a west side out the window and the ladies will come running. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
f100_dreamin Posted July 18, 2014 Author Share Posted July 18, 2014 Haha you guys crack me up, it will do them, it just takes a while to over power the brakes haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Threeonthetree Posted July 18, 2014 Share Posted July 18, 2014 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
f100_dreamin Posted July 28, 2014 Author Share Posted July 28, 2014 One step closer to my manual conversion, picked up a 30e manual box from my mate, with supposedly noisy bearings for $100, so pulled that apart last night an took the cases to work an put them through the turbo wash a couple of times to get all the oil/dirt/general grime off, just need to pull the gear cluster apart an get some numbers off the bearings so I can get some prices. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
f100_dreamin Posted December 26, 2014 Author Share Posted December 26, 2014 So the 30e box is still in the garage, however there is a reason, as i stated earlier the plan was going to be to put a 304 into it, this was a longer term goal, but i sold my dirtbike the other day which freed up a few pennies for me to spend, So tomorrow im picking up VS SS 304, loom, ecu and starter motor, And then next week im picking up a CRS turbo pattern to toyota W series hydraulic clutch bellhousing I now have a list of parts i need to collect, V8 K frame, W series box and d/shaft yoke, Flywheel and clutch setup (need to work out what pressure plate, friction plate etc i need) Headers - am after a set of HSV headers as they work well enough VN P/S rack (needed so that the headers will clear) Alloy rad and fans, And an ignition Module - Am going to price up new genuine as the Wife works at Holden Head office, FC RX7 4 pot rotors and VL turbo 290mm rotors (any one who has driven a standard VL will know how crap the factory brakes are) While im collecting those parts I will: (again will try to use as many Genuine parts as i can) Re-seal the Sump, Replace Rocker cover gaskets, Replace crank and rear main seals, Replace water pump, there is probably a heap of shit ive forgotten but ill get there, Sorry for no pic update, will post pic of engine tomorrow 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted December 28, 2014 Share Posted December 28, 2014 A 202 K frame will work too. With the CRS bell housing you need a chev pressure plate and Dyna clutch plate. I think it is a V6 T5 release bearing. I think I have the part numbers in my toolbox if you want me to confirm it all. Flywheel is easy to get from Trademe brand new. These parts alone will set you back about a grand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
f100_dreamin Posted December 28, 2014 Author Share Posted December 28, 2014 Yeah if you could get me the part numbers that would be awesome, hopefully get a good price on parts (am in the trade so have some good contacts) have got a flywheel from my friend so that's sorted, Also, when I picked the engine up, it turned out that the guy was wrecking a VN V8 wagon, So (once he has removed them) im grabbing the K frame, P/S rack and lines, Headers, and a throttle cable, and I've heard from another mate that thinks he has the alternator bracket, and a P/S pump so going good in my parts collecting now, Anyway enough talk, here's some pic's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr.wylde Posted December 28, 2014 Share Posted December 28, 2014 very nice. its gonna be sweet car mate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
f100_dreamin Posted December 30, 2014 Author Share Posted December 30, 2014 Cheers mate, I now have my K frame, VN rack and lines, throttle cable, p/s pump bracket, and alternator. And will be picking my p/s pump and alt bracket in the new week or two! At this point everything has fallen together quite fast and easy, I've pretty much only got gearbox parts left to collect! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted January 7, 2015 Share Posted January 7, 2015 Here you go matey, items 4 and 5 are the part numbers (clutch plate was $150ish and pressure plate was $290ish) I'll hit up Keltik about what part number I got from him for the release bearing which was around $90ish - I know it was genuine Holden part - but I can't remember if it was the V8 or V6 one I used. The 2 in this picture on the right are what I went from - the one on the far right is what I used (I think) and that is a V8 release bearing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nickrock Posted January 7, 2015 Share Posted January 7, 2015 Looks like a bnt receipt I think I paid 200ish for complete 3.3 commodore clutch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
f100_dreamin Posted January 8, 2015 Author Share Posted January 8, 2015 Cheers for that mate, Got my gearbox sorted, put a deposit down on a W59 that I'll pick up on the 24th!! Also scored an alternator from Zebra for $45 so I'll slap a couple of bearings an brushes into that (and it will still owe me the same as an unknown 2nd hand one from trademe) and it will be all good to go, Ran an errand for an engineer friend the other day in exchange for him making the brackets I need to run FC rx7 4 pots on the front (along with V8/Turbo 290mm rotors) so am keeping my eyes out for a set of callipers, hopefully this will provide a good pedal feel with the 30e booster and master, as the Mazda stuff is designed to run off a 13/16th master and the 30e one is 15/16th. If not I'll grab a VS plastic booster and VT master as it's a well documented upgrade from the factory vl stuff I've stripped the engine down to be re-gasketed, so today I took the sump, rocker covers and timing cover to work an put them in the turbo wash. Man I love the way that cleans years of grime off!, so I'll grab some engine enamel an finish off the rattle can rebuild. Wifey came through with some good prices on the genuine stuff I needed Full engine gasket set $64+ Water pump $60+ Thermostat $10+ 90 degree hose from water pump to inlet manifold $8+ So that should all be here sometime next week an ill slap it all back together Spoke to my auto sparky the other day an confirmed him to do the wiring. While I could do it myself, I've decided to get him to do it as he will have it done in half the time and he's gonna remove all the stuff from the rb30 loom I don't need, and make it look like the injected motor loom has been put there from factory, Now it's just a game of "hurry up and wait" while I collect the last big pieces: clutch, driveshaft, radiator and bellhouse (which I'll be grabbing from my mate in feb) and then work out what small niggly bits I need!!! 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 Looks like a bnt receipt I think I paid 200ish for complete 3.3 commodore clutch I wish mine was that cheap. Blardy V8s. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shakotom Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 I'm in the process of doing the VT master swap on my VK. Looks like a bolt up affair. I've also gone with VZ front brakes (2 pot thick disc) I found that on track days my standard brakes sucked balls at getting rid of heat. And tge way I looked at it is they an haul up a much heavier and quicker car so hould be better (cheaper option for me then rx7) Guy I bought some parts off had a VL calais with the rx7 front brakes and inch master and he raved on about how they are awsome so that should be a good improvement! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 Thanks to Keltik I now have the part number for the release bearing, 92038666 Cost about $90 odd. Genuine Holden part number Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
f100_dreamin Posted January 9, 2015 Author Share Posted January 9, 2015 Fantastic cheers for that mate. Yeah the reason I've gone for the rx7 callipers over the vt stuff is the rotor thickness issue, vt stuff is designed for 28mm thick rotor. And you can't get vl rotors in 28mm only 22mm and so there always the concern that once you go past half way the pads could fall out. The only way I could go to thicker rotors is to go to aftermarket hubs and separate rotors Rx7 callipers are designed to be used with a 22mm thick rotor so was a cheaper/easier option for me, and there's a reasonable range of higher quality aftermarket pads (there maybe for vt stuff but I've never looked into it haha) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 I have the bigger VP rotors and callipers on the front of my Commy - they are a direct bolt on. Even onto 4 cylinder struts (which mine are) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
f100_dreamin Posted January 11, 2015 Author Share Posted January 11, 2015 Oh ok, I gather it brakes great? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 It's pretty sweet. I wouldn't trust my life on them after 3 laps of Bathurst at speed but for the street they are entirely adequate. They work sweet with the stock VH m/cylnder which is a 15/16" bore I have a VP disc brake rear end also so a full brake upgrade but still using the stock m/cyl. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
f100_dreamin Posted January 12, 2015 Author Share Posted January 12, 2015 oh ok, well ill keep that in mind, ive already got the brackets under way so ill persevere for now, but a disc brake rear will be something i keep my eyes out for, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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