Truenotch Posted September 26, 2018 Author Share Posted September 26, 2018 17 minutes ago, peteretep said: man thats legit you got that stuff rewound hey @Kimjon you should talk to markku about getting the wajax coils rewound. I never found anyone to do it, but could make the engine run without a battery @Kimjon - google Ken Cairns Electrical and his phone number will come up. He works out of his home garage in Dinsdale and is a good old dude. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truenotch Posted September 27, 2018 Author Share Posted September 27, 2018 Yaaay, new parts day again! Bought a few bits to repair the slippy clutch. New frictions and intermediate plate. This beast has TWO WHOLE friction plates. Also bought a new actuator arm mechanism: At the same time I got a push rod, a ball bearing and a clutch cable. And a nice new clutch lever to replace my knobless one: Drained the oil and got started on disassembly: Lucky I did as I found the main kickstart circlip had lost its ends! This takes all the load when the Kickstart engages... I also got a new throttle cable and a set of points. I was able to make a hybrid of the old and new 2-1 cables to suit my new carb.... Things are lining up well for a weekend hoon? Albeit without a muffler on the spanny . 5 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Truenotch Posted September 28, 2018 Author Popular Post Share Posted September 28, 2018 Started refitting the engine: Mounted the spanny - the header is a bit long, but it’s as close as I could get without the kickstart hitting the spanny. Spot welded the broke headlight bracket back into place: And fitted W clips to stop the light flopping all over the show: It’s getting there! For some reason I can’t get spark out of it... I suspect the coil is toast - luckily I’ve got another one on the way. Hopefully it turns up early next week! I also don’t have a muffler yet... it might be loud for the first few runs . 12 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Truenotch Posted September 29, 2018 Author Popular Post Share Posted September 29, 2018 Success!!! It’s definitely loud.... 9 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris.QCR Posted September 29, 2018 Share Posted September 29, 2018 Rad !!! Chuck a stinger out the back of that spanny and win Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Truenotch Posted September 29, 2018 Author Popular Post Share Posted September 29, 2018 2 hours ago, Chris.QCR said: Rad !!! Chuck a stinger out the back of that spanny and win Hah! It's getting a muffler. Even the people at the gang house across the street were shaking their heads at me . After a week of fretting I figured out the reason it lost spark... It was because the flywheel magnets were touching the lighting stator. I knew it would be something simple! So the stator winding was probably never the main issue, but the dodgy part of the ignition source coil is fixed anyway. Stoked to get to the bottom of it! Threw in the biggest jet that @Raizer provided and went for a few hoons. It bogs massively at full throttle and doesn't pull up to high revs because of the rich mixture. Goes pretty well up to 3/4 throttle though. It sounds great when you blip the throttle! It's got this old dirtbike muffler temporarily. Seems to work well. 12 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truenotch Posted October 4, 2018 Author Share Posted October 4, 2018 I’ve been mucking around with the tuning on this but it’s still not pulling all the way through the revs. So I got carried away measuring port timing, squish gap, compression ratio etc: Lifted it onto a table to save the knees of my jeans: The results are interesting: 182deg of exhaust duration and 144deg of inlet/transfer duration according to my super accurate paper dial gauge. This means that I should be able to deck the top of the cylinder a bit to get my correct squish gap. I was worried that my 0.9mm adapter/spacer might have thrown the port timing out, which would mean decking the bottom of the cylinder instead. I’ve also recently learned about how to set ignition timing with points, so I’ll set the timing right while I'm there. 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLIZZO Posted October 4, 2018 Share Posted October 4, 2018 10 hours ago, Truenotch said: I’ve also recently learned about how to set ignition timing with points, so I’ll set the timing right while I'm there. grab a new set of points while your at it man, makes a huge difference, if you completely disassemble the points that are on it at the moment you will likely see some big pitting holes in the centre of the tungsten or whatever diamond spec hardness that shit is and will likely be slightly sharkstoothed as well. points are generally very cheap (sub $30) and are a consumable part that isnt replaces as often as they should. also condenser can cause missing and shit at high revs, unsure if yours is attached to the coil or the points, but probably another part thats worth replacing to get it running mint. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truenotch Posted October 4, 2018 Author Share Posted October 4, 2018 1 hour ago, BLIZZO said: grab a new set of points while your at it man, makes a huge difference, if you completely disassemble the points that are on it at the moment you will likely see some big pitting holes in the centre of the tungsten or whatever diamond spec hardness that shit is and will likely be slightly sharkstoothed as well. points are generally very cheap (sub $30) and are a consumable part that isnt replaces as often as they should. also condenser can cause missing and shit at high revs, unsure if yours is attached to the coil or the points, but probably another part thats worth replacing to get it running mint. Yep, I'm onto it here. Fitted a new set of points after getting the source coil rewound . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truenotch Posted October 5, 2018 Author Share Posted October 5, 2018 Got the seat re-covered thanks to @64valiant. Dropped my cylinder off for machining this afternoon. I decided to concert back to 50cc until it’s back.... WOW, the 50cc setup goes way better than the 63cc kit does... hopefully everything comes right after machining. 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xsinclairx Posted October 6, 2018 Share Posted October 6, 2018 Whats the carb that you're running? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted October 6, 2018 Share Posted October 6, 2018 15 minutes ago, xsinclairx said: Whats the carb that you're running? Polini CP 19mm clamp on. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truenotch Posted October 6, 2018 Author Share Posted October 6, 2018 1 hour ago, xsinclairx said: Whats the carb that you're running? 1 hour ago, Raizer said: Polini CP 19mm clamp on. That. Took it for some test hoons with the 50cc cylinder today. Managed a top speed of 83kph on the GPS which isn’t too bad. Rode it out to @mark105‘s place and it was going well.... until the way home. It stopped in Ohaupo and I couldn’t get it going again. Will pull it down tomorrow and figure out what happened. 3 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steelies Posted October 6, 2018 Share Posted October 6, 2018 Awesome! Could be worth throwing a stub exhaust on there to sort motor tuning then seeing what the differences are with the chamber fitted, then mess with that? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truenotch Posted October 6, 2018 Author Share Posted October 6, 2018 15 hours ago, Steelies said: Awesome! Could be worth throwing a stub exhaust on there to sort motor tuning then seeing what the differences are with the chamber fitted, then mess with that? That's a good idea. I'd been wondering if the chamber was causing bad things to happen in the mid/high rpm, so I'll give it a go when the 65cc kit is back from the machine shop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truenotch Posted October 6, 2018 Author Share Posted October 6, 2018 RIP 50cc cylinder: looks like it lost a wrist pin clip which gouged its way out... the rod and everything inside the crank case looks fine and there’s a small ding in the head. This 65cc kit better start working better, plan B just flew out the window . 1 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted October 6, 2018 Share Posted October 6, 2018 GUTS you might consider teflon buttons rather than clips next time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steelies Posted October 7, 2018 Share Posted October 7, 2018 What do buttons do if they pass ports? Or do they not. I recall sticking with clips in the Villiers for this reason /2t tune thread 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truenotch Posted October 7, 2018 Author Share Posted October 7, 2018 8 hours ago, tortron said: GUTS you might consider teflon buttons rather than clips next time Buttons sound interesting. I'm planning on using better clips though. The one that fell out was a single ring with no tab to grab when installing/removing it and I'd bent it slightly getting it out. It wasn't 100% seated in its groove but I decided to run it anyway... and then it decided to exit stage left. Not going to do that again . 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truenotch Posted October 8, 2018 Author Share Posted October 8, 2018 Fitted a kick stand from @Yowzer's A100 parts hoard. I was getting sick of always using the centre stand - this will be much more suitable for parking on grass around the east coast. Somehow it feels more like a "real motorbike" when it's leaning on the kick stand: Gave the exhaust a quick coat of black: Cleaned up the original head. It had a bit of a ding from the clip failure, but has cleaned up OK. I'll run these back to back and decide which to use once the cylinder is back from machining. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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