Toggle switches to a push to start

[milkchoclety]

Hello this is my first question of what will probably be many to come for my KE20.

To make a long story short, my ignition chamber has crapped out and need to know how to set up a series of toggle switches and a push switch in order to start. I have searched Google for wiring schematics and other forums etc. but I'm still not 100% sure on which wires to connect to the toggles.

I want to have them set up so that they replicate the ignition: one switch is acc, the next is engine power(?) and then push button to wind the engine. I have managed to get the steering lock disabled, so that is not a problem.

Sorry if I'm not being clear enough but if you need more info or pics let me know and it would be great if you could help me out! Thanks in advance

[Avenga]

I use something like that on my PC sim racing rig.

 

Main switch is the ignition and the button is a starter.

 

 

 

here is a diagram of how you would do it in a car.

 

[tortron]

In my old cars its even simpler

Starter has its own circuit so you can turn it over even if the key is off

ign switch is only ever on or off and only controls the "go" parts of the car

accessorys are always live. i.e headlamps and sidelights (brake lights only work when the car is turned on)

[Seedy Al]

If you take the ignition switch off the back of the barrel you should be able to figure out what wires do wgat pretty quick with a test ligjt. Slash probably even labeled. But teah. There will be a constant power to the switch. Ie. Batt. So once you find that with the test light turn the ignition till you fund the next power. Thats acc. Then again for run. And the last should be starter. Or use an ohm meter to test between the batt wire and the others.

That probably makes no sense.

[downtrail]

May sound silly but why not just replace it with another unit? pull it apart put it back together just like new. then atleast you have a small security feature of the steering lock. 

[ajg193]

How do we know the car isn't stolen?

[tortron]

because a car thief would know which wires to join up 

[unhuman]

I use something like that on my PC sim racing rig.

 

Got any more photos of your rig? Looks like it puts mine to shame.

[Avenga]

Got any more photos of your rig? Looks like it puts mine to shame.

 

Yup. Here are some more photos.

 

This is my rig in it's current form. It is always a work in progress. 

 

This is it in my F1 configuration. I have quick release steering wheels so I can switch over to a BMW GT3 rim for my rally stuff.

 

 

 

This is sort of my POV while racing. I sit a bit lower but the camera isn't wide enough angle so I needed to take the photo from above the seat.

 

 

I just added a GS-4 seat which simulates g-forces while cornering and braking etc.

 

 

Here is a close up of my gauge cluster

 

 

I use a hydraulic handbrake and sequential shifter when I go rallying

 

 

I have 8 transducers in different places around my rig which reproduces the vibrations you feel in a real car. The are positional so if I run over a ripple strip with my left front wheel then the left front of my rig will shake. In this photo you can see the one on my shifter which does engine vibrations and gear shift effects and in the background my front left shaker which does the suspension effects. I also have ones on the pedals, under the seat and on my sequential shifter

 

 

Here are some videos of my rig in action

 

 

 

 

Here are the full specs of my rig

 

GT Omega Evo race cockpit

SimXperience GS-4 motion seat.

Fanatec Clubsport Wheel with BMW M3 GT2 & Formula rims

Fanatec Clubsport V2 Pedals

DSD CSW dual button boxes

DSD hydraulic handbrake

DSD Short Shift Pro-Comp Sequential Shifter

Logitech G27 H-Shifter running through a Basher Boards FL2 USB adapter (to be replaced by a Fanatec clubsport shifter SQ when they become available in New Zealand)

DYI digital handbrake

1 x Buttkicker Advance, 5 x Buttkicker Mini LFE SE and 2 x Aura AST-2B-4 Pro Tactile Transducer with Simvibe

3 x Kool Sound LX-2450 2 x 450 Watt RMS Amplifiers

Buttkicker BKA300-4 1 x 300 Watt RMS Amplifier

Logitech 5.1 Z906 speakers

TrackIR Pro 5

Siminstruments Dash

Symprojects Pro-gauge and Rev Burner running 8 Autogauge gauges

 

My PC Specs are

 

Intel i7 3770k 3.5GHz

32GB RAM

Nvidia Geforce GTX 680

3x Asus 27" monitors running in surround and 1x HP 24" screen for telemetry data

512GB SSD + 2x 1TB RAID 1 HDD

[JoKer]

whoa

[UTERUS]

Holy fuck you went balls deep into a sim rig.

[CaMpylobacter]

holy shit that blew my mind

[The Bronze]

mennn-tal. that's a setup!

[Bling]

Crikey! That's an impressive setup!!

[Avenga]

Thanks guys.

 

I have spent the last 6 months building my rig. Took me ages to import all the parts.

 

I should probably make a build thread under the "Other Projects" section.

 

I took heaps of progress shots as I went along. The same guys who built my Avenger did all the fabrication on my rig.

 

I have one or two upgrades to go and then I can get back to my V8 Avenger.

[fourfingapete]

shit..I thought my triple screens and g27 was ok..... This is the shit. Do you run rfactor or just ps/xbox spec?

[Avenga]

Thanks. This started off as just a G27 with triple monitors but I sort of got a bit carried away somewhere along the track.

 

Yeah, I play rFactor 1 & 2, Assetto Corsa, Dirt 2 & 3. Just preordered the new Grid game. I also play Euro Truck Simulator 2, got to love those big trucks

 

At the moment my favourite sims are Game Stock Car, Formula Truck and rFactor mods with oldschool cars like Historic GT and DRM Revival. 

[fourfingapete]

Nice.. I run simracingnz.com  using rfactor 1 with mostly speedway mods .....Try next car game.....massive demo derby game in beta version... hella fun!

[Avenga]

Sweet. I have always wanted to try my hand at speedway. got any mods you would recommend?

 

I have Next Car Game. I don't play it that much because it doesn't support motion or any of my gauges. Here is a video of Next Car Game I recorded a while back.