clown_dog Posted April 9, 2014 Share Posted April 9, 2014 I have one as a reference but need 15 more... Does anyone know where to find these. Bit of an old style wheel bolt. Would love to buy some so I can finally fit my wheels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
escortwags Posted April 10, 2014 Share Posted April 10, 2014 these guys http://www.davie.co.nz/ Are the stockists for these http://www.niceproducts.com.au/catalogues/wheel/bolts.php 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clown_dog Posted April 10, 2014 Author Share Posted April 10, 2014 these guys http://www.davie.co.nz/ Are the stockists for these http://www.niceproducts.com.au/catalogues/wheel/bolts.php Yuss! The man. Cheers bro. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sparkle Posted April 10, 2014 Share Posted April 10, 2014 Plz polish them until theyre gleaming when you do eventually put them on. Also ask your tyre guy to put the weights inside the rim. Ohhh yeaaah tridents. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xsspeed Posted April 10, 2014 Share Posted April 10, 2014 wards or tidents? http://img593.imageshack.us/img593/2491/wardalloyssmall.jpg http://www.simplyclassicsnz.com/.tmp/vehicles/images/355x267/padded/355x267/FFF/4f7d248b02e7d-SANY0182.JPG /I know they are both essentially knock offs Concur re polish up and weight on inside plz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vivaspeed Posted April 10, 2014 Share Posted April 10, 2014 They look like Wards. I have a similar set at home, and some on a car. You can also get them 'fixed' to run a tapered insert and run normal bolts/nuts. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clown_dog Posted April 10, 2014 Author Share Posted April 10, 2014 Plz polish them until theyre gleaming when you do eventually put them on. Also ask your tyre guy to put the weights inside the rim. Ohhh yeaaah tridents. Haha that's the plan. I know I don't know who thought it was a good idea to put the weights there. Sigh.. Will get that fixed when the tyres go on. wards or tidents? Honestly, not sure. Look like ward atlas... but no real name markings. Heres a pic on a rough test fit. Fiat panda FTW. I know I know. Poke and stretch. I'm a bad person. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xsspeed Posted April 10, 2014 Share Posted April 10, 2014 I'm more worried about the fiat panda you sicko lol /keen for a panda van tbh they are awesome haha 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clown_dog Posted April 10, 2014 Author Share Posted April 10, 2014 I'm more worried about the fiat panda you sicko lol /keen for a panda van tbh they are awesome haha Haha yeah they are! Pretty sure it's just a different boot that you attach to turn it into a van. Wish mine was a 4x4 though At least it has the 5speed and twin sunnies! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted April 10, 2014 Share Posted April 10, 2014 Just buy a set of shank nuts and then some threaded rod and locktite the rod into the nuts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azzurro Posted April 10, 2014 Share Posted April 10, 2014 ^ bad idea, as even 'proper' bolt-to-stud conversions are shit, but to make it less bad i would locktight/molten metal the allthread into the shank nut (to make a shank bolt) as there is way more thread to catch (20mm on a nut vs about 12mm for the hubs) Also they are Ward Atlas, so will polish up real nice. Good to see some photos of the Panda, Mr C Dog! Gonna put some flares on that and ddrop it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted April 10, 2014 Share Posted April 10, 2014 That is what I said lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clown_dog Posted April 10, 2014 Author Share Posted April 10, 2014 ^ bad idea, as even 'proper' bolt-to-stud conversions are shit, but to make it less bad i would locktight/molten metal the allthread into the shank nut (to make a shank bolt) as there is way more thread to catch (20mm on a nut vs about 12mm for the hubs) Also they are Ward Atlas, so will polish up real nice. Good to see some photos of the Panda, Mr C Dog! Gonna put some flares on that and ddrop it? Agreed. I want it safe. Not dodgy. The place recommended above are already in contact with me so hopefully find the right stuff soon! Yeah was thinking flares and some PI springs for a 40mm drop.. Will need to buy overseas. Would love coilovers like my other car but there's nothing off the shelf available and I don't want to have to cert it. For reference. I stretched 135/70/r13 onto a 6j wide wheel. This is what it looks like. It was my spare tire. Thought it was a 155 which is what I'll go with as then I can just swap my current tyres. This is hopefully what I'll end up with 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azzurro Posted April 10, 2014 Share Posted April 10, 2014 That is what I said lol. ill shank your nuts! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted April 10, 2014 Share Posted April 10, 2014 Swoon! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted April 10, 2014 Share Posted April 10, 2014 Just buy a set of shank nuts and then some threaded rod and locktite the rod into the nuts. ^ bad idea, as even 'proper' bolt-to-stud conversions are shit, but to make it less bad i would locktight/molten metal the allthread into the shank nut (to make a shank bolt) as there is way more thread to catch (20mm on a nut vs about 12mm for the hubs) Also they are Ward Atlas, so will polish up real nice. Good to see some photos of the Panda, Mr C Dog! Gonna put some flares on that and ddrop it? HOLY FUCK NO DO NOT USE ALLTHREAD/THREADED ROD jesus guys, that stuff is made of monkey metal. of all things that need to be made of proper decent high tensile and high fatigue life steel wheel bolts and studs are number one! if you can buy the proper shank bolts do that. otherwise use proper studs that are made for the purpose with a unthreaded section that bottoms out into the hub + high strength loctite. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clown_dog Posted April 10, 2014 Author Share Posted April 10, 2014 HOLY FUCK NO DO NOT USE ALLTHREAD/THREADED ROD jesus guys, that stuff is made of monkey metal. of all things that need to be made of proper decent high tensile and high fatigue life steel wheel bolts and studs are number one! if you can buy the proper shank bolts do that. otherwise use proper studs that are made for the purpose with a unthreaded section that bottoms out into the hub + high strength loctite. So I got a reply from Davie Motors. "Hello Well we have something, the closest one we have is: Part# TM441 (chrome finish) Hex Head Length 22mm Shank Length 18mm Thread Length 25mm Wrench Size 21mm This bit you may not like, the threaded part is actually separate and can be unscrewed, can supply a longer threaded part which would give you 44mm of thread. (obviously these would need to be threadlocked in!) " That last bit. Is it still safe? Here is the Catalogue... http://www.davie.co.nz/?id=202 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted April 10, 2014 Share Posted April 10, 2014 Tom you realise you can buy high tensile all thread aye? Ol' Barry did it to his car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted April 10, 2014 Share Posted April 10, 2014 I thought it was obvious that you would use high tensile rod, but perhaps it isn't. If you are a nervous nancy you could just buy some 12.9 bolts and cut the heads off, that would work just as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted April 10, 2014 Share Posted April 10, 2014 the problem with threaded rod is that most of the stuff you get is rubbish (i.e most people would think galv rubbish from bunnings) and I would be a little dubious even on the high tensile stuff as often while it has a high UTS/yield it is not good in fatigue because of how the strength has been acheived (kind of alloying elements or type of heat treament) and how the threads were formed cold rolled/hot rolled. something used to hold a wheel on needs to have a good fatigue life because of the cyclic loading. hence just use the right thing/its not hard to get the right thing. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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