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matteybeans 1978 rt104 corona


Matteybean

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  • 1 year later...

I think they need to go around the full arch. 

as is it looks ATM as if there not made for that car etc 

personally not a fan of black flares on your car but i see the big wheel gap issue.

Perhaps go up a profile in tyre size? 

also are these separate body and chassis? could possibly drop the body down some more with lower made body mounts.  

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12 hours ago, piazzanoob said:

I think they need to go around the full arch. 

as is it looks ATM as if there not made for that car etc 

personally not a fan of black flares on your car but i see the big wheel gap issue.

Perhaps go up a profile in tyre size? 

also are these separate body and chassis? could possibly drop the body down some more with lower made body mounts.  

 

12 hours ago, 63Ragtop said:

I would agree, which does surprise me. Usually flares on flares look fucking shit.

I'd be more inclined to rethink the tyre/rim combo? one of the things I really like about your car is how clean and uncluttered it is.

 

Yeah i didn't want that full arch look i just wanted to extend them down.

I could go different tire rim combo but what i want would see me 3/4k with tires and i dont really want to go down that road

 

Hmmmm decisions decisions 

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Yeah ill take some more photos this weekend from a distance.. may even swap diff. Another reason for the flares is because im currently running crap spec 185/50 and rear is toyo t1rs 225/40.

I want to run some toyo t1r 195/55 which are 10mm bigger in overall diameter and width. The tread will extend past the arch and i will fail warrants/police harrasement

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For the love of all that is holy, fuck no. 

No no no no no no. Never ever mount a flare low on the arch to make the arch line lower, it is THE cardinal sin, pioneered by any number of shitbox DX Corollas running up and down Colombo St on a Friday night in Chch when cruising times were good.

If you're gonna run bolt ons, do it properly and run them where the arch is supposed to. I'd run a bigger tyre to close up the arch gap. 

TL;DR please please don't do that. Reminds me of this shit;

8207019599_705517181c_b.jpg

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  • 5 months later...

Coronas have F series in them but i think main case would of been axel tramp, Heavy 9" wheel n shortened axel.

Yeah ive got almost everything i need bar ecu which will be the stinger. The 18regu efi fetch good coin overseas as they becoming harder n harder to find. 

Yeah still keen on boost

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  • 2 years later...

I experimented with water injection on my CA18ET. Ended up trying E85 in the water injection system. But the flow rate was inconsistent. Replaced it with an EFI pump and a small fuel injector.

It worked really well. It only came on at higher boost levels, it allowed the 'normal' fuel to be reduced because of the added E85 and the timing increased. It dropped the intake temp by quite a bit. Went from 150kw to 170kw without changing anything else. It used fuck all E85. I think I worked out that if I was on boost 100% of the time, the 5L of E85 would last about as long as the 40L 'normal' fuel.

Buuuuut something went wrong, maybe the E85 injector blocked, or probably fuel distribution was uneven between the cylinders because of where the injector located in the intake pipe. So I got real bad detonation at the track and destroyed the engine.

If I had to do it again I'd want some knock detection. Or run a 2nd set of injectors to ensure even distribution.

I replaced the engine with a CA18DET. Made 190kw on less boost with normal fuel.

 

 

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5 hours ago, Adoom said:

I experimented with water injection on my CA18ET. Ended up trying E85 in the water injection system. But the flow rate was inconsistent. Replaced it with an EFI pump and a small fuel injector.

It worked really well. It only came on at higher boost levels, it allowed the 'normal' fuel to be reduced because of the added E85 and the timing increased. It dropped the intake temp by quite a bit. Went from 150kw to 170kw without changing anything else. It used fuck all E85. I think I worked out that if I was on boost 100% of the time, the 5L of E85 would last about as long as the 40L 'normal' fuel.

Buuuuut something went wrong, maybe the E85 injector blocked, or probably fuel distribution was uneven between the cylinders because of where the injector located in the intake pipe. So I got real bad detonation at the track and destroyed the engine.

If I had to do it again I'd want some knock detection. Or run a 2nd set of injectors to ensure even distribution.

I replaced the engine with a CA18DET. Made 190kw on less boost with normal fuel.

 

 

Yeah I read some guys using e85 but having issues with blockages same as you.

I plan to to run it pre charger to cool it down and should help atomize and hopefully distribute evenly. The kits I was looking at like the one from snow come with a booster controller and use a map sensor to come on when desired at whatever rate ramping up to on full

 

From what I've read 50/50 water methanol is the go

 The boost controller also has an alarm when the tank starts to get low because yep if it runs out or blocks see ya later motor!

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If the Atom has enough spare inputs/outputs, you can us that to control the water injection and you don't need a separate controller.

Since the Atom already knows the inlet temp and the boost pressure from the map sensor, you probably just need one Digital Out to turn the water injection sprayer on.

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pre charger will also increase the sealing and efficiency (more boost) and help keep the rotors cool (no teflon delamination worries)

 

real pleased the kit went to such a nice car and one that i can follow! cant wait to hear it whining away at a proper boost level, guess i should update my build thread with the new forced induction kit in progress so people dont think i just gave up on it

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