chris r Posted November 21, 2016 Share Posted November 21, 2016 I might steal that idea for one of my cars 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matteybean Posted November 21, 2016 Author Share Posted November 21, 2016 No problem let me no if you need any copper always got shorts lying around. I'm in Auckland. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pbaines Posted July 18, 2018 Share Posted July 18, 2018 I think they look right at home at the end of the arch! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
63Ragtop Posted July 18, 2018 Share Posted July 18, 2018 I would agree, which does surprise me. Usually flares on flares look fucking shit. I'd be more inclined to rethink the tyre/rim combo? one of the things I really like about your car is how clean and uncluttered it is. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piazzanoob Posted July 18, 2018 Share Posted July 18, 2018 I think they need to go around the full arch. as is it looks ATM as if there not made for that car etc personally not a fan of black flares on your car but i see the big wheel gap issue. Perhaps go up a profile in tyre size? also are these separate body and chassis? could possibly drop the body down some more with lower made body mounts. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matteybean Posted July 18, 2018 Author Share Posted July 18, 2018 12 hours ago, piazzanoob said: I think they need to go around the full arch. as is it looks ATM as if there not made for that car etc personally not a fan of black flares on your car but i see the big wheel gap issue. Perhaps go up a profile in tyre size? also are these separate body and chassis? could possibly drop the body down some more with lower made body mounts. 12 hours ago, 63Ragtop said: I would agree, which does surprise me. Usually flares on flares look fucking shit. I'd be more inclined to rethink the tyre/rim combo? one of the things I really like about your car is how clean and uncluttered it is. Yeah i didn't want that full arch look i just wanted to extend them down. I could go different tire rim combo but what i want would see me 3/4k with tires and i dont really want to go down that road Hmmmm decisions decisions Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matteybean Posted July 18, 2018 Author Share Posted July 18, 2018 Heres a photo of a corona wagon Very similar flare position I guess i need to park on road and test fit and take some photos from a distance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldrx7 Posted July 19, 2018 Share Posted July 19, 2018 I recon they could look good aye, hard to tell with the close up pics but the black flares with the black front grill looks good in the front on pic. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matteybean Posted July 19, 2018 Author Share Posted July 19, 2018 Yeah ill take some more photos this weekend from a distance.. may even swap diff. Another reason for the flares is because im currently running crap spec 185/50 and rear is toyo t1rs 225/40. I want to run some toyo t1r 195/55 which are 10mm bigger in overall diameter and width. The tread will extend past the arch and i will fail warrants/police harrasement Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snoozin Posted July 20, 2018 Share Posted July 20, 2018 For the love of all that is holy, fuck no. No no no no no no. Never ever mount a flare low on the arch to make the arch line lower, it is THE cardinal sin, pioneered by any number of shitbox DX Corollas running up and down Colombo St on a Friday night in Chch when cruising times were good. If you're gonna run bolt ons, do it properly and run them where the arch is supposed to. I'd run a bigger tyre to close up the arch gap. TL;DR please please don't do that. Reminds me of this shit; 5 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldrx7 Posted January 13, 2019 Share Posted January 13, 2019 diff upgrade planned eventually you recon then bro? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matteybean Posted January 14, 2019 Author Share Posted January 14, 2019 Nah prob not haha. That diff lasted a good 4 years. Im guessing its snapped where the spline was shortened. Wont no until i get it home n have a proper look though. Its only an 18rg 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldrx7 Posted January 14, 2019 Share Posted January 14, 2019 Fair enough - Wasn't sure if the corona's were known for weak diffs/axels or not. Still the long term turbo plans? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matteybean Posted January 15, 2019 Author Share Posted January 15, 2019 Coronas have F series in them but i think main case would of been axel tramp, Heavy 9" wheel n shortened axel. Yeah ive got almost everything i need bar ecu which will be the stinger. The 18regu efi fetch good coin overseas as they becoming harder n harder to find. Yeah still keen on boost 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adoom Posted February 13, 2021 Share Posted February 13, 2021 I experimented with water injection on my CA18ET. Ended up trying E85 in the water injection system. But the flow rate was inconsistent. Replaced it with an EFI pump and a small fuel injector. It worked really well. It only came on at higher boost levels, it allowed the 'normal' fuel to be reduced because of the added E85 and the timing increased. It dropped the intake temp by quite a bit. Went from 150kw to 170kw without changing anything else. It used fuck all E85. I think I worked out that if I was on boost 100% of the time, the 5L of E85 would last about as long as the 40L 'normal' fuel. Buuuuut something went wrong, maybe the E85 injector blocked, or probably fuel distribution was uneven between the cylinders because of where the injector located in the intake pipe. So I got real bad detonation at the track and destroyed the engine. If I had to do it again I'd want some knock detection. Or run a 2nd set of injectors to ensure even distribution. I replaced the engine with a CA18DET. Made 190kw on less boost with normal fuel. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matteybean Posted February 14, 2021 Author Share Posted February 14, 2021 5 hours ago, Adoom said: I experimented with water injection on my CA18ET. Ended up trying E85 in the water injection system. But the flow rate was inconsistent. Replaced it with an EFI pump and a small fuel injector. It worked really well. It only came on at higher boost levels, it allowed the 'normal' fuel to be reduced because of the added E85 and the timing increased. It dropped the intake temp by quite a bit. Went from 150kw to 170kw without changing anything else. It used fuck all E85. I think I worked out that if I was on boost 100% of the time, the 5L of E85 would last about as long as the 40L 'normal' fuel. Buuuuut something went wrong, maybe the E85 injector blocked, or probably fuel distribution was uneven between the cylinders because of where the injector located in the intake pipe. So I got real bad detonation at the track and destroyed the engine. If I had to do it again I'd want some knock detection. Or run a 2nd set of injectors to ensure even distribution. I replaced the engine with a CA18DET. Made 190kw on less boost with normal fuel. Yeah I read some guys using e85 but having issues with blockages same as you. I plan to to run it pre charger to cool it down and should help atomize and hopefully distribute evenly. The kits I was looking at like the one from snow come with a booster controller and use a map sensor to come on when desired at whatever rate ramping up to on full From what I've read 50/50 water methanol is the go The boost controller also has an alarm when the tank starts to get low because yep if it runs out or blocks see ya later motor! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adoom Posted February 14, 2021 Share Posted February 14, 2021 If the Atom has enough spare inputs/outputs, you can us that to control the water injection and you don't need a separate controller. Since the Atom already knows the inlet temp and the boost pressure from the map sensor, you probably just need one Digital Out to turn the water injection sprayer on. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted February 14, 2021 Share Posted February 14, 2021 pre charger will also increase the sealing and efficiency (more boost) and help keep the rotors cool (no teflon delamination worries) real pleased the kit went to such a nice car and one that i can follow! cant wait to hear it whining away at a proper boost level, guess i should update my build thread with the new forced induction kit in progress so people dont think i just gave up on it 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piazzanoob Posted March 17, 2021 Share Posted March 17, 2021 Marketing chemicals in Auckland sell methanol but not sure if they sell in a small amount as normally in a 205 litre drum and goes off if left for too long. Also try STA Parts as they sell race fuels 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matteybean Posted March 17, 2021 Author Share Posted March 17, 2021 Thanks bro yeah ata say all out of stock ill call em and double check tomorrow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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