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ajg193's 1983 KP61 Sprint


ajg193

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5 minutes ago, Sambo said:

I always wanted to convert my old KE70 to efi, just for the blingy manifold (and performance). 

 

Keen to see as many details as possible of the process. 

I'll make another update this weekend. It's mostly done now. I've run the fuel lines, coolant plumbing, sensors etc.

 

I just need to make one bracket to locate the air cleaner, swap the spark plugs, wire the loom and then configure the ecu/run it.

 

Running the fuel lines was actually quite easy as there are factory mounts all over the place. I did run a soft line from the rear to the front though as the fuel feed instead of a hard line, a hard line would probably have been more appropriate and I may change over to one in the future. The soft line is 8 mm internal diameter. The original feed line is being used as the return, 6 mm. I've just Tee-d in the fuel pump feed line next to the tank, hopefully this will allow for fuel to be sucked from the tank. I may run into issues with warm fuel coming back from the rail, but I have a cooler that should just bolt into the system if need be. In the end, the only hole I've had to drill on the car is on the exhaust system to fit the oxygen sensor.

The ECU lives in the front guard (in a dry area above the plastic inner guard), the loom runs in through the hole that the side indicator light wires pass out of the engine bay.

 

One thing of note is that the ignition coil location is different on an EFI setup as the new valve cover's oil filler interferes with the coil. You can either move the coil down to the lower mounting bolt or across to the hole which is filled with a grommet (factory EFI coil location).

 

The air cleaner is off of an EP90/4E-FE Starlet.

 

The fuel filter is a Z200 (same as on 90's commodores) and has barbs on each end and fits perfectly into the factory filter mount.

 

The biggest issue I've run into so far is that the exhaust manifold has a huge hole in it where the exhaust gases are used to heat up the intake manifold on the factory carburetor setup. I blanked this off with a plate of 5-6 mm aluminium but I had to trim it way down in thickness where it goes under the EFI manifold as everything is a really tight fit. I also had to trim off the mounting lugs under the EFI manifold and remove a bit of aluminium in places to get everthing to fit together.

 

Hopefully the blanking plate holds up to the heat of the exhaust, but I guess only time will tell. I would definitely recommend either getting an EFI exhaust manifold or putting headers on.

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  • 1 month later...
On 7/9/2017 at 20:59, ajg193 said:

I've done a little bit of digging.

Here is a list of all KP Starlets with live registration in NZ:

(Click the little arrow to hide this table thing)

Colour, Type, Engine Size, Chassis Number, Engine Number, Year of First NZ Reg, Month of First NZ Reg, Cause of Latest Reg

 

  Reveal hidden contents

 

 

 

HAH!

I found mine. I'm one of 8 1800cc Starlets.

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Great conversion! Loving the graphs. I like economy...  I am waiting to see Roman Dave quip in. 

How did you go about getting those figures. Is it based on calculations using injector open times etc etc? Please explain! :-)

Remember though... nothing beats being a full on Barry and having a notebook in your glovebox with mileage and litres noted down every time you refill the tank. Check speedo accuracy (almost every car I have checked is out by at least 5%, more often 10% to much )  Allow for that and you get real world average consumption. I'm at 9.8L/100km averaged over 18000km with the V6.  I want more.  But that aint bad.

 

Oh and this...

"I was initially having issues with the IAT sensor heat soaking and leaning out the idle, causing the car to stall. This was fixed by changing the settings in the ECU so it completely ignores IAT at idle just uses the coolant temperature as estimated inlet temperature. "

 

What settings did you change to make it ignore IAT at idle?

 

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On ‎13‎/‎10‎/‎2017 at 15:31, ajg193 said:

I wonder how many there are out there that haven't been certed for engine swaps, must be quite a few

Reckon there'll be a lot more uncerted Minis around that came with the 848 or 998 and are now running 1098 or 1275.

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5 hours ago, yoeddynz said:

Great conversion! Loving the graphs. I like economy...  I am waiting to see Roman Dave quip in. 

How did you go about getting those figures. Is it based on calculations using injector open times etc etc? Please explain! :-)

Remember though... nothing beats being a full on Barry and having a notebook in your glovebox with mileage and litres noted down every time you refill the tank. Check speedo accuracy (almost every car I have checked is out by at least 5%, more often 10% to much )  Allow for that and you get real world average consumption. I'm at 9.8L/100km averaged over 18000km with the V6.  I want more.  But that aint bad.

 

Oh and this...

"I was initially having issues with the IAT sensor heat soaking and leaning out the idle, causing the car to stall. This was fixed by changing the settings in the ECU so it completely ignores IAT at idle just uses the coolant temperature as estimated inlet temperature. "

 

What settings did you change to make it ignore IAT at idle?

 

You obviously haven't seen inside my 110% Barry spec glovebox yet. The graphing and records will probably put you into a Barry-overload coma.

 

With my old tyres my odometer was under-reading distance by 6%. Current tyres are bang on.

 

Fuel consumption calculated from what the computer is saying from injector open time (gives value in cc/min). Computer is over estimating the consumption by about 10%  - I'll confirm this at the fuel station once I have used a little more fuel - so the graph is giving corrected fuel consumption. I changed my ignition advance vacuum porting location and this appears to have brought the 50 kph/5th gear consumption down to about 2.9 L/100 km.

 

For the IAT issue I went into the MAT/CLT correction window and set the load around idle to be 100% based off of CLT. In my case that was (50kPa*1000rpm = 50000). When you do this you will have to adjust your VE table at the idle region to give it more fuel when the engine is hot, otherwise it will lean out. By doing it this way the computer basically models the temperature of the inlet air to be exactly that of your coolant - which is somewhat reasonable as the air is generally moving slow enough at idle that it has a chance to warm up to coolant temp, or close to it. You can try with different blending ratios, say 80% if you have issues with your idle mixture varying too much with engine temp, but 100% seems to work fine for me.

 

 

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6 hours ago, ajg193 said:

You obviously haven't seen inside my 110% Barry spec glovebox yet. The graphing and records will probably put you into a Barry-overload coma.

 

With my old tyres my odometer was under-reading distance by 6%. Current tyres are bang on.

 

Fuel consumption calculated from what the computer is saying from injector open time (gives value in cc/min). Computer is over estimating the consumption by about 10%  - I'll confirm this at the fuel station once I have used a little more fuel - so the graph is giving corrected fuel consumption. I changed my ignition advance vacuum porting location and this appears to have brought the 50 kph/5th gear consumption down to about 2.9 L/100 km.

 

For the IAT issue I went into the MAT/CLT correction window and set the load around idle to be 100% based off of CLT. In my case that was (50kPa*1000rpm = 50000). When you do this you will have to adjust your VE table at the idle region to give it more fuel when the engine is hot, otherwise it will lean out. By doing it this way the computer basically models the temperature of the inlet air to be exactly that of your coolant - which is somewhat reasonable as the air is generally moving slow enough at idle that it has a chance to warm up to coolant temp, or close to it. You can try with different blending ratios, say 80% if you have issues with your idle mixture varying too much with engine temp, but 100% seems to work fine for me.

 

 

I have no fucking idea what that all means but I wish you all the best good luck with it. Love the way you've done it all without butchering the shell to buggery.

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Mine's worse. I tried a notebook like that but it was too cunty to fill in. I ended up making a custom fill in the boxes type book with many pages. Even a little dipstick drawing to indicate daily oil level - damn level never changes.

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You gonna be home this weekend? I'm thinking of making a mission up to your part of the world. No door-to-door sales though, I promise! Well I might try and sell you the love of Jesus/Toyota

Just now, yoeddynz said:

Next level barry. I bet you could sell them (to a very limited market..)

 

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  • 2 months later...

Great work on the graphs this makes me happy. 

Sweet economy too! Better than my Echo. Cant beat a light car.

Does your FPR reference intake manifold pressure?

If fpr is not not intake referenced the pressure difference between fuel rail and intake manifold increases with vaccum. So at a given pulsewidth you get more fuel than expected.

Might account for your 10% perhaps. Maybe check what your fuel model in ECU thinks the fpr is doing.

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  • 2 weeks later...

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