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Speeno's Fifty Chebby.


kyteler

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Yea a mild chop on these works well, I agree that the one on the previous page nails it. The chop on this is very mild, 3-4" out of the roof max, just the fact they took the lazy option and didn't make new sail panels. 

 

Yes D lots of work, honestly lots less $$ than the buick to complete though! I am budgeting a couple hundy a week on it which should consistently keep me busy.

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Take a picture of both the front and rear of the head and the tell me the casting number that is under the rocker covers. Heads are the same left and right.

 

You can buy BRAND NEW SBC heads with 2.02" valves including springs etc for cheeeeeeeap from Summit so I wouldn't even fuck with those heads. http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/sum-152123/

Very unlikely they will be fuellies which are the factory 1.94" or 2.02" valve heads - you'll probably have 1.72" or 1.84" valves which are shit and the new heads are less than the cost of rebuilding them.

 

 

 

Looks like that those heads have been ported quite a bit. yuck.

 

post-5913-0-92720300-1385885083.jpg

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Cool yea I figured I could Google things but just been waiting for you to tell me whats up, I'll get some numbers and stuff. I'm going for max cheap so these heads will be staying until it is driving at least, hadn't even noticed any porting! I agree yuck! But yea I have seen alloy stock heads on gumtree for almost no money, god I love how cheap shit is for these. 

 

Next thing is apparently I have to run the short water pump in the cheby for some extra clearance. From my limited SBC knowledge the short pumps are from early motors (60's?). I have to dummy it up and get some measurements because there is 1 million different accessory brackets etc.

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Don't get all Repco "whats the number plate on me" - the difference is just asking for a long or a short SBC water pump. Most are short FYI.

You can fit your fingers (well maybe not your fat greasy greek sausage fingers) between the water pump and the timing cover on long and not on a short.

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Haha, man I was mega keen on rolling it like it is! but It kind of sets me 10 steps backwards bolting everything up to this and then tearing it down again. For example I will be taking the body off the chassis to setup the diff and make the gearbox crossmember, if I don't blast the shell then I will have to take it off a second time to get it done. 

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Heads are 1975-81 262, 267, 305 heads with a 60cc combustion chamber and 1.7" valves etc.

 

The number you use is the 376450 - the date stamp below means they were made 26th April 1978 - so right at the peak of the fuel crisis - ie your heads are pretty much as bad as they get. LOL. Even more shit than a diff that's too wide...

 

I've never seen ports that shape before - they are normally a fairly regular rectangle shape port with radiused corners - that kick in at the top of the port just looks whack as shit.

 

Get some better heads you trollop.

 

Also give me block casting numbers - they are behind the passenger side head next to the bellhousing flange. Should be a 6 or 7 digit number. Lets find out what this motor is cos I doubt it's a 350 unless some dickhead has put really shitty heads on a 350. If so WTF???

 

post-5913-0-17113800-1386827908.jpg

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