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Slugs strip beetle


flyingbrick

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Box is a 002 with a 4.13 r an p, been waiting for diff for 4 months, running a peloquin lsd... Good things take time i guess. Will post a pic of the clutch management setup to help avoid lunching it off the line. Box is geared for around 150mph @7000 rpm in 4th. Its tall gearing but at the hp levels and weight around 850 kgs fully loaded itll pull like feck.

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Sorry do you mean a Crownwheel and Pinion - an R an P doesn't sound right??

 

R an P means Rack and Pinion - like in steering. :D

 

Anyhow sorry for being a nitpicking twerp but awesome build and you should bring this to our drag day in December.

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I'm hanging around US forums too much, Ring and Pinion, steering is still the stock wormy box...

With the clutch management, it looks like this

3202e98aa263219fb3faf25fe1a9867d_zps4801

Basically normal operation no restriction in the line, when the solenoid operates it forces the fluid to return via the adjustable (brake bias) valve. At the moment this is actuated via a switch and a pressure switch on the staging brake. I am changing it so it has a master switch and a first gear micro switch. Adjustable control of clutch engagement, and all I have to do is dump the pedal and it engages without the mega shock.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Been looking/thinking about the intercooler radiator situation. I was planning on running twin oil coolers, one each side of the gearbox, but I had a brainwave today and am thinking maybe I should use one cooler for water.... One less thing to mount up... Coolers are small setrab fan assisted units, just don't know how efficient his would be ? Any ideas ?

Photo shows rough mockup and an idea of size. They are very efficient, but little...

dd81c44111a8e1e2b8d06ddfa2ed5d79_zps5f6f

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as efficient as the might be do they provide enough cooling?  I'm guessing one for gearbox one for engine? or two for engine?

 

by water up front do you mean use water as a secondary circut  to cool the oil? tbh I wouldn't want to add the complication if I could avoid it. 

 

-run two like you have shown

-get one big one and mount it around where you have shown

-get one big one and mount it up front with long large bore lines

-run meth and do without the cooler?

 

keep up the good work anyways/ better see you at meremere in decemeber!

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Ah, good point. Yeah no way in the stinking sulphurous fires of hell is one one those little setrabs going to cut it for cooling the intercooler if you want to street it and have it do any cooling or run more than single digit psi boost. We had to use an entire radiator from a 1.3L laser to cool the w2a in my friends supercharged ls2 landcruiser. Sure roots blower and different/higher duty situation but still cooling compressed air is quite alot of heat rejection. If only we had e85 at the pump........

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I was just trying to limit the amount of shit, and get away from a front mounted radiator and carving up the spare wheel well too much. Meth is a bit out of the park in this incarnation, E85 is where this is going with a street tune on 98.

Radiator I have is a 600 x 200 x 60 thick, 20l water tank, boost will be well into double digits by the time it's done. Bit of time on the dyno will tell I guess.

Will flag the setrab idea. Maybe water/meth injection would be an option, that's what the green bros are using on their work hack.

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oh wow just realised I mis read the first post. yeah sorry I dont think the setrabs will cut it all (do you have a model number maybe could check their rated heat transfer to confirm) but 600x200x60 should do the trick. water meth is definitely worth considering  esp with 98 tunes and is what I plan to do with my pile.

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Specs are. Dimensions

FP119M22i 8.27 5.75 5.50 2.3/2.7 16,000-19,000 BTU per hour

The last engine made 200 on the dyno an one of these kept the temps under control in a wet sump with about 5 lt oil in the system. This one will run about 10 l in the system, the extra oil volume plus potentially a peak of 500 hp should work ok I reckon ? Also when not on boost static comp is around 8:1 ( old heap was 10.5:1)

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yeah they  should be fine for cooliong the engine I was thinking you were thinking about using them to cool the water for the intercooler?

 

they just wouldn't flow enough for a w2a system. if the water side doesn't circulate fast enough you get inlet air temp spikes as the water in the cooler is heated up before it can get out - even though the water is still cooler than the air by alot every degree it is warmer reduces that temperature difference which is driving the heat transfer. the other big thing is ensureing you can bleed all the air out of the water circut, bascially we blew up an LS2 because it got air pockets in the cooler and the pump wasn't at the low point, which then cavitated when it became airlocked. 

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Was thinking of using one for water, but I see the error if my ways !! Tank and pump will be at the low point of the system ( where rear seat was). Radiator up front, turbo and intercooler in the arse, bleed point back there somewhere.

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