Rookie Posted May 12, 2013 Share Posted May 12, 2013 You're an Idiot Yama. Na you don't need to change the ignition circuit, you do need to change some earths on the stator plate so that you have 2 separate systems. The stator will put out anywhere up to 35v ac, so it will be heaps to charge a 12v system. But yea as you said, replace bulbs, battery, and flashers. Here is a guy showing you how to do it on a Yamaha, but the principles are the same. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted May 14, 2013 Share Posted May 14, 2013 for what its worth, on this bike, the points lead to earth, some other bikes, the points complete the circuit that supply's power to the coil. should be fairly easy to convert to 12v if you so wish Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benno Posted May 22, 2013 Author Share Posted May 22, 2013 Finally got around to making a bit more progress on this. Got the rims finished off, new inner tubes and tyres back on. Looking a bit more like a bike again now. I decided I would try to start it before I did too much else, so wired it up and had a go at it. Will not start at all, pretty sure it is an ignition problem. I have wired it up as shown in the diagram. I know that the battery will go flat this way, but all I want to do is to get it running so I can have a hunt round with the multimeter to figure out the charging circuit. I removed the spark plug and kicked it over while holding it against block, no spark at all. I touched the HT lead and could feel a small shock as it turned over, but was pretty weak. The battery is fully charged (double checked this with multimeter). I removed the points and cleaned them, then re-gapped to 0.020. I wasn't really sure about the points gap, did a quick google and took a guess. I don't have a manual, and the likelyhood of getting one is basically none. I have a new set of points in the mail from taiwan (hopefully). Have I wired it up properly? What would an appropriate points gap be?What else could be wrong with it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
My name is Russell Posted May 22, 2013 Share Posted May 22, 2013 Wow that blue really 'pops' Much more to do? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Llama Posted May 22, 2013 Share Posted May 22, 2013 On the CB I have points gap of 0.3-0.4mm, which works out to be around 0.015 at maximum /useless post Make sure the low tension lead or points are not earthing anywhere on the frame. Wiring looks fine, it's exactly how the CB is done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted May 22, 2013 Share Posted May 22, 2013 You should check the condeser, ht lead, and coil. In that order. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted May 22, 2013 Share Posted May 22, 2013 To check the condenser; earth it out, then set your multimeter to resistance (M ohms). Check the resistance of the condenser, if it is good it should show a number and then head to infinity. Check the resistance of the ht lead, and the primary and secondary windings of the coil. If these are more than a couple of ohms then they are caput. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted May 22, 2013 Share Posted May 22, 2013 ive had it running and sparking well in that exact configuration, id put money on the points being the problem, did you see how pitted they are? but your wiring is sound, and once you find a charging current, you should be able to hook that right to the battery, via a rectifier Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ODB Posted May 22, 2013 Share Posted May 22, 2013 As said, above wiring looks correct to me mate. As Rookie said, hunt down the fail component and replace then figure out charging! What area are you in Chch am happy enough to come chuck a second pair of eyes at it one day Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benno Posted May 22, 2013 Author Share Posted May 22, 2013 I was fairly sure I had got the wiring right. I'm thinking the points might be contributing to the issue, but even in the condition they are in it should still run. I gave them a bit of a clean up with some fine grit sandpaper, but they seem pretty stuffed. I'll have another play with it when I next get time and test piece by piece. I'm in Riccarton. If I can't figure out what the problem is, having someone else to look at it would be awesome man. I'll let you know how I get on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ODB Posted May 23, 2013 Share Posted May 23, 2013 Have come to the conclusion that there is fuck all wiring diagrams on the web for a selpet / ma50. Found one for an FA50 which might give some clues but I wouldnt hang my hat on it. My thoughts , fwiw, get it running then wire the rest from scratch with newer lifan parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted May 24, 2013 Share Posted May 24, 2013 Fa50 isn't the same. I've spent close to 50 hours looking for one. Really should have just spent those hours tinkering with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benno Posted May 24, 2013 Author Share Posted May 24, 2013 Yeah, I came to the same conclusion. Apparently there is a guy up north that has a manual, but is a dickhead and wants ridiculous amounts of money for a scan. Once I get it going I'll investigate things with a multimeter, then make a regulator and rewire it from scratch. Wiring is a mess anyway. Shouldn't be too hard. With a little luck those new points will show up in the next few days Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guypie Posted May 24, 2013 Share Posted May 24, 2013 I have a service manual for suzuki singles 1964-72 it has a50 as50 m15 and m15d. No specific wiring diagrams but generic ones with instructions on troubleshooting. I can scan it at work on monday if you like Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benno Posted May 24, 2013 Author Share Posted May 24, 2013 Guypie: That would be awesome mate, appreciate it a lot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted May 24, 2013 Share Posted May 24, 2013 im pretty sure its an m15 engine! but it might just have the same points as an m15 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted May 24, 2013 Share Posted May 24, 2013 also id really love the a50 one too!! thats in the back yard ready to assemble for my brother Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guypie Posted May 24, 2013 Share Posted May 24, 2013 Sure just pm me your emails and what parts of it you want and i will send them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benno Posted May 25, 2013 Author Share Posted May 25, 2013 Finally got it running today Went through checking and testing everything. Got around to removing the coil, gave it a clean up and turns out it's a 12v coil. No wonder it didn't work with a 6v battery. Hooked up a 12v car battery with a 'whats the worst that can happen' attitude, immediately starts making a fat blue spark. Put spark plug back in and started second kick. Didn't run too badly really, needs a bit of a tune up though. Hopefully new points won't be too far off. Will get a 12v motorbike battery next week, sort out some brakes and hopefully take it for a run. Anyone in the Christchurch region got a front brake lever and cable they want to sell me? What fuel ratio should I be running? Currently put some 20:1 in there as figured best to be cautious and a bit smokey, but this is probably a bit excessive. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Llama Posted May 25, 2013 Share Posted May 25, 2013 Hah, half the way to the 12V conversion already! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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