Guest 20vkp61 Posted April 8, 2013 Share Posted April 8, 2013 Ive had my Starlet for 10+ years now and there are already 2 evolutions behind me. EVO1 covers the 4age20v I put in it years ago. EVO2 covers me turning it into a track car. Both these builds and the 3rd (below) can be found on my personal build page located at http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~quibel/ This thread here will cover the EVO3 build only - This is where I cover the things I did to put in a 3sge BEAMS engine, box, loom, ecu, dash etc etc etc. you can discuss at this link http://oldschool.co....s-kp61-starlet/ This is the start point for EVO 3 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 20vkp61 Posted April 8, 2013 Share Posted April 8, 2013 I started by removing the 4age blacktop/silvertop that was in teh bay, complete with loom, link ecu and t50 box. I sold all that gear so that I could begin the build. First purchase was buying a 3sge BEAMS engine from a 99 Altezza. Making sure that I also got the box, loom, ecu and dash and everything else I would need. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 20vkp61 Posted April 8, 2013 Share Posted April 8, 2013 First thing i did was to reverse the gearbox mount to bring it further foward. Such an easy mod on this box. remove top 2 bolts, and side bolts and remove the gearstick undo the bolt and pop the pin holding the holder the shifter in place. take off the shifter mount and put it on the other way move foward 50mm and use the holes that were already present. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 20vkp61 Posted April 8, 2013 Share Posted April 8, 2013 test fitting in the engine bay. I was lucky as I already had a recess for the 20v. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 20vkp61 Posted April 8, 2013 Share Posted April 8, 2013 even though i got given an altezza dash with the engine i wasnt happy with it. i ended up leaving with a 9000rpm centre mounted tacho dash instead at the same time i also scored an aftermarket pod filter and pipe out of one fo the 3sges in the yard. and not to be out done I also scored a 6kg billet flywheel to eventually get rid of the dual mass crapper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 20vkp61 Posted April 8, 2013 Share Posted April 8, 2013 Also finished off the mods to spanners engine xmember. I removed the 10mm spacers he added to drop it and added some holes to the underside of it for easier nut access for the engine mounts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 20vkp61 Posted April 8, 2013 Share Posted April 8, 2013 modified the gearbox mounts as there was to much sideplay with only one tube spacer. I now have some bent steel with some side support to stop twist, now held in place by two bolts and a chassis boot plate. May yet require a drivers side support out to the chassis rail but will see once the gearbox is mounted to it. Also got my shortened and modified drive shaft back today Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 20vkp61 Posted April 8, 2013 Share Posted April 8, 2013 And here is my modified KP60 Starlet Tank. I replaced the factory sender unit with the Altezzas 2nd Fuel Level Sender unit. This only required drilling out the top plate to the right PCD. I also decided to add the Altezza 2 way roll over breather pipe to the top of the tank. I made up a blanking plate to cap off the old outlet which is no longer used as the fuel now goes out via the custom extension and the factory Altezza pump/ fuel sender combo. What you cant see is that I also have the Altezza fuel surge pot inside the tank and the rubber pipe that normally runs off the pump to suck gas from the other side of the tank now sits nice and low by the drain plug to aid filling the pot as the starlet tank is not flat bottomed. The second pick shows the tank fitted up. Only a couple of small changes required for the fuel piping and then a bracket to hold the top in place as I have no wheel well now to hold it in place and its done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 20vkp61 Posted April 8, 2013 Share Posted April 8, 2013 A bigger gearbox means the need for a bigger drive tunnel. Having already cut the factory tunnel and firewall I finally made up a new top plate to the firewall. All I need to do now is to fill in the corners of the firewall and make up the top section for the gearstick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 20vkp61 Posted April 8, 2013 Share Posted April 8, 2013 rear and part of the side section complete now I just need to make up a couple of side plates and its done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 20vkp61 Posted April 8, 2013 Share Posted April 8, 2013 side wing added by this stage the mighty balistic banana was in a running state. first start up first drive Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 20vkp61 Posted April 8, 2013 Share Posted April 8, 2013 also needed to re-add a fuel filler as the certer advised me I couldnt fill the fuel tank inside the car and the modified starlet tank above needed to go to the outside anyways. added a panel section from a ke36 corolla and added the filler neck and while I was at it I repainted the side of the car and removed the decals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 20vkp61 Posted April 8, 2013 Share Posted April 8, 2013 engine all but done. final wiring locations completed and the altezza dash is actually smaller than the starlets one. and required few mods to fit inside the shrouds Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 20vkp61 Posted April 8, 2013 Share Posted April 8, 2013 old 15"x7" Outlaws now fitted with 195/50/15 (for circuit work and skid days) new rims for the road (17"x7.5" +4 Offset Rota RB's with 205/40/17) and off the blocks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 20vkp61 Posted April 8, 2013 Share Posted April 8, 2013 Adding coilovers to the rear was one of the last parts before certing could be done. A couple of body mods were required by LVVTA for cerfication. I needed to stich weld the rear strut top both inside and outside (Pics 1, 2, 3) and to add a bar between the towers to stop any inwards flexing (Pics 2, 4). While I was at it I pushed the strut top out 7mm to give the coil overs a little more clearance to the inside strut housing. I could have tied the strut tops into the rollcage but that would require rehomologating the cage which is a bigger hassle again The certifier also wanted me to drill out the lower mount and fit a high tensile bolt just incase the weld on mount gave way Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 20vkp61 Posted April 8, 2013 Share Posted April 8, 2013 better not forget a pic of the shocks and fitted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.