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Prozac's OTHER Starion of awesomeness


Guest camo_78

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Guest ProZac

Cheers guys.

Black one is going a little more serious, won't be very streetable anymore, not comfortably anyway. DOHC, more power, probably a cage. Will be more track-day orientated.

This one is going to be the daily. Its a shame it can't stay that low! Thats just the suspension as swapped straight out of the Black car, haven't put any tie into setting it up yet.

Hope to get some good time in on the manifold Sunday/Monday, should get the plenum finished, runners shortened further and maybe even some welding! Whooppppe! Easter weekend rocks :).

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Guest ProZac

knew the rears would fit, wasent sure about the fronts. Additionally, try finding affordable wheels that will fit these cars, they require some pretty serious offsets. nothing wrong with proper bolt on hubcentric spacers.

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  • 3 months later...

 Hi There I have just clicked you are the guy that picked up Mikes Starion, he works for me i've twin cam'ed  a WB 88 same as Mikes NZ new. Yes the burgandy kick panel is ok I will end up vacuum forming black vinyl over it after the chop up.

Cheers Shane

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  • 4 weeks later...
  • 7 months later...

I like where the steering is going! I would be dead keen on duplicating whatever you end up doing for the Eterna, I wanted to go to an S13 x-member with S13/14 struts/hubs/brakes etc. The only thing I'm worried about is increasing the front track too much using the Starion widebody 16x8 +18mm rims on Nissan hubs which are more suited to not only more positive rims but also perhaps less brake caliper clearance to the Starion rims therefore needing to run spacers. The only thing I don't lik about the S13 crossmember is that it overhangs the chassis rails each side and crossmember needs to be redrilled and chassis rails trimmed. I wonder if you would shorten the crossmember in the middle, slightly tweak the rack mounts (and add more bracing) and then pull in the camber at the top mounts to accommodate. 

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The s13 and Starion subframes are pretty similar in construction, they're a base subframe, with chassis/engine mounting ears welded to them. I've swapped the Starion chassis/engine mount ears from the starion base subframe, to the s13 one. This way, it bolts to the car as per factory, and mounts the engine in the same place, but has the correct LCA mounting points for the s13 gear. I lopped a bit off each end of the s13 base subframe to get it tucking nicely under the starion chassis rails.

 

Because of the factory steering box setup, the Starions are bloody tricksy. The frame rails aren't really parallel. The passenger side one (for us RHD folks) kinks outwards below the passenger seat/footwell area, whereas the drivers side one doesn't do this till infront of where the steering box is mounted! so there is a good length of the vehicle, including where the front subframe mounting points are, that has the frame rails offset to the passenger side of the car. I'm willing to bet the Eterna is the same. If you mount a symmetrical subframe, like and s13 one, to the original bolt locations and don't take this into account, it'll also be offset to the passenger side of the car.

 

The increased track is something I'm anticipating have problems with too. I think the best way to tackle it will be to shorten the control arms a smidge. Wouldn't want to shorten the rack, as then you're introducing bump-steer, which is the whole reason I've gone the way I have. Otherwise, I would have just welded rack mounts to the starion crossmember, and called it a day :-).

 

I might see about making a few of them if it all works out and doesn't drive like ass.

 

I've got a plan for connecting the rack to the steering column that should be both safe and legal too :-). not complicated, but will require machine shop work.

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cool keep me posted! interested to see how it works out in practice. If it goes well I bet you could make money off making a kit for all the Starion owners. The Eterna chassis is exactly the same as the Starion (it is what the Starion is based on afterall!) Main differences are four bolt strut tops with elongated strut top holes for just camber adjustment (ie flip strut tops 180deg) while the Starion uses a 3 bolt strut top with the strut top hole elongated for castor (and camber) adjustment. The Starion is also about a foot shorter in wheelbase and there's slight differences to the rear diff carrier but that's about it! I would say the offset frame rail on the driver side is to accommodate the steering box sitting between the frame rail and the wheel arch rather than typically on the inner side like on Toyotas etc.

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When it's done, we're bring it up to visit your land and camp out for a few years :-).

 

Not sure why they they don't command the same money as I freaking love them, more than any mazyota :-). But they are supremely 80's... If I had to guess though, I'd say it's the combination of crappy throttlebody injection, and crappy recirculating ball steering in factory form.

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Yeah, had a nosey around pick-a-part. Starions have really long control arms, so a relatively narrow rack is needed. Everything I saw there that had a rear-steer (mounted behind the crossmember) rack, was too long :-(. Plus, this way I get access to easy brake upgrade options as nissan stuff is super easy :-).

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one thing I was toying with the idea of was electric power steering using a column from a 2000's Barina, but then I'm not sure what racks would be compatible with an EPS column whether it had to be a specific rack or just a normal non-assisted manual rack. If I use an S13 rack I would use an MR2 electric power steering pump (probably mounted where the steering box would have been) just to keep the engine free of extra belt driven ancillaries as the alternator would need to be relocated to make room for turbos and piping on one side.

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