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Ned's 7K Drop Hatch Starlet


Ned

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Hi all,

as some of you know, i have purchased another KP. Bought it last year and did little to nothing to it thanks to some mad hours at work.

This year it's time to spend some money on the old girl to get her up to my standards!

Some pics of my first trip away (thanks snoozin for the lending of the bike etc!)

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So i bought some bits;

IMG_20130202_160044.jpg

IMG_20130202_160059.jpg

IMG_20130202_160036.jpg

IMG_20130202_160007.jpg

The plan is to fit the bike carbs, tidy up the engine bay, fix the rust, tidy up the interior.

Deadline for these is about 70 days from now for OS Nationals 2013 :)

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More relevant on Club-K rather than here maybe? But, what i did today, was go and buy the alternator shown above... It's completely wrong, but internally regulated so i decided to attempt to fit it today.... Below is my attempt.

NOTE: This is merely my attempt, and not THE way to do the same conversion, just the way i did it. Theres bound to be way better ways of doing it!

Don't actually remember where i got it from. Pretty sure it was a T170 Corona? Sorry about that lads.

So it has the wrong type of bottom mount compared to the K series one, has the wrong front pulley, and the top mounting place is also in the wrong place (at 2:00 o'clock instead of 10:00) but it looked good at pick a part and it was mounted at an easy to get to place in the original engine bay (at the top)

IMG_20130202_160007.jpg

Cut the pulley in 2 pieces so i could get a spanner on the big nut and a socket on the shaft to undo it.

IMG_20130202_174332.jpg

The K series pulley is flat at the bottom, but the alternator i got isn't, and needs a pulley where the center comes out further.

IMG_20130202_175455.jpg

The K series one also has a bit the goes on the shaft onto the pulley to hold it all in

IMG_20130202_175508.jpg

So put the pulley on the lathe to make the hole big enough for that center thing to fit through

IMG_20130202_180228.jpg

IMG_20130202_180237.jpg

Welded it on with the centre bit pushed all the way through. Not showing you my welding there ;) and also stuck it back on the lathe to make sure the mounting surface was nice and smooth/flat etc so it mounts on the alternator nicely, and put it onto the new alternator.

IMG_20130202_185226.jpg

So the bottom mount normally goes on the outside of the K series mount on the motor, but this one goes in between, and it's far too big

IMG_20130202_190234.jpg

attack with grinder, and ta-da! (take meat of the pulley side only to push the pulley as far forward as it can get)

IMG_20130202_191028.jpg

Though the problem is that the holes don't line up thanks to the bar on the mount (engine side mount)

IMG_20130202_191033.jpg

Done :)

IMG_20130202_191841.jpg

So, i mounted it and found out that the puley doesn't quite line up... So i cut another 6-7mm off the pulley side of the bottom mount, and spaced it out with some 20mm steel rod i had lying around and drilled a hole in it on the lathe.

No photo's of that sorry... May get one tomorrow.

But now the belt lines up!

IMG_20130202_200758.jpg

IMG_20130202_200727.jpg

Top mount doesnt meet up though...

IMG_20130202_200815.jpg

So took it off, cut it into 2 pieces and welded some steel in between it to lengthen it.

IMG_20130202_202231.jpg

IMG_20130202_202456.jpg

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IT FITS! (just, may need to get a slightly smaller belt?)

IMG_20130202_205146.jpg

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Little video (not sure if this will work for you lot or not)

https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/115065803788643467273/albums/5840281817540874769/5840281816785966930?authkey=CITcz4qW5-P6CQ

So tomorrow it's time for wiring it up and seeing if it actually works!

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So, heres a pic of the spacer i put on to line up the belts.

IMG_20130203_135445.jpg

IMG_20130203_135500.jpg

So the wiring..... SO EASY!

I just used the same battery wire, and other than that, the 3 other connections come from the plug that now goes to your regulator, handy right?

IMG_20130203_142250.jpg

So go to Supercheap, and get yourself a 6 pin Molex connector (they call it a quick connect 6 way connecor or something, and the guy had NO idea what a molex connector was. Thought i said Solex first, and then Rolex before he understood Molex) just go to the electrical isle and have a look yourself :)

Then just crimp the 3 wires from the original plug with the flat blade terminals.

IMG_20130203_150233.jpg

Now this is the wiring on the plug on the back of the radiator (the colours were wrong for me) And if you're not sure what side of the connector you should be looking at, the lamp wire is the small one.

toyota_wiring.jpg

So we have sense, ignition and lamp, which on my car were as follows;

-Lamp, yellow

-Ignition, black/Yellow

-Sense, white

So just stick the wires into the connector housing and connect it all up like so

IMG_20130203_150630.jpg

So, before;

IMG_20130203_143346.jpg

After

IMG_20130203_154047.jpg

Now it's time to see if you f@%ked anything up haha

connected up the battery

IMG_20130203_153125.jpg

Car running

IMG_20130203_153208.jpg

IT WORKS!

though shortly after it started making a horrible noise and the minimalistic weld i did on the back of the pulley let go and was scraping on the alternator, so i pulled it off, ground it back flat and welded both front and back and made a little video

https://plus.google.com/photos/115065803788643467273/albums/5840281817540874769/5840811804026962706?authkey=CITcz4qW5-P6CQ

Hope that helps someone with their conversion :)

So been told theres a barina that may work better, and i did see one at pick-a-part and i thought it looked pretty close, but that one was very dirty and old looking so opted for this one. This one is one of the Toyotas "Compact, high speed alternator with built-in IC regulator"

This toymods post helped me, even though all the colours were wrong for me

http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/faq/2705-quick-guide-internally-regulated-alternator-wiring.html

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Coil on plug anyone? hahaha (it's so so so big!)

IMG_20130204_185358.jpg

Thats a 2ZZ one that i was going to try to shorten, but turns out the reason the head is so small is because the coil itself is in the shaft, so not going to be able to shorten it at all :(

So gave up and did this so that when i find a suitable solution, i at least have something done...

Before;

IMG_20130204_185443.jpg

After

IMG_20130204_205423.jpg

What i did was try and drill out the pin at the bottom to take everything out, but failed miserably :(

So just cut in in 2 with everything in place. After that i made a plug for the top on the lathe, that was a nice press fit.

Shortened the shaft on the lathe as well so that the gear sits just as far from the housing as the standard one (about 2mm?) and bobs your uncle. Had to make the plug about 4 times as it was never quite right but got there in the end.

So the shaft just sits in there without being held in place? is that right? I'm guessing it cant go any further down when it's in the block right? If thats not the case, how did everyone else get that sorted? and if that is right, should i make the shaft a bit shorter to make sure it doesnt touch at the top, on the back of the plug?

So even though i have no idea if it will work, at least something was done today :)

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Figured it was time to do more things, given that Nats is all of 60 days away now!

So there was a bit of cancer in the Starlet,

Behind the rear bumper

IMG_20130209_130942.jpgIMG_20130209_130948.jpg

cut cut cut

IMG_20130209_173057.jpgIMG_20130209_173102.jpg

weld weld weld

IMG_20130210_145030.jpg

welder playing up so needs finishing/tidying

IMG_20130211_005545.jpg

Floor, you can hardly see it, but the only thing stopping my foot from going through the floor is the chassis rail

IMG_20130209_175751.jpg

can no longer see the road under my feet while driving :(

IMG_20130211_005659.jpg

Scuttle Panel/firewall areas

IMG_20130209_131001.jpgIMG_20130209_131008.jpg

IMG_20130209_131012.jpgIMG_20130209_131018.jpg

IMG_20130209_131021.jpgIMG_20130209_131025.jpg

lifty lift

IMG_20130209_173122.jpgIMG_20130209_173126.jpg

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Hope this goes back to looking like it did before the grinder/hammer/drill came out!!!!

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Getting there :)

IMG_20130211_005602.jpgIMG_20130211_005643.jpg

Theres a few more bits, but have posted enough pics already i think! Still some work left, and panel beater will be back on Saturday to finish it up. Won't tell you who the friendly panel beater is, but he'll make himself known if he wants to put his name next to his work :P

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Starting to look like a car again!

Quick re-cap;

IMG_20130209_131001.jpg

IMG_20130209_175801.jpg

IMG_20130216_183558.jpg

IMG_20130216_183608.jpg

IMG_20130209_173122.jpg

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Floor (it was a lot worse than it looks!)

IMG_20130209_175751.jpg

IMG_20130216_183638.jpg

Thats the main stuff that was done anyway. Also sprayed most the chassis rails (inside) and a few little patches. Time for paint and a wof this week hopefully!

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  • 3 weeks later...

So this is how it this morning (well, yesterday technically)

IMG_20130309_095217.jpg

IMG_20130309_095244.jpg

Needed some grinding/tidying and the painting done.

So tape it up

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Wrap it up in a large condom

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and make it so the patches are accessible

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Prime it up and put on a bit more cavity wax where it needs it

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LOOK! IT'S RED!!!!!

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Colour match is pretty good!

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DONE :)

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And flipped the centers on the wheels on the f@%ked one for lols. Will probably do this to the spares and use them on the trailer. May even weld the two inners together to get a nice 9" wheel :)

Bit wide for the KP though!

IMG_20130309_215917.jpg

IMG_20130309_215933.jpg

Oh, and the car is back together again (as you can see in those last pics)

though it isn't keen to run for some reason... got the battery on the charger, as it's a bit flat.

Would kick into life with a roll/tow start, but wouldn't idle on its own.

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So, quick little update, with the PROPER info on how to do in internally regulated alternator swap on a K series!!!!

Firstly, i will show what happened to the last attempt i made...

IMG_20130314_172345.jpg

so chewed it up nice and proper!

Next was to buy a 7K alternator for $125+gst (and a trade in alternator) from some toyota wrecker on the north shore. Compare this to the unit i had in it, and you wonder how/if it even makes power... but it can keep a townace/noah running, so a starlet shouldnt be a problem!

IT"S SO CUTE AND TINY!

IMG_20130314_174947.jpg

and one of the numbers in case someone needs them;

IMG_20130313_135035.jpg

So mounted that, replaced a dead fuse and she worked well :D

Also got the car up to temp and did a compression test which netted good results...

192, 190,200,185 or something like that anyway. Didn't write them down. Number 1 and 4 plugs were wet though, which was weird. Checked timing and was set to 10deg at 1000 RPM (with the vacuum advance connected, which i assume is the right way to do it?)

Gotta get some new plugs and leads, but got cap, rotor, condenser and points today to replace them. Figured i might as well give the ignition a birthday (before pulling it off to replace with wasted spark)

AND i got some new wheels today from Mr Fels. Will get some tires tomorrow and post up a pic of them then, but they look like these ones;

cc2deu-960.jpg

They are Advan YHs, 14x6 and will fit some 165 60 14's tomorrow which should hopefully look the part :)

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  • 1 month later...

So time for an update on the bike carbs....

For starters, they still aren't on. I tried to get them on before Nats and even stayed back in Auckland a couple extra days to try get them running but was a no-go for now.

Anyway,

The bike carbs i got (GSX1100's apparently) are 34mm carbs, and the ports on my 7K are MUCH smaller so needed do do a reduction of some kind between carb and motor.

I chose to do the reduction as far back to the head as possible, and used the 12mm plate for the manifold to do the taper. With the carb being 34mm, i decided that using a 1.5" pipe with 1.4mm wall thickness would be good, as that gives me an ID of ~35mm to go with the 34mm carbs.

So i got slacker.cam to draw me up a manifold with the required taper;

aA4mV.jpg

and then got sentra_dave to machine it out on his giant machine

IMG_20130405_191256.jpg

IMG_20130405_204340.jpg

The manifold actually ended up being wrong, as both me and cam didnt spot the error so got it remade. The taper is wrong. The one on the left is what we drew up, without thinking too hard, and did it wrong because we needed it to be like the picture on the right, so sentra_dave made the required changes and we cut another one.

7DpXi.jpg

The block sits on a 20deg angle, and the carbs sit on a further 10deg angle, hence the pipe coming off at 30deg angle from the flange.

so this is the new flange;

IMG_20130406_194025.jpg

The carbs have a different spacing, so needed to make it all match up

IMG_20130408_092203.jpg

I used 180deg bends from AutoBend

IMG_20130315_135300.jpg

and the good thing is that because i made it to the pipe connects at a 30 deg angle, to match the motor and the carb, the runners could be straight and only had to bend to bend to change the carb spacing. Yes, i probably could have gone straight and used silicone joiners and probably get away with it, but i wanted to try match it up nice and snug.

Here is the "final result" to give you an idea of what i did before i start explaining how i did it

IMG_20130411_171751.jpg

and a mid way shot

IMG_20130406_221259.jpg

So to make the runners match up, you need to obviously figure out the spacing on the motor ports and the carbs, so figure that out, and then figure out the difference between centre lines. These are make believe values, as i didnt document this part

eT3XS.jpg

So next is measuring and cutting time of the 180deg bends. Now i feel like i should explain something first. This might be blindingly obvious to some, but might not be to others so i'm adding this anyway (as it's my thread and i can do as i want :) )

turning a 180deg bend into a straight pipe with an offset is as simple as cutting it in 1/2 and turning 1 end over. And if you want to narrow the offset, you just cut some out of the middle of the pipe. And the part i wanted to explain, was that it doesnt matter what angle you cut the pipe at, as long as both sides are the same, and it will match up perfectly.

So, to change the offset, just chop a bit out the middle

Qe1Bz.jpg

and the angle doesnt matter at all, as shown below;

GZP5J.jpg

eEkVC.jpg

j4w7a.jpg

as long as the angles are the same! (exaggeration below)

rpw6h.jpg

So i setup a drop saw with a 30deg angle (as i needed 30 deg for the ends to match up with the flange anyway)

and then started measuring and cutting.

First, i would rub the bend on my bench to lightly mark the highest part of the bend

IMG_20130406_215402.jpg

Here you can (somewhat) see the marks it made

IMG_20130406_215421.jpg

and then marked that up with a vivid

IMG_20130406_215516.jpg

Then i grabbed a bit of scrap 50x50 to use as a straight bit to put the straight part of the bend against to mark where to cut it.

So going by that measurement drawing above, the spacing between 2 of the ports is 20mm, so the offset between the straight bits needs to be 20mm, which is 20/2=10mm a side. The pipe is 38.1mm so 38.1/2+10=29.05mm. So set your straight edge dude to 29.05+50mm (from the 50x50) = 79.05mm and put it against the far edge of the 50x50. Now where the end of the straight edge crosses with your earlier mark, is where you want to cut it, so mark that.

IMG_20130406_215537.jpg

IMG_20130406_215613.jpg

You will need to cut your bend roughly in 1/2 to get it to fit in the drop saw, but after that, put it in the drop saw and cut off where the mark is. Again, any angle is fine as long as you dont change it.

IMG_20130406_215725.jpg

Then when you've both, debur them (i used a knife as it's only ally)

IMG_20130406_215959.jpg

and they will fit together like a glove and be perfectly straight

IMG_20130406_220308.jpg

repeat for all 4 runners

IMG_20130406_220322.jpg

Now line it all up so you know whats what and make sure you have all the runners. I numbered them, which was probably a good idea. After that i cut the ends at 30deg to match the flange and cleaned up the edges with a knife.

IMG_20130406_222818.jpg

Now chop the other end to length as well, nice and straight.

IMG_20130407_115313.jpg

And then you're ready to give them to the man to glue them together!

IMG_20130408_201250.jpg

Dont have any more pics sorry, but here are the carbs all mounted

IMG_20130411_171751.jpg

Just a random note. We put that bar in between the 2 sides of the manifold to hold everything together at the right spacing etc. It can get cut off now if i want, but i'm leaving it there for now. It's handy having a handle to take everything of in one go and it's not in the way of anything so there is no harm in keeping it.

Carb tuning didnt go well, so i wont go into that until i sort it out :)

Thanks for reading! not that i expect you really did read all of this haha

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  • 4 weeks later...

Been a while...

Been collecting goodies!

Have these coming;

Rush Automotive Extractors for my 7K

dsc01836uj.jpg

Rush Automotive Baffled/modified sump (sample pics of previous work)

7ksumpygoodness1.jpg

7ksumpygoodness3.jpg

and a K-T bellhousing (fairly rare) so that i can start strengthening my drive train before i build up my supercharged injected 7K with the power of 2 4AGEs combined because RACECAR/van

Also have a spare injected 7K sitting in the garage that i picked up for a very good price from pick a part :) suspect BHG though but will be rebuilt to handle a reasonable amount of power. My uneducated mind wants to aim for 200+ HP ATW with an SC14 but will need to talk to the engine builder man to see how obtainable that is on my budget etc. Might put motor building on the back burner for now and sort the rest of the car first and just enjoy the bike carbs for the next couple years instead while doing diff brakes body etc.

Go see Rush Automotive for all your K series needs guys! Sheldon does exceptional work! Took a while to get the bits for me though as he's very busy 90% of the time but should be worth the wait

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  • 4 months later...

Gave the car a bit of a tickle up.

Gave it a wash, clay bar, machine polish and then a wax. Came up WAY better!

Best $100 i've ever spent on the car TBH, and thanks Alistair for the car detailing write up, came in handy :)

Bonnet before, with icky marks and dull colour

IMAG0072_BURST004.jpg

Bonnet after (late at night in the garage so actually looks better than the pics!)

IMAG0078_BURST004.jpg

Roof before

IMAG0074_BURST002.jpg

Roof After

IMAG0076.jpg

IMAG0075.jpg

That plus doing some maintenance like new wheel bearings, brake pads, oil, wheel nuts etc is really all i've done... but it's WOFed and Reged for all of summer, so keen to get some cruising miles done this summer!

I think theres a couple photos floating around from the weekend at Pauanui last weekend, so i'll try find them for day time/sun pics of the car.

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  • 2 months later...

So i never showed you guys what this looks like clean and in the sun!

this was a little while later and wasnt quite as clean as it could/should be, but here she is!

IMAG0129.jpg

Then me and Dion bought a parts car together. Jap import with sprint seats, fender mirrors, electronic ignition, fuel injection etc

IMAG0106.jpg

My KP isnt even that slammed, but that there is a decent difference :)

IMAG0113.jpg

anyway, what i've been up to today...

before

IMAG0295.jpg

IMAG0294.jpg

after

IMAG0302.jpg

IMAG0306.jpg

Looks quite bare ATM... fender mirrors tomorrow i hope

IMAG0310.jpg

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  • 1 year later...
  • 2 weeks later...

carbs are for suckers!

IMG_20151111_210200.jpg

also put a hole in the fuel rail

IMG_20151111_215138.jpg

for this :D

IMG_20151111_215152.jpg

So now i have a fuel pressure sensor on the fuel rail to go back to the ECU. Not needed, but i'm going to run a Bosch 044 (china 044) and thats gonna be a little overkill, so going to reduce the flow so want to be able to log the fuel pressure to make sure its not too much for the standard fuel pressure reg, and also enough for when i'm at max fuel etc.

IMG_20151111_215549.jpg

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