Sparkle Posted January 26, 2014 Share Posted January 26, 2014 Man I seriously dig this car, and you basically getting stuck in. Good job man Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shakotom Posted January 26, 2014 Share Posted January 26, 2014 Was just wondering if you could give me any details on how to mount the sun visor? Cheers mines just mounted with two screws either side straight into the A-pillars Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shakotom Posted February 7, 2014 Share Posted February 7, 2014 So I'm looking for a good airfilter for this thing as the factory air box doesn't fit in the gap I've got for it so any recommendations? Are those hks mushroom style ones worth the money? Or is there something better value out there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted February 22, 2014 Share Posted February 22, 2014 You reckon the bent axle caused your seal to go. .. or just a coincidence? If it's not too bad you might be able to have them faced in a lathe.. just wack studs out and drop at machine shop. They should be able to set up to the bearing surface and machined area near spline then tell you how much it's running out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shakotom Posted February 22, 2014 Share Posted February 22, 2014 You reckon the bent axle caused your seal to go. .. or just a coincidence? If it's not too bad you might be able to have them faced in a lathe.. just wack studs out and drop at machine shop. They should be able to set up to the bearing surface and machined area near spline then tell you how much it's running out Im not to sure really, I know that the bit the wheel bolts on is not true, but if you roll the axle along a flat surface it just appears the face isn't true. It measures about 2mm out from face to top of the axle. Gonna go talk to diffs r us and see if there is anything that can be done about it. Or if the longer axles have enough splines to just be cut shorter.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NVMPAJ Posted March 18, 2014 Share Posted March 18, 2014 Great choice for the fan controller mate , also they hold their setting memory . So no worries when ignition is off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NVMPAJ Posted March 18, 2014 Share Posted March 18, 2014 Just feed the relay with a switched 12volt supply. For the sensor I use an old temp gauge sender and removed the guts then glued in the control sender. I don't think it matters too much where you mount it . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shakotom Posted March 18, 2014 Share Posted March 18, 2014 It came with a cable type thermostor to sense with, is that what you glued into your sensor? Link to what you did? As I'm not 100% on having wires sticking out of hoses @nvmpaj Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NVMPAJ Posted March 18, 2014 Share Posted March 18, 2014 Here you go mate , I used a sealer not just ordinary glue http://imageshack.us/a/img822/5281/g4gw.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted July 16, 2014 Share Posted July 16, 2014 Looks sweet on those new wheels! Reminds me of 80's racecar. Much less bogan than the steels haha 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shakotom Posted July 16, 2014 Share Posted July 16, 2014 ^Id just succeeded in being happy with the way it sat over the steels though, and could happily wear my flatpeak* driving it and now its got wheelgap again with the smaller wheels so Im back to square one. That being said those wheels would look lush on my van with wide tyres. (I think theyre 120.65 not 120.0 anyway) So RS are the plan for it. They look similar to that anyway. *IM NOT ACTUALLY A FLATPEAKER Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted July 16, 2014 Share Posted July 16, 2014 Easy to solve, just lower a bit more (can still see daylight underneath so plenty of room!!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shakotom Posted August 16, 2014 Share Posted August 16, 2014 Hey guys. Now I figure it's about time I start getting this ready to get a cert so it's legal. I think the later model commodore suspension swap is gonna be too much of a mission to get the camber back to within cert tolerances even with adj tophats because the LCA's are so flamin long. I can still sort the brake upgrade onto vk struts so that's sweet But here lies where I need your help! Making coilovers. Plan is to shorten strut body and weld on threaded platform. (Like the coilover guide in tech articles) I've read that, and read most of the build threads on here, so I've go ta basic idea. But how do you know what height to weld the platform at/ what length shocks to choose ect? Thing is at the height I'm at now, I have hardly any travel till I hit bumpstops on standard blown shocks and I would like to go lower. So any advice? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terminal220 Posted September 3, 2014 Share Posted September 3, 2014 Oh sh!t, those things look amazing.....they even make your BBS RS mags look like hobo wheels! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GuyWithAviators Posted September 3, 2014 Share Posted September 3, 2014 Those wires are incredible. Nice photos too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shakotom Posted October 8, 2014 Share Posted October 8, 2014 Brake upgrades? Currently running 270mmx22 rotors and single pot callipers looking at: standard VL turbo stuff. (Callipers $220) 290mmx22mm with single pot finned callipers Or VL turbo rotors and an adaptor to run rx7 4 pot callipers (callipers $300) std s4/5 rx7 4pots are designed to run with a 290mmx22mm rotor I believe Or Standard VT stuff (already have all parts) 296mmx28mm with two pot callipers (And muck around to run VT suspension again or buy hub things to run that on std VK struts. About $500) I want something that will last a track day with out much fade. Last track day I went to, I managed to boil my fresh brakefluid and over heat the wheel bearing grease which has wrecked the wheel bearings now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ghostchips Posted February 9, 2015 Share Posted February 9, 2015 That pretty much has made me anti scrapping cars scrap yards have no respect for them in there final journeys. Wise words, i am against that too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZOO222 Posted February 11, 2015 Share Posted February 11, 2015 The XYZ coil overs from Speedfactor in Tauranga is what ive done in my VL and they are an amazing upgrade from the standard gear. Send the fronts to them for cutting and welding and the rears just bolt in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shakotom Posted February 11, 2015 Share Posted February 11, 2015 The XYZ coil overs from Speedfactor in Tauranga is what ive done in my VL and they are an amazing upgrade from the standard gear. Send the fronts to them for cutting and welding and the rears just bolt in. Adam?? Yeah looked at them. A bit unsure about the brand though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZOO222 Posted February 11, 2015 Share Posted February 11, 2015 Nah not Adam, im Matt. http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showthread.php?t=206948 I was unsure but a bit of googling and it seems most of the hondacup cars use them. So you could ask those guys some more detialed questions maybe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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