Steelies Posted July 30, 2014 Share Posted July 30, 2014 rad! gettin close now.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goat Posted July 31, 2014 Author Share Posted July 31, 2014 Jeah, dont want to lose momentum... What should a do about the carbon build up on the top of the bores? I can get rid of the thick of it with some degreaser and my finger nails. Shoud i get the bores honed? Or just clean off the carbon and roll dirty... hah Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted July 31, 2014 Share Posted July 31, 2014 I used degreaser and scotchbrite hahaha 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted July 31, 2014 Share Posted July 31, 2014 I wouldn't waste my time with any engine work because it was a mint runner before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted July 31, 2014 Share Posted July 31, 2014 What should a do about the carbon build up on the top of the bores? How I do it is wind each piston to BDC (I'm guessing on your motor it will be two at a time) and jam a rag down each bore good and solid leaving the top inch of bore clear. Clean the carbon up with one of them green scotch pads you use on dishes. Don't get too anal because the carbon ring will come right back after a few rides anyhow. You just want to dislodge any sizeable chunks that may have been loosened by taking the head off. Take the rags out carefully by slowly winding the engine to TDC. When you are done then clean each bore with a new rag that has been moistened with clean oil. Again no need to be too anal, the combustion will burn most everything in the first couple of revs anyway. Main thing is you don't want loose carbon getting right back under the valve seat again. Oh yeah degreaser sprayed on the scotch brite will help soften the carbon. (don't spray it directly into the bore) 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goat Posted July 31, 2014 Author Share Posted July 31, 2014 Cheers for the info! Plan of attack is now sorted. Should be up and running in a couple of weeks fingers crossed! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted July 31, 2014 Share Posted July 31, 2014 You should change that cam chain while you are at it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goat Posted July 31, 2014 Author Share Posted July 31, 2014 It only needs to last another year or so. Maby 2000ks max. When i put the 466 kit in i will do new cam, cam chain, tensioners, clutch and primary drive chain. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unclejake Posted July 31, 2014 Share Posted July 31, 2014 With a bike you could probably just tip it upside-down to protect the engine from carbon ingress when scraping at stz 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seedy Al Posted August 10, 2014 Share Posted August 10, 2014 you can clean the combustion chambers up with a wire wheel on drill. just use your head. but most importantly, leave the valves in when you do it, as you don't want to touch the valve seats Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seedy Al Posted August 10, 2014 Share Posted August 10, 2014 you can also clean the valves up with a wire wheel. they are hardend, so not going to fuck them 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goat Posted August 10, 2014 Author Share Posted August 10, 2014 So yea, Pulled head apart in the weekend. No pics. Cool story. My barrels and the head are covered in some mega baked on oil and grime. Have tried scotchbrite but thats a bit futile. Does anyone have any tricks for cleaning this stz? Apart from sand/soda blasting. Alloy wheel cleaner? Has anyone used this? Don't really want to put them back on looking all yuck tbh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MKD Posted August 11, 2014 Share Posted August 11, 2014 ive heard drain cleaner/lye solutions work - but they dissolve alloy so be careful how long you soak for. Or vinegar - http://www.bikeexif.com/custom-bsa-motorcycle its in there somewhere. cool bike too. ....To get rid of years of rust and grime, he dismantled the transmission and cases and bought 12 bottles of the cheapest vinegar he could find. (“I soaked the gearbox internals in my bedroom for about three days. It was pretty messy. I had to be extremely careful not to kick over a container in the night.”).... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unclejake Posted August 11, 2014 Share Posted August 11, 2014 I'd try paint stripper. I'm pretty sure I've done it in the past but I can't actually remember for sure (I've had a lot of past you see) EDIT: Oh, you mean the outside of the barrels? In that case oven cleaner is pretty good and relatively cheap/easy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted August 11, 2014 Share Posted August 11, 2014 If you are going to pull it all apart to lap in the valves anyway just drop the head and barrels to an engine reconditioner (Headmaster on King St. is good) and ask if they can hot tank them for a day. Maybe ask them to give the barrels a quick hone while you are there. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seedy Al Posted August 12, 2014 Share Posted August 12, 2014 or you can get shit to me and I can just drop it in our hot tank at work Paint stripper works for mega carbon etc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goat Posted September 23, 2014 Author Share Posted September 23, 2014 Pictureless update fail. So yea, Manu the GC put me on the the most epic GC ever who helped me clean my valves, barrels, head and lap in all the valves. Got all that back nice and clean, and valves sealing now! Got stuck in last night and put the head back together. And spent hours removing the baked on gasket from the bottom of the block. Shits all clean and ready to go back on. Hopefully i will fit the barrels and head tonight. That leaves tomorrow for setting up the cam and putting other stz like carbs and 'zorst on. Then hopefully it will be a runner again (and without the blowing back through the carb). Exciting times ahead. Looking forward to a bit more pep on my commutes than the GP125 can dish out! Found a picture, cos pictureless updates are major lame tbh: 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kicker Posted September 24, 2014 Share Posted September 24, 2014 Rad Fuck the work-a-day world 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goat Posted September 24, 2014 Author Share Posted September 24, 2014 So yeah, I have actually got off my ass and did something for a change. Am pretty sick of my projects not doing anything and me just watching tv shows in the evenings. So bam:Ready to go:Head with valves back in:This was a terrible job without ring compressors:Done:Mmm, no carbon buildup:Popped the head back on:I need a tourque wrench to torque the head down. Will get that this weekend.Put the cam in and timed it up. Super simple.I did make an amature mistake though, i thought the cam chain tensioners could be put in after the head was on. Aparently not... Will have to come out again, no worries though. Shouldnt take long. FULL STEAM AHEAD!! 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted September 24, 2014 Share Posted September 24, 2014 Are you working on this on Friday Josep? Is this in Masty-town of on the Prarie? I have a torque wrench you can use. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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