Requiemk Posted December 26, 2012 Share Posted December 26, 2012 http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/15/20121226150744.jpg/ It looks rather similar? give me a text if its something your after and we can sort something out as im off on holiday up north later this arvo 0276140005 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dell'orto Posted December 26, 2012 Author Share Posted December 26, 2012 So I finally got a chance to have a good look under the bonnet today...things are really quite well packed in there! Regardless of how compact the motor is, all the ancilliaries make it quite difficult to get to, well, anything. Spark plugs for example, are easy enough to spot. To get them out requires triple jointed fingers and a rubber extension bar however A bunch of the loom runs in front of them and the front housing is partially obscured by the PS pump and lines. Today though, I started out with checking the condition of the air filter. With all the stock intake in place its actually kinda tricky to remove compared to say, an AE101 Corolla. I did get carried away in the process of doing it though The Series 7 runs a little different vacuum set up to the Series 6's, in that instead of a massive rats nest of hoses, it has a big vacuum block with a rats nest of wires and solenoids I pressurised the lines to see if anything was amiss, and straight away I could hear something. Took a while to find it though! This little green and white bugger here: A bit of a mongrel to get to, but touch wood this is the root cause...if it leaks with 5psi, no doubt it leaks under vacuum too! Have got a mate sending me another one ASAP. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted December 26, 2012 Share Posted December 26, 2012 good work man. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikuni Posted December 26, 2012 Share Posted December 26, 2012 I actually quite like the current wing. More so than the s8 wing atleast. Just lose the sideskirts and see how it looks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dell'orto Posted December 26, 2012 Author Share Posted December 26, 2012 Yeah I don't mind the stock whale tail wing at all, but I do like the Series 8 stuff too. Had a crack at the sideskirts today, and they do have screws in the sills fuck it all. Definitely need to get my low jack fixed so I can lift it up to get at them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dell'orto Posted December 27, 2012 Author Share Posted December 27, 2012 Yeah will go over all the hoses before I put the upper manifold back on, from a quick inspection they actually seem alright. I might get a reel of vacuum hose and replace the lot just to be safe, though I'm also wary of potentially causing an issue disturbing them I may take you up on the offer of coils at some stage though, there is a tiny amount of caron tracking on one of the trailing coils...don't think its likely to be an issue, but you never know. Hey they have 4 seats! Just the rears are for people you don't like Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dell'orto Posted December 27, 2012 Author Share Posted December 27, 2012 Nah I've got a low profile jack that gets in there nicely, but the ram is poked...keep meaning to order a new one, but it's been hectic at work lately. They're pretty low on the to-do list anyway Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dell'orto Posted January 20, 2013 Author Share Posted January 20, 2013 So I did a bit more diagnostic stuff while the manifold was off...sadly that little check valve wasn't the issue, there's actually a port above it that's impossible to see in place. Checked out the coils, and found they were all well in spec, and the coil loom had continuity too. Leads however were a different story, manual said no more than 16K ohm per metre, these were all between 4 and 7k ohm, and they longest of them is 30 centimetres Coolant temp sensor plug was pretty rugged looking too, so checked out the sensor itself. Manual says between 2.2 and 2.7k oh at 20 degrees, the one in the car was 4! With those replaced, I put it all back together and took it for a drive. Sadly while it'd improved it - previously it wouldn't free rev above 4k rpm, now it revs pretty freely - it's still not right. Gave up, have taken it to Pulse Performance and will let them get it sorted Hopefully it'll be done by mid Feb! Oh, and thanks to Ewan I have an ARC airbox heading over too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SHGWAG Posted January 20, 2013 Share Posted January 20, 2013 A couple of weeks after buying mine, I had a problem like this. Car would acccelerate find off boost, but as soon as it got into positive pressure it would backfire, stutter and refuse to accelerate. After taking it to numerous workshops and paying $$$ in trying to find the problem, no one could figure out what was wrong with it. Something kept putting the ECU into limp mode. When I ripped out the engine for the rebuild, I found that 90% of the engine bay plugs were brittle and fell apart whilst trying to unplug them, and 40% of those were already broken and just sitting together with no force holding them together. The wiring was also hard and very brittle. That's when I had the whole damn thing rewired and did the single turbo conversion to get rid of the rat's nest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dell'orto Posted January 20, 2013 Author Share Posted January 20, 2013 Yeah I certainly think its more an electrical issue than mechanical...the plugs all looked and felt pretty good though, but who knows if any of the wires are broken down under the insulation. God I wish I could go single turbo right off the bat - should have bought that purple one down south, would have had the money to do it and repaint it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SHGWAG Posted January 20, 2013 Share Posted January 20, 2013 You can get a plug in link and bolt a S5 turbo on the side, should be good for just over 200kw atw. Conversion should cost less than $2500..... may not solve your issue, but would clear up alot of clutter on the drivers side of the engine bay / under the intake manifold though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dell'orto Posted January 20, 2013 Author Share Posted January 20, 2013 If I go single it'll be properly - I've never been a fan of doing things halfassedly, and a FC turbo just won't do...something like a TD06 size would be about perfect for what I want Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dell'orto Posted January 24, 2013 Author Share Posted January 24, 2013 Oh yes, good to know...stock pump would get the boot also, do it once do it right etc. Nah coils checked out fine thanks anyway....it's now safely tucked away at PPRE, awaiting the nats to be over and done with so they have some time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shizzl Posted January 24, 2013 Share Posted January 24, 2013 You can get a plug in link and bolt a S5 turbo on the side, should be good for just over 200kw atw. Conversion should cost less than $2500..... may not solve your issue, but would clear up alot of clutter on the drivers side of the engine bay / under the intake manifold though. yup, my s4 with s5 turbo and link got 273kw at the wheels when tuned by nzefi.. definately change the fuel pump, i used a batty pump but it died on the dyno...walbro went in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Dell'orto Posted April 6, 2013 Share Posted April 6, 2013 So, 2 1/2 months and $1200 later, I have the FD back in my possession. Still in no better running order than when I dropped it off sadly. In no way am I blaming PPRE, I did say to them there was no rush to get it done, and made up my mind this week to go get it from them. They've tried a multitude of things, including scanning it with the genuine Mazda scan tool and an aftermarket one with no real answers. Apparently the Mazda tool said there was a faulty boost solenoid, but even replacing it with a known good one there was no improvement. They even tried swapping the tone wheel on the front pulley to see if that was potentially a problem (apparently even a minor bend in the tone wheel can cause issues) but nada. From what I gather, there is a faulty wire SOMEWHERE in the loom which is giving odd signals to the ECU, which is kinda what I thought from the outset. Tracking that down will be fun! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Seedy Al Posted April 6, 2013 Share Posted April 6, 2013 i do feel sorry for you pal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Dell'orto Posted April 6, 2013 Share Posted April 6, 2013 To be fair, not all of that is diagnostic cost, they fixed the leak from the rear stationary gear o ring, and fluid changes etc. They're actually pretty cheap, $75+ an hour Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ta63-1uzze Posted April 6, 2013 Share Posted April 6, 2013 I am shocked that they charged you 1200 and no fix. You need to find an auto electrician and have them look at it, preferable one that has rolling road, to help replicate the fault. you need to use an oscilloscope and a data logger, if there is a fault in the car and it’s not making the signal go out of parameters then there will be no fault code, therefore no matter what scanner is used no fault will be found. When an oscilloscope is used you are basically viewing the live signal from the sensor, so if there is a fault with the sensor the pattern on the screen will change , if the fault is in the wiring then you can connect the scope at the ecu, and once again the fault will show up on screen, in form of a short to ground for a millisecond or a flat line, or curved tail end of a square wave signal etc there can be many different type of faults but they are very easy to see and record if you have the right gear and know how to use it Sometimes the car needs to be moving to create the vibration to cause the fault, hence why a rolling road can make it much faster to diagnose. Did they tell you what circuit or roughly what the fault is? Or what they think the fault could be? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Dell'orto Posted April 6, 2013 Share Posted April 6, 2013 100% with you on the scope hence why I went and got the car, will take it to a decent auto sparky (Once I work out who is good locally!) Rolling road is a good idea, I don't know of any around here who has one, but certainly a good idea. I recall some of my really oldschool customers had old Bosch dynos for doing gas analysing etc. The fault is that it misses under load, and apparently its knocking now too - Warren was quite concerned about me taking it until he saw I had a trailer. As for circuit no not really, he said it came up with a bunch of issues, but swapping the sensor or repairing something had no effect. Its an odd one, but something I think a good sparky could find. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest SHGWAG Posted April 8, 2013 Share Posted April 8, 2013 Hmmmmmmmmmmmm. A good friend of mine's was running super rich / pulsing at idle after the previously owner had it rebuilt. He had it apart many times trying to find a fault. It turned out that when the car had been rebuilt, the Air intake temp sensor and oil temp sensors (or similiar sensors) were plugged into each other's ECU plug. Could it be that simple? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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