yoeddynz

DIY Fuel injection thread.

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On 12/04/2019 at 10:48, ajg193 said:

Why are you always such a cunt?

Humour mostly

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On 07/09/2019 at 17:59, ajg193 said:

Ling post:

Chinese wideband O2 sensor still going hard

i mean, the most we can say is that its still kicking out a voltage. who knows if its the right voltage. 

probably less of a concern for a little N/A engine, but fuck taking that chance on something where AFRs actually matter.

 

in other news

has anyone come across a solid state PDM thats back yard budget friendly? id love to use one but the cheapest ive found is 300 usd plus freight. (thats probably really cheap compared to motorsport spec $3000) is it something you diy?

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Look up Infineon Profets if you want to DIY yourself into oblivion / have 3000 hours to spare.

But honestly $300 USD is pretty epic for PDM. 

Is it run by CAN? 
Got a link? 

 

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shit i thought i put a link

https://motobrain.net/details

i dont think its CAN, but you could probably run a can signal up to an arduino thinger and then have it spit out the inputs for the PDM right next to it? i dont know much about arduinos but have read a bit of the stuff youve been doing.

 

will have a look at this stuff you mentioned. im going to be throwing the MoTeC m400 i have into the corona at some point instead of it literally collecting dust, so CAN just became a hole lot more interesting too

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Anyone got experience locking a distributor and using it with electronic controlled ignition, like Megasquirt or Megajolt? Would I need to worry about rotor phase or anything, or can i just lockwire the mechanical advance into place where it would be 0 mech advance, and be done with it?

Ideally i would go for a trigger wheel, but there isnt one made for my engine (ford cologne) and I could deal with a custom/universal one later once the engine is running on the locked dizzy.

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I'm using a 7K-E distributor in the Starlet. It isn't exactly locked as there was never any advance mechanism in it in the first place. It works absolutely fine.

As long as your ECU has an idea of where the engine is in the cycle you can just aim the rotor so it is just leaving the post at 0 degrees.

If you look at my thread there is an example of what I did with the trigger setup in the distributor. Originally the 7K-E distributor only had 4 points on the trigger wheel, but I made one that goes up and around the VR pickup - this gives a stronger signal as there is a higher tooth speed, and allowed me to fit more points in (24-1 in the current configuration).

 

 

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i used a locked dizzy in my first engine, then used a trigger wheel mounted in the case of a dizzy. 

both times i just locked the dizzy up with lockwire. removing the flyweights gave excellent locking points. just a figure 8 of wire and twist it up giving it heaps of tension. use actual lockwire and youll never have to worry.

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that motobrain thing looks dead as a door nail.... no posts on facebook, reddit, no youtube videos etc

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I finally found time to get the 4age itbs on my mx5.  First startup went as smoothly as can be expected.  Took it for a couple of laps around the block and the noise has made it all worth the hassle, almost.   That being said, theres a misfire on cylinder 4.   I've tried everything i can think of, and more, and still can't seem to diagnose the issue.

  • Swap fuel injectors
  • Swap spark plugs
  • Test plug wire - 3.3kOhms, seems to match numbers found online
  • Set ecu to batch fire rather than fully sequential
  • Running wasted spark for all tests

Here is a video of it running.   https://streamable.com/tnybd

Does anyone have any ideas for what to test, short of another plug wire which im trying to find now?   I've quite frankly run out of ideas.

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I'd sprayed some crc all around it to see if it'd raise the idle, didnt seem to affect it.

That being said I'm not too sure if 556 is actually flamable.  Haven't got any brakeclean left to test with.

 

edit

Seems like its not flamable.  I'll pop down the road and buy another can of brake clean to have another test.

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Nah couldnt find anywhere where it raised the idle when hit with brake clean.  

Seems like the more I run it the worse its getting.  Now got a bit of white smoke out the exhaust.

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You need to balance the throttles.  that cylinder will be sucking in more than the rest.      
I assume you have set the idle by cracking the throttles open?    

whats the rest of your setup.    using any vac?  booster, fuel reg etc.?        tps/alpha n tune?    ecu?
 

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The previous owner of the setup i used had them balanced, but I really need to double check or redo it.  Im suprised that unbalanced throttles would have that affect, then again I have no clue.

Yep throttles cracked open is the idle.

The setup is a TTT 4age adaptor manifold, which has a vacuum port in each runner.  All four are tee'd into a small vacuum block which feeds the brake booster, fuel pressure reg & the MAP sensor on the ecu.

ECU is a ms3pro board, mated to an adaptor plate that someone in the states has designed for easy PNP for MX5s.   I've had to send the ms3pro board back to be RMA'd once, so I'm mildly confident that hardware wise its fine.  Both fuel and timing are alpha-n maps.

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Will be the problem.   they sound just like that when have a lean cylinder.  will missfire and pop out the intake.
Need to do 2 adjustments on 20v throttles.    balance each throttle on its throttle stop .    then there is a 2nd adjustment so all the throttles start to open at the same time.     if they were balanced on the throttle stops and 2nd adjustment wasn't done,  soon as apply throttle via throttle linkage they will go unbalanced.     Also if they have been removed from manifold at any time will likely need rebalancing.      

Have had best results ditching as much of the vac stuff as you can.  Hook up brake booster leave rest disconnected. 
Map sensor - not really any point having it  on alpha n tune.   (ive been out of the ms game for years. does it have a separate sensor for baro correction  or can use map sensor?) 
Fuel reg -   leave the vac disconnected, running a flat fuel pressure is far easier to deal with;  your tune has no idea of map, so your pressure reg shouldn't either
Make sure all 6 ports on the throttles are blocked
Basically any air that doesn't go through the throttle plates and into the  engine is going to give you a bad day. 

Running  baro correction  on the alpha  n tune?

 

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