DIY Fuel injection thread.

[Dudley]

@GARDRB have you looked into the speeduindo range of ecus?

[R3spct]

Anyone find a use for a oldschool Link plug in digital controller? Same as this but screen works as far as I know.

[kpr]

ahh trying to tune with a hand controller in one hand and a wideband in the other,  while trying not to end up in a paddock,  fun times 

[GARDRB]

29 minutes ago, Dudley said:

@GARDRB have you looked into the speeduindo range of ecus?

You reckon I can modify the Speeduino software to look like the link software and confuse him?

[kpr]

the constant trigger issues maybe a give away

[mjrstar]

32 minutes ago, kpr said:

ahh trying to tune with a hand controller in one hand and a wideband in the other,  while trying not to end up in a paddock,  fun times 

A million years ago i did a road tune on a roof chopped mk1 cortina with a pinto with a sideways mounted 471 blower. It went kinda hard on 20psi boost with no windows / interior.

Would not trade again.

My starlet link has ribbon port and would take that controller.

Still would not trade again, it's not 2001 anymore.

[Roman]

3 hours ago, mjrstar said:

In fact @Roman why do your videos not contain ecu data overlay?

I dont like looking at graphs

[xsspeed]

That aren't generated in ms paint

[Stu]

5 hours ago, GARDRB said:

That sounds like overkill, my kind of kill, not a PDM?

Would be really simple to do, just trigger inputs so it knows the engine is rotating and one aux out for the pump

[Roman]

True but we are trying to bully him into buying an ECU

[Nominal]

I dunno what the problem is really

[shrike]

14 minutes ago, Nominal said:

I dunno what the problem is really

LOL I was thinking of just swapping the Fuel pump relay wire thats ground off ecu to be ground to chassis and then every-time the car is turned on the fuel pump is running

4 hours ago, GARDRB said:

You reckon I can modify the Speeduino software to look like the link software and confuse him?

Is this your MAF?
MAF Sensor

Although most users of Haltech ECUs will be deleting the MAF, it is possible to use a MAF if you prefer. It also incorporates an Air Temperature Sensor, so if the MAF Sensor is removed a new Air Temperature Sensor must be installed in the intake.

1UZ Early

The early 1UZ use a Frequency based MAF Sensor.  It is not a normal 0-5V signal.

 

 

 

Pin	OEM Wire Colour	Connection
1	Brown	Signal Ground
2	Yellow/Black	Air Temperature (AVI)
3	Yellow/Green	MAF Signal (SPI or DPI)
4	Blue/Red	5V+
5	Brown	Signal Ground

[GARDRB]

41 minutes ago, shrike said:

Is this your MAF?

 

 

Pin	OEM Wire Colour	Connection
1	Brown	Signal Ground
2	Yellow/Black	Air Temperature (AVI)
3	Yellow/Green	MAF Signal (SPI or DPI)
4	Blue/Red	5V+
5	Brown	Signal Ground

Nah I’ve got the later plastic hot wire AFM so there is no FC switch in it like the earlier AFM if that’s what you’re alluding to?

[Roman]

Could wire the fuel pump to the oil pressure light being off and the "starter" position on the key.

 

[Dudley]

On my 5k I just run the factory mechanical fuel pump, why don’t you just do that?

[GARDRB]

2 hours ago, Dudley said:

On my 5k I just run the factory mechanical fuel pump, why don’t you just do that?

Coz you won't share it with me

[shrike]

So as im sitting in hospital for my daughter im making wiring notes.

Just thought id run it past the hivemind

My battery had been relocated to the boot but I think with the cage I'll move it to be mounted behind the passenger seat. Will try reuse wire where I can

I think from memory it's 0awg sized wiring already used, with Gnd bolted to Chassis via a seatbelt bolt. (I didnt install this it was done when I brought the car);

Battery box also had a Kilswitch on the +side

Current thought is

Positive side

1. Battery terminal to Killswitch (0awg)
2. Killswitch to Bulkhead stud to Engine bay (0awg)
3. Interior side of Bulkhead stud to 120amp ANL fuse then to Nexus R3 (4awg)
4. Engine bay bulkhead stud to Engine bay fuse box (0awg)
5. Engine bay Bulkhead stud to startermotor (I cant remember if the factory wiring is fusebox to Starter (if it is ill do that) 4awg (100amp starter)
6. Pretty sure alternator charging was direct to the battery so ill put that back to the Bulkhead stud as well, will use biggest cable I can fit or maybe dual smaller feeds.

Bulkhead studs should also allow me to jump start from Engine bay if needed etc

May also run but not connect another fused 4awg run to the boot for future expansion off the battery terminal or Killswitch if there is space.

Current fuel pumps won't push more then 15.5amps max so can run both 12awg outputs direct from the ecu to run them (staged)

Ground side

1. Battery Terminal to Bulkhead (0awg)
2. Interior side Bulkhead stud to Nexus R3 (4awg)
3. Battery terminal to Chassis (space allowing) (0awg)
4. Engine side Bulkhead stud to Starter (4awg)
5. Engine side Bulkhead stud to Engine (4awg)
6. Engine side Bulkhead stud to gearbox (4awg)

Engine and Starter ill probably also ground to Chassis in the bay.

Coils ill ground to head, I cant remember where the fuse box is getting the ground source for the relays (need to track down wiring diagram) but if needed to ill ground it to gearbox.

Reason im keeping factory fusebox (ill have spare relays) is id like to keep factory controls for headlights etc and I want to run a relay for the fan (ill also wire in redundancy)

Any of this sound silly or over kill?

Im not bothering with a Bulkhead connector for the ecu loom as ill make the hole big enough to pull connectors though and use a grommet.

Will have the injector and coil looms as sublooms

[h4nd]

When I was last looking at some EFI manuals, they were at pains to point out not to share the battery cable for the ECU (because when starters, fuel pumps, fans pull current, and Alternator pushes current, the grounds change V a little because passing current through a connection with some resistance. All those are choppy and can have short but vicious V spikes that are tricky to measure without an oscilloscope, but can def cause issues). For some sensitive inputs, this can cause subtle and annoying problems.

I seem to remember they recommended running the ECU wires separately to the battery, and that'll be even more important with the remote mounted battery. Best check your EFI manual!

Hope daughter is doing better.

[shrike]

7 minutes ago, h4nd said:

When I was last looking at some EFI manuals, they were at pains to point out not to share the battery cable for the ECU (because when starters, fuel pumps, fans pull current, and Alternator pushes current, the grounds change V a little because passing current through a connection with some resistance. All those are choppy and can have short but vicious V spikes that are tricky to measure without an oscilloscope, but can def cause issues). For some sensitive inputs, this can cause subtle and annoying problems.

I seem to remember they recommended running the ECU wires separately to the battery, and that'll be even more important with the remote mounted battery. Best check your EFI manual!

Hope daughter is doing better.

Shes still asleep but seems to be doing ok atm thankfully

Good point about the battery wire sharing for the ecu, ill double check the Nexus R3 manual but from memory all it said is it needs to have both sides wired to the battery, and ive found a few people running distribution blocks etc for that

Main thing for me is its all coming off the same battery terminal

I can run a separate fused 4awg cable from the battery + terminal  as itll be a short run, was just trying to reduce the amount of cables I run

Edit: yip manual is as per below 

[Roman]

Main thing about voltage fluctuating is to make sure that your injectors and coilpacks are getting power from same-ish supply as the ECU. 

So if the ECU dips to 12.0v, your injectors are also seeing 12.0v so your deadtimes are correct. and to a lesser extent dwell time for coilpacks.