yoeddynz

DIY Fuel injection thread.

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2 hours ago, ajg193 said:

Turns out I wasted all my time and too much $ on the ignition setup. A 30-1 wheel at cam speed on a 4 cylinder doesn't work with the math used by a microsquirt.

 

Straight back to fuel only.

:'(

Can you not just weld two more teeth in... 

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1 minute ago, yoeddynz said:

Can you not just weld two more teeth in... 

images (1).jpeg

They have to be evenly spaced.

 

The part is scrap

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Ooh Oh - on potential injection for imp.. Previous owner had just told me he still has a couple of sidedraft twin weber manifolds and will get me one :-)

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If the new starter motor wasn't interfering with the ignition during cranking and causing the car to flood (rpm spikes, telling ecu to put more fuel in) I wouldn't have any issues with running the fuel only setup. But as it stands my only real option is to either fuck around making another one of those wheels and try again or spend even more money and just install a big ugly wheel and sensor on the front of the crankshaft.

I don't feel good taking the car for a wof when it is just as likely to flood as it is to start when hot.

 

Does anyone know of a place where I can get a crank angle sensor/wheel for cheap? I guess pick a part could be a start. But even then they charge too much for second hand crap.

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Just make one- I made one from 2mm steel disc. Marked out the teeth, cut it with hacksaw and filed smooth. did not take as long as expected and was a nice simple srarngely satisfying wee job to do with music cranked up.

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Is there an edge on the crank pulley that you can cut the teeth directly into? That's what I'm doing on mine since I don't want the tone wheel way out the front

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Do as Alex suggested, you'll be able to file back 2mm more than accurate enough, the backlash in the distributor gearing will give more grief than careful filing.

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I think there's a buffer built into the code anyway. 

Or am I just talking lots of food. 

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can you fit a hall sensor in there to read the orginal 20 tooth wheel?   rather than vr.   

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My next attempt will be to just turn the teeth off and drill holes for a 24-1 or 28-1 pattern (I think I will get more voltage on 24-1 though) and just weld in some 1.6 or 2.4 mm diameter tig filler rods as teeth.

 

In the mean time I put the car back to fuel only and bodged a few settings to make it not overfuel on starting with the ignition noise (ignore first 8 ignition pulses and no afterstart enrichment above 65 Celsius). Seems to have helped a lot, car now starts after the first compression. Not sue how the 8 skipped pulses will affect the cold starting though, but if the noise is the same when the engine is hot or cold then it should be fine.

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With cam speed you get half the resolution compared to crank speed, so it would -probably?- be a good idea to have a few more teeth.

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It really makes no difference. You could run four teeth and still be sweet.

If you're after all the kilowatts and screaming it out to 12k, running sequential injection and CoP then yeah, higher resolution could give you an advantage (depending on the ECU), but otherwise there's no need to overcomplicate things.

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1 hour ago, Yowzer said:

It really makes no difference. You could run four teeth and still be sweet.

If you're after all the kilowatts and screaming it out to 12k, running sequential injection and CoP then yeah, higher resolution could give you an advantage (depending on the ECU), but otherwise there's no need to overcomplicate things.

4 teeth doesn't really give enough accuracy from what I have tried. But then again, I was using an inadequate igniter for that experiment.

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