yoeddynz

DIY Fuel injection thread.

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Chinese LSU 4.9 came today.

 

Looks different to OE 4.9 but works perfectly so far (seems bang on in terms of accuracy, faster warmup time than OE). Will be interesting to see how long it lasts, but can't complain too much at $43.

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On 31/12/2018 at 10:03, Roman said:

Yeah as we had leaded fuel at the time? 

Yup

 

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megasquirt 1 (2.2) question. 

on my old engine i had the radiator fan handled by the ecu no problem, but ever since i switched to the twincam it hadnt worked, (it may just be that this is when i first noticed too)

i had it setup to trigger a relay from the (-) side of LED18. but now when ever i hook up the relay to it it turns the LED off, if it was on. the ecu software is functioning properly switching the output on and off ect. 

i measured voltage at that neg pin and its ~2.5v when the led is off and ~5v when the led is on. it never seems to switch to ground like i thought it was meant to. 

any ideas whats going on here? maybe i fired the transistor somehow. 

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14point7 spartan 2 came today.

 

Pulled out the LC-2 and put the 14point7 in, it's 100x better. There is no signal noise now, the sensors that the LC-2 reckoned were dead work fine, warm-up time is like 15 seconds.

 

I am using closed loop EGO control for the first time now, set with authority of 5%. Seems good so far, map is within 1% in most situations anyway. There is no way I could have used closed loop with the LC-2, it was just too unstable.

Chinese sensor is still working perfectly.

 

Now I just need to find some industrial application for the LC-2 / from my experience they seem reliable enough in low demand environments.

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On 23/01/2019 at 20:34, ajg193 said:

 

Chinese sensor is still working perfectly.

 

As verified by your Chinese sensor :rolleyes:

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Ordered some more parts for my Speedunio (have sold the car it was going into however) also got myself an 8x8 3.5 Teensy setup for sub 300AUD so now have two budget ecus for future projects :)

Going to Japan on Thursday and once I get back will be putting money into my project car thats still in NZ. Will look around for a cheap hack to play with as well haha

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11 hours ago, BlownCorona said:

As verified by your Chinese sensor :rolleyes:

Pretty much,

I wouldn't use it on any high performance vehicle. But it seems to read the same as the Bosch sensor. The tune map hasn't changed.

 

Spark plugs agree with the O2 reading.

 

I also have spare bosch sensors (brand new and slightly used) to put back in the car the moment the chinese one stops working (I give it about 2 months..)

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Not using Speeduino but I've got a spare Teensy 3.6 here that I've mounted the audio processing board on. Will fit my spare canbus backpack on it. 

Will be able to use the audio processing for some knock detection, and hopefully some ion sensing with a burst reading on the ADC on a single cylinder just past an ignition event.

Hoping there's an rpm/load range where there's something interesting from the ion sensing, at the resolution and frequency I'm able to measure it.

one thing on the Link G4+ I've thought is a bit so-so is its knock detection.
I think its silly to detect knock, pull timing, and then just slowly creep the value back up until it knocks again then do same thing over and over.
Like it never builds up a "smart" table it just does the same dumb thing over and over. IT might knock on the same load/rpm 1500 times and it will never change its behaviour. Even if you never turn the engine off (it doesnt store the table) the table it generates even if you ran the engine for say 10 hours doesnt actually show you anything useful as it might be half way through its pull knock / advance timing again in each cell.

So I want to make a long term trim table for knock like OEM stuff does.
Every time it registers short term knock it will take say 0.5 degrees off the long term table. 
Then the next time it gets to that same region it is already 0.5 degrees less total timing instead of just banging its head against the wall over and over.
 

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How would a long term table react to a 'bad' tank of gas? would manual reset be needed? I've pondered the same thing but never had to implement it

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Yeah well another annoyance is things like cutting over ripple strips at trackday can trigger knock sensor. 

Audio detection of knock is a bit ghetto really which is why I'm really hoping I can see ion sensing data with some decent resolution. 

My understanding is that some modern BMWs have a knock detection system that uses just ion sensing.

Some preliminary looky-loos with a scope have shown what looks to be indication of knock on the coilpack return signals. 
But useless if you can only see it on a scope and not in a device which can process it! So just need to make some more progress on hooking it all up.
 

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It's also a bit of a moot point as I can run 50 deg timing well past MBT and not get any knock during cruise conditions. 

God bless lean burn haha

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Have never bothered with ecu knock detection for mostly the same reasons.  Would be nice to have something that works properly,  rather than ignition timing on the conservative side and putting your engines life in the hands of your petrol company of choice.    but in saying that,  if an engine is tuned that close to the edge, maybe pump gas isn't for you.  or shouldn't be lending your car to some monkey who fills it up with 91

@Roman  What does the rpm  signal  look like on your link?  and on timing light?   did toyota step up there game on the beams triggers?     Also wouldn't think you would have any knock issues on your engine?

 

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11 hours ago, ajg193 said:

Spark plugs agree with the O2 reading.

Amazing that you can read 0.1 lamda resolution on the fly from a spark plug

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19 minutes ago, Yowzer said:

Amazing that you can read 0.1 lamda resolution on the fly from a spark plug

You know it.

 

One day next month I will throw the bosch sensor in and compare the values using datalogs.

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3 hours ago, kpr said:

Have never bothered with ecu knock detection for mostly the same reasons.  Would be nice to have something that works properly,  rather than ignition timing on the conservative side and putting your engines life in the hands of your petrol company of choice.    but in saying that,  if an engine is tuned that close to the edge, maybe pump gas isn't for you.  or shouldn't be lending your car to some monkey who fills it up with 91

@Roman  What does the rpm  signal  look like on your link?  and on timing light?   did toyota step up there game on the beams triggers?     Also wouldn't think you would have any knock issues on your engine?

 

When I went to the dyno I found absolutely nothing adding a whole bunch of timing all through the rpm range, and not a single blip of knock.

When I had staged injection running with a blocked injector it just wheezed but nothing blew up. This motor has put up with heaps of punishment haha.

Youre right there are no knock issues on my engine with 98 so I might need to run on some 91 to torture test it. 

Triggers and RPM are nice and stable!

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On 30/01/2019 at 16:02, Roman said:

....indication of knock on the coilpack return signals. 
But useless if you can only see it on a scope and not in a device which can process it! So just need to make some more progress on hooking it all up.
 

Plumb 'scope into dash, and feed thence to ECU? Of anyone, you could 3d-print a surround!

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Hahahaha looking at some sweet sweet waveforms while driving. 

The dream 

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On 09/12/2018 at 21:35, bigfoot said:

I have a link atom 2 and the wiring is doing my head in. Is somebody in auckland able to help me finish it/finish it for me. It is the last thing to do to have my car running. @Roman? @Stu

Car is running and working on making it drivable. Huge thanks to @Roman answering all my stupid questions. Ran the first log tonight, hopefully the changes I made work

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