DIY Fuel injection thread.

[yoeddynz]

what is a load point?

[kpr]

load (megasquirt call it VE becuse they are weirdos) is MAP, TPS, AFM etc..

in that pic of the link map, load is "TPS %" on the Y axis.

rpm across the top, in the x axis

[yoeddynz]

Ok- looks like MS2 can use a variety of different wasted spark setups inc Ford EDIS. How easy is it to get EDIS parts in NZ- particularly V6 units.

Otherwise are there other ways to build units that work in a similar way.

If I went MS3 with expansion board I can go sequential ignition- but this gets expensive. Im not interested in COP as I think they look ugly. yes im that shallow.

[cute wee gem]

EDIS aren't as common here but they are around, I've only seen 4 cylinder ones for sale on TM.

Quick google came up with this, too easy? (I'm not sure if it works with your setup or not?)

Edit: http://www.stratifiedauto.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=66&products_id=202

[yoeddynz]

EDIS aren't as common here but they are around, I've only seen 4 cylinder ones for sale on TM.

Quick google came up with this, too easy? (I'm not sure if it works with your setup or not?)

Edit: http://www.stratifie...products_id=202

Ha- i found tht sight this morning when i was sifting about. They do this direct plug in ECU..

http://www.stratifiedauto.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=66&products_id=209

but its about 700 bucks before freight. I can get a ms2 kit from autotune for under 400 landed.

I'll have to dod some reserch on edis bits.

[Guest yoeddynz]

About to start wiring up my engine to suit the MS2 V3 I have built. I have made a 36-1 trigger wheel which I'll tigweld onto the old 6 tooth pressed steel wheel I have turned down in the lathe.

Now up till now I always thought the crank sensors fitted to the mazda v6 engines I have were VR type (all pre 98 dizzy equiped engines).

But yesterday when moving bits about in my shed I spotted the sensor has 3 wires.. red, green and black...."Oh bugger" I thought.. don't VR sensors only have two wires?....

So are they actually Hall sensors fitted to the front of these engines? If it is a Hall sensor I guess I have to reconfigure the jumper wires in my MS2. I cant remember if there were any other hardware changes I have to make as I just built it up configured to suit a VR sensor.

Does usual square tooth profile on most 36-1 trigger wheels suits VR and Hall sensors equally well? From what I have read Hall sensors give a more stable readout at lower revs?

Edit; having another look at the sensor reveals that the black wire is shielded. I have found out that you can get 3 wire VR sensors. So I connected my voltmeter to the red and green wires and when passing the little metal tip on the sensor over the vice I get a on off reading. From what I understand a Hall sensor needs power to produce any signal at all.

VR? Me thinky it is. I hope.

[Guest kpr]

sounds like vr to me. will get more voltage faster you spin it. hence why they aren't as good at low (cranking) rpm

[Guest yoeddynz]

So it would be better to fit a hall sensor in the future then? what's more common on cars these days?

[Guest kpr]

if you're all setup for vr, just run that, nothing wrong with vr. megasquirt can be picky with vr stuff though. the few megasquirt's ive done. the ones with zeal daughter board on the trigger inputs has worked flawlessly. the ms3 i did worked with the onboard stuff, but not as well

best way is too hook it all up and see what happens with your setup. i'd suggest powering up the ecu on the bench with only the cas connected. spin the cas with a drill or something. watch the rpm readout in tunerstudio. make sure you have solid rpm right down too 200rpm or less (cranking rpm) can use the tooth/trigger loggers to monitor it further. but getting solid rpm reading is the first step

[Guest yoeddynz]

Trigger wheel is quite big to spin up in drill. But could try work something out to test it.

Looking at the ms external wiring diagram I wonder what I do with the extra ground wire..the shielded one? Need to look into this more.

[Guest kpr]

shield wire should be grounded to ecu ground at ecu. long as it isn't ground to the cas body. only ground a shield at 1 end.

can you post up the diagram you are looking at? think i know the one.

[Guest yoeddynz]

I just found this...

"The VR sensor is a very commonly used sensor. Usually it is seen as a two wire sensor although some manufacturers install a screen on the cable, yours may have three wires. In CAS (crank angle sensor) units a multiplug may be used to combine multiple sensors. The sensor itself generates an AC voltage when a piece of steel (the trigger) moves past it. The voltage varies from less than a volt during cranking to tens of volts at higher revs. In order to use a VR sensor a "conditioner" circuit is required to convert the AC voltage into a DC square wave signal while retaining the timing information. The Megasquirt board (not V2.2) has this conditioner built in. One wire from the VR sensor is connected to ground at the Megasquirt and the other connects to the tach input. Ideally use a screened twisted pair cable. If fitted, connect the screen to ground at the Megasquirt end only"

But the picture shown with above text portrays a shield going right round the other two wires? Mine has three wires- the black one being shielded. hmmmmmmm?

[Guest sentra]

can you borrow/take it to someone with a oscilloscope? it makes like 1 second of brainpower to figure it all out with one/unsure how m.s is but on link you need to know the polarity

which also takes 1 second with the scope.

[Guest Testament]

+1 test on the motor or similar with drill

hall effect is definitely better but if you already have the VR and have done the board to suit VR then run with it. 3rd wire is probably sheilding wire/sheath connection if it is a vr sensor?

here is how we tested my one the other day

[Guest yoeddynz]

Ahhhh you employed someone to turn your engine over while you sat and watched the led blink. cunning

I just had a look at the Haynes manual and then another look at the VR cable. The black wire does actually connect to a stainless shield that covers the other two wires. sweet.

I think I know someone with a sillyscope I can try. Otherwise its only two wires that I need to reverse.

[Guest yoeddynz]

In your above video it looks like you are running separate ignition drivers- ie BIP373s but several of them? cant quite make it out.

what im wondering is this. I am using the top of R26,R27,R29 to control 3 BIP373s mounted outside of the case- for 6 cylinder wasted spark. Will the Leds still perform as usual? I have not yet soldered them in. I know that I cant use any of the transisters next to the leds for a programmable outputs as Im already using them the resistors next to them. So I figure the leds wont work in the usual way to show injection,warm up or accel enrichment.

I was hoping to use one of them as a programmable shift light. I have now changed it so Im using IAC1A as a Fan switch. I think I can then use IAC2 for a shift light?

Still sooooooooo much to learn. But its fun!

[Guest Testament]

The setup in the video is for a Chev LS motor running 8cyl wasted spark - BUT the LS coils have built in drivers so the LED outputs just drive those on and off using the MS2 SnS code. also hence we have a 4th LED wired in there

will they perform as usuall? I think if you are using the SnS code they flash with the sparks rather than the "usual" lights for injector banks and fuel pump relay ala standard megasquirt. I'll have to check with my freind who built it up/our wiring diagram to confirm though.

[Guest yoeddynz]

Ahhh sweet. Flashing lights. If only the had a program that would make them do the night rider strip thing.

I installed the firmware, msextra, onto my megasquirt this morning. Was really actually quite exciting as I'm not really much of a computer nerd and am having to get my head around PC after years of being a Mac user. It wouldn't load at first and came up with boot installed thingee?? Looked it up and discovered hat I needed to remove the boot pin thing on the daughter board, then it loaded. Cool.

Gonna watch all the extraefi setup videos on you tube later.

Took the VR sensor into a friends electronic place. They tested it and reckon the red lead is the signal. Hopefully that's right.

[Guest sentra]

you sure have alot of shit to do before nats!!!!

[Guest ProZac]

VR sensors wired backwards cause heeeeaps of issues. A good check to do with simple tools is this:

Set you're multimeter to volts, use a pretty low scale. Hook the leads up to the two VR sensor wires. Get a metal ruler, and place is in the middle of the sensor. Quickly flick the ruler away from the sensor and watch the multimeter. If the voltage reading goes negative, then you have the red lead of your multimeter hooked to the VR+ sensor wire, and the black lead to the VR- wire. If the multimeter reading goes positive, you've got them around the other way.

VR sensors generate a positive voltage as a metal item approaches them, and then switch to a negative voltage as it moves away. By checking you're getting a negative voltage as you move the ruler away from the sensor, you can be sure that it's wired up correctly.