yoeddynz

DIY Fuel injection thread.

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just run a fixed idle? if you need idle up for cold start, run a bypass around the throttle body. have used a/c solenoids to do this in the past. find one with an adjustment on it. control via link temp switch, so it bypasses air till 50-60 deg water temp

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This link auto tune mentioned - at what point did link start using it and what model ecus should I look for? Linkplus? or do earlier LEM version 1-5 units work with it. I think maybe the earliest LEM units can only be tuned by hand controllers?

When using Tps and Alpha N to control the mapping on throttle bodies, rather than Map and Tps, is it just as easy to tune?

In this listing for a link plus it mentions that its setup for a 24-1 trigger. Can i simply change the trigger wheel for a 36-1 and then change settings when plugged in? or does it need to be sent back to link?

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/electronics/auction-544222727.htm

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G4 links have autotune

G3 link's do as well, long as running latest G3 firmware, (which you can do yourself if it isnt)

G2, dont think so. these ecu's are pretty rare anyway

G1 no auto tune. some have narrow band correction, but will end up as a big mess if you try use it as "autotune"

G1 covers up to lem-V5 and linkplus-V14,

lemV4 onwards is laptop tuneable. and from memory all linkplus are laptop tuneable

When using Tps and Alpha N to control the mapping on throttle bodies, rather than Map and Tps, is it just as easy to tune?

not 100% sure what your asking here. take it you're talking ITB's?

if your running itb's you'll want to run:

tps vs rpm (alpha n)

or

map vs rpm + a tps vs rpm ovelay map

that link will need to be sent back to be reconfigured, if you wanted to use on 36-1, only g3+ is software configurable when i comes to triggers.

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that link is mine, i had it changed to suit the 4age, was about $100 back in the day. its just a daughter board swap so i can ask my contacts if they have any boards if you want?

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ok, for itb's. tps vs rpm is what you want to run. most simple and easyer to tune. have ran map+tps vs rpm. wasn't worth the hassle of the extra tuning, setting up vac lines, dampening vac signal etc. when can get them to run pretty much spot on in tps vs rpm.

map vs rpm will not work properly on itb's. but if you're running a single throttle setup, its what you should be running. will work the best and is the easiest to tune

think i said something about pro/cons few pages back?

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Yeah brad mentioned pro and cons. Still to figure which way I go but at least with aftermarket Ecu I can tune either way.

I've been looking more into ms and have been offered a ms1, built up brand new and configured with a base map to suit my kl v6 with pig tail loom in correct colours for $500 The fella, here in nz, bought it via probe forum on one of their bulk buys. He has changed plans and not used it yet going instead to a pnp setup.

Its ms extra on a version 3 board so about as good as ms1 can go. It only has 12x12 table though. Is this a hindrance? Or in the real world not really a problem? If I went ms2 I can get 16x16. But I noticed that even the older links are something like 20x22.

Ms2 is what several are running on their itb equipped klv6 mx5s on miata net and have said that tuning them with the autotune feature on tunerstudio is very simple. I don't think ms1 works or works well with tuner studio?

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You want MS2 as a minimum these days, they don't really cost much extra and you can just mash it into that v3 board. Still $500 seems abit high for a MS1 setup? even with a loom and the base map is irrelevant

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I think ms2 is definitely the way to go- especially to future proof it for future upgrades....... (twin turbos)...

So the tables- 12x12. Is that plenty? It must be ok if so many people have setup up ms over the years.

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it's about an extra $100 for ms2

look here

http://www.diyautotu...8f6913ecfe97f1e

anything from ms1 v2.2 $256usd to ms2 v3.57 for $444usd all made up. you may need to make some changes depending on what sensors, injectors etc. etc. you plan to use.

esp for the ignition - if you are running coil on plug you might need to make one up yourself as it requires extyra circuts usually.

ms1 with the sns (squirt 'n' spark) code seems to work pretty well from what I've seen. but I think we did have that discussion some time ago.

ultimately a couple of hunderd bucks more on the ecu is going to amount to fark all in the scheme of getting it tuned/running right etc. it more depends how much you want to own the wiring and programming and troubleshooting etc. etc.

if you dont want to do all that yourself I'd spend the extra for a link that you can get support for. if you want to diy then go ms of whatever flavour suits - they can all work pretty well at the end of the day if built setup and tuned right.

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+1 to everything spencer said.

pretty sure even the ms1 have moveable rows & columns. so if you place your rpm & load points wisely. can get away with a small table. dont get fooled into thinking bigger table is better. half of the time it just makes it harder to tune. link (g3 onwards) is good in this respect. as you can add/remove columns/rows where you like. megasquirt you have to "move" them, which is less user friendly.

a factory engine doesn't need alot of load/rpm points. but add cams, itb's etc and the VE will change more throughout rpm range, so you end up needing more rpm points to get the afr correct

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example of tps vs rpm tune. pretty stock engine with itb's. if you look at the 3d map you can see straight lines. which means you could easily get away with a smaller map.

tp-rpm.jpg

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hey alex ive got the klze base map sitting on my desk if you want a copy of it, its not too hard to load the base map on them :wink:

ps get a ms2 at least thats what i was going to run with itbs on the kl, but ended up selling as i plan on getting a ms3 with Ms3X expansion V3.57

but if you wait a few months i will be able to get ms products for about retail not these rip of prices that are around 8)

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Yeah I'm keen on the idea of building and learning. I was just thinking that even after saving the money and learning I might end up still for want of a link etc but then my engine setup will be fairly 'stock' in its power delivery ie I have no current plans at this point to add cams with heaps of overlap, really high comp etc. I picture a fairly flat curve on a map is what I mean.

I wonder how come MS only have 12x12 or 16x16? Is it cost related or that they don't think anything extra is needed?

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You can actually run dual tables, i.e. one table for 0-100kpa (idle to full throttle) and then say 100-200kpa (0-14psi boost) with MS

16x16 seems to be plenty for your average engine IMO and most people don't bother to use dual tables..

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12x12 will be fine on your engine

the way i read it, when i was doing ms stuff. they were using or reserving memory for other things. so haven't gone to a bigger table even on ms3. there is a massive thread on the ms3 forums about it. most people just run an overlay map as above, if they need a bigger map

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Well then I think I may go MS2 then. I need to read up about these tables yet as still a touch confused as to what the 12 x 12 etc actually means. Typically I just thought bigger numbers means mucho betterer all round...

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if you wait a few months i will be able to get ms products for about retail not these rip of prices that are around 8)

cheers for offer but Im hopefully going to have this running for oldschool nats 2013 (so long as I stop procrastinating and spend more time working on it rather than surfing the net etc......)

from what I have found diyautotune seem pretty good on pricing?

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yeh diy autotune is the place to buy them from

if you look at that pic i posted above, thats 9x20 table, so 9 load points x 20 rpm points.

n/a you dont need many load points. but more rpm point can be helpful

basically the smallest map to get correct afr is best. as its easiest to tune.

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