yoeddynz

DIY Fuel injection thread.

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works in any mode. but if its g1 wouldn't even bother to switch it on. they dont have a wideband input, so it would be doing it off narrow band. pretty much running it closed loop then saving the changes its made after driving it. ends up pretty messy from memory.

better off to manual tune unless its a newer link. got a few alpha n maps you could check out, to give you an idea

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Sweet might send the guys at link an e-mail then closer to the time

yes i assume its a G1 link plus.

Havnt actually seen the ECU yet.

And yeah running 20v throttles so will see how these dash pots work.

you guys are the bestest

but yeah I agree. A narrow band tune would be pretty pointless.

I have lot of reading to do i think, as I havnt really read into whats involved into tuning an ECU. I get the concepts, but without knowning exactly how these work, I dont know how well I will do.

As someone mentioned. maybe I should bring my car up to you Mr KPR once its all together

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We'll tune them together Al. Over Skype. And have BBQ and beer. Make it fun. I'll just wind up every dial to number eleven and go for max power.

Brad- I'm really keen on trying the stock Ecu first. At least to get it running. But two things with it that I'm not sure on;

If I make a manifold that is say half way length between the longest and shortest runners in the stock one and then remove the VRIS air valve solenoids will the Ecu throw the toys from its cot? Or will it just continue on. I am figuring that the Fuel maps are based around different airflows into the engine at certain revs? I have no idea on this. I should probe some probe owners...

And the other thing is the big ugly restrictive VAF meter. I can deal with it to start with but would love to see that gone eventually and have a less restrictive hot wire or map. But I have looked into this swap and it's not as easy (for me) as I would like. Involves more electrickery with lots of tiny things that let smoke out if they blow up.

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changing inlet manifolds will mess with the tune a bit. but how much depends what setup its running. shouldn't be to bad with your stock ecu/ afm, as you're measuring the amount of air going into the engine. will effect map sensor setup a little more since its just reading manifold pressure. alpha n would be affected the worst since its only measuring throttle position.

should run on the stock ecu ok. dont expect it to be perfect though. the more you change stuff, inlet and exhaust manifolds, cams etc.. the more you are changing the ve peaks and dips over the rpm range. so the stock ecu will be less than optimal

seedy, yeh wouldn't mind tuning it! but maybe not worth the hassle to bring all the way up here. hit me up either way, should be able to make you up a base map to you started anyway.

quick rundown after you have some kinda base map,

adjust the master fuel- to get it started and running and ballpark for injector size - very course tuning

adjust row fuel - can do the high vacuum stuff free reving it in driveway- then take it for a drive- adjust row at a time, try run it up the rpm, through the middle of each row - adjust till afr is ballpark ish

both of the above shouldn't take long

move onto tuning each cell. try sit it in the middle of each cell and adjust till afr is correct. even if you just tune ever 2nd cell on the road. then go back over the map smooth it out. and repeat.

^ tuning the cells can take ages, depending how picky you are about getting the afr bang on.

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[thread jack]

While on the topic of ECU's (and *JZ's)

For a dedicated track (circuit) car, why would you choose an ECU that can do full sequential Fuel / Ign (say a Link G4 Extreme, Vipec V88, Motec M800 or DTA80)

over one that could only do Waste Spark and Batch / Semi-Seq Fuel (say Link G4 Storm (even the Atom), Vipec V44 or DTA60)

Ignoring all the bells and whistles (data logging / traction control / boost control / blah blah blah), obviously even an 'old tech' LinkPlus can do the job....

[/thread jack]

sorry for the 'jack yoeddynz - looking forward to see the viva's next incarnation - my 2c ITB's and Alpha-N

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[thread jack]

While on the topic of ECU's (and *JZ's)

For a dedicated track (circuit) car, why would you choose an ECU that can do full sequential Fuel / Ign (say a Link G4 Extreme, Vipec V88, Motec M800 or DTA80)

over one that could only do Waste Spark and Batch / Semi-Seq Fuel (say Link G4 Storm (even the Atom), Vipec V44 or DTA60)

Ignoring all the bells and whistles (data logging / traction control / boost control / blah blah blah), obviously even an 'old tech' LinkPlus can do the job....

[/thread jack]

sorry for the 'jack yoeddynz - looking forward to see the viva's next incarnation - my 2c ITB's and Alpha-N

yeh only if you wanted to do something fancy, like outboard injection. where you would want to run staged sequential injection, so can control injector timing.

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sorry for the 'jack yoeddynz - looking forward to see the viva's next incarnation - my 2c ITB's and Alpha-N

Nah it's fine- I intended this thread to be for anyone who, like me, is a newbie at fuel infection. Keep the questions coming!

Question 7,

Why do some engines have both crank angle sensor and cam angle sensors fitted? Even cars without variable valve timing.

And what's with crank trigger setups- is there a standard type sensor that most use or are there different systems out there. If so what's best?

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will get a more accurate engine position with a crank sensor. since you dont have cam belt stretch etc. but you still need a cam sensor depending on injection/ignition setup..so the ecu knows where tdc is on the correct cycle. this is needed to run cop/sequential injection.

crank sensor will usually be multi tooth,

cam sensor will usually be a single tooth

a 12 tooth crank sensor with a single tooth on the cam, would work the same as dual wheel 24tooth + single tooth cam sensor

some run vr sensors. magnets with metal trigger wheel that runs past to produce voltage. toyota, some mazda usually run a denso setup.

others run optical (hall) sensor. with a slotted wheel, sensor sends pulse each slot. far cleaner signal. but more to go wrong., nissans and mitsi run them

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These DTA Fast ecu's are simple and good - a lot of guys use them in the UK. I know about them because they are supplied in plug and play throttle body kits for the Opel C20XE.

The base model should be able to do what you need to if running semi-sequential and wasted spark on the 6 cylinder and seems to be a reasonable price. You could try buy them ex-UK too, if you want to try beat VAT/GST.

http://www.msel.co.nz/epages/motorsportelectronics.sf/en_NZ/?ObjectPath=/Shops/motorsportelectronics/Categories/Engine_Mangement

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What's the deal with Ecu plugs. Do most looms come plug less and you add plugs to suit various bits on the engine. I gather that most plugs are not standard and it's a case of getting all new ones? Or do the pins come out easy enough to change wires to suit.

I have found two things I might be able to use if I go aftermarket. First off is the sensor on my dizzy. I think it's a hall sensor? When I Turn the dizzy I can feel magnetic resistance just after the 'trigger' wheel passes it.

P1060708.jpg

I figure this could be gutted and I make some sort of pick up as the cam angle sensor.. If I need one.

And the front crank pulley area has a provision for a sensor.

P1060719.jpg

The trigger wheel that is on the back of the pulley has only 6 points. I was told that the more points, ie 36, the more accurate the position of crank can be worked out by Ecu? And that the trigger tooth count must be dividable by number of cylinders.

What' type of sensor is used to pick up the missing teeth? And are the sensors a standard size? The fella who lent me the gbox said that he uses a abs sensor off a Subaru and made his own pickup wheel (for his turbo charged Sachs rotary powered bike project he is building swoon..)

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if you're making a loom for aftermarket ecu. cutting the plugs off standard loom. with wire tails, then solder and heat shrink onto loom provided, with the aftermarket ecu. is what most people do.

will be a vr (variable reluctance) sensor.

how many teeth you need on trigger wheel, will depend on what ignition and injection you want to run

if running dizzy you can get away with a simple trigger like your 6 tooth one. since ecu doesnt need to know which cyinder to fire, just when to fire.

wasted spark. will need at least some kind of missing tooth trigger wheel, ecu needs to know which cylinder, but doesnt need to know if its on compression or exhaust stroke

coil on plug. you will need to 2 trigger wheels, a single tooth wheel that needs to camshaft driven so engine knows what stroke cylinder is on. plus multi tooth wheel on crank or cam, so ecu knows which cylinder to fire.

the abs sensor will be a vr sensor, come in all shapes in sizes. have used abs sensors off a rx7 before. worked fine

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hey guys, another question

So with my 2JZ, i have a question about stepper motor idle control

Whats the deal with tuning these up? is it possible etc?

Basicly I was looking at running a factory 2jz ECU to start with to get it going for wag nats, however it would seem I dont actually have an ECU to start with, just a loom. So am now thinking of getting my ECU moddied to suit the 2jz, but as stated, just worried about idle stepper motor control etc

Thanks guys, any help would be great!

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had a quick look in manual. can control stepper. but says something about needing to have the correct module in the link, for 4 or 6 wire stepper. probably best to ask link about it, if it has to get reconfigured for the 2j

i'd be looking into getting a g4 if all the above has to be done by link. g1's seem to go for decent money. so might not be much more to upgrade to a g4.

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