M.H. Posted March 27, 2019 Share Posted March 27, 2019 1 minute ago, ajg193 said: What car are you making? 2 hours ago, kws said: 2.8 Cologne V6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajg193 Posted March 27, 2019 Share Posted March 27, 2019 Just now, 00quattro00 said: I still want to see the car though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kws Posted March 27, 2019 Share Posted March 27, 2019 Currently irrelevant, I just need to know if the conversion can be done. Be a good use of my spare Speeduino if it can. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M.H. Posted March 27, 2019 Share Posted March 27, 2019 43 minutes ago, kws said: My photo of the injectors seem to indicate that they may also use a removable seat, albeit not screw in. Cant find much info on that, but still looking. Maybe i can turn the ID on them down to fit standard injectors, and retain them with the factory style clamp, and use hoses off the injectors to a remote rail. Thats pretty much the only option unless you make a new manifold 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajg193 Posted March 28, 2019 Share Posted March 28, 2019 So I made the 24-1 distributor trigger, it works fine. I just cut all 29 teeth off the wheel using my barry lathe and then used a mill at uni to drill 23 holes and welded in 2.4 mm diameter tig rod as teeth. Instead of welding it onto the shaft I made the shaft slightly larger with some weld, turned it down so that it was a little bigger than the wheel and then blasted the wheel with heat and placed it over the shaft. Perfect interference shrink fit. I was having issues with the car cranking slow some times, not cranking at all other times, cranking moderately fast some times and starter motor smoking, and ignition interference while cranking. I pulled out the new starter motor and put in my original starter that I rebuilt the solenoid on and it cranks twice as fast, with no interference and uses half the power and doesn't smoke. Car starts nicely now - just need to play with the cranking advance and cranking fuel values to get them right again. Hopefully they will take the new starter back. It was interfering with my ignition from day one, and was what made me make the ecu controlled ignition system. 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted March 28, 2019 Author Share Posted March 28, 2019 Top job! Cool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sambo Posted April 11, 2019 Share Posted April 11, 2019 I've always wondered with the Plug n play ECUs: if you just cut the engine plugs off the loom, could you use them on any engine? Like, take a plugin S15 Link, and use it to run a 4AGE? Other than the connectors, are they actually different? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted April 11, 2019 Share Posted April 11, 2019 On 25/03/2019 at 08:37, ajg193 said: But also, crank triggers are absolutely disgusting on this type of engine. You know it's a K series, right? It's already as disgusting as it can get 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajg193 Posted April 11, 2019 Share Posted April 11, 2019 32 minutes ago, Yowzer said: You know it's a K series, right? It's already as disgusting as it can get Why are you always such a cunt? 1 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted April 12, 2019 Share Posted April 12, 2019 6 hours ago, Sambo said: I've always wondered with the Plug n play ECUs: if you just cut the engine plugs off the loom, could you use them on any engine? Like, take a plugin S15 Link, and use it to run a 4AGE? Other than the connectors, are they actually different? no reason why you couldn't. can all be reconfigured in software 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris r Posted April 12, 2019 Share Posted April 12, 2019 I guess it'll depend on their trigger (cam crank etc) inputs and if you can change stuff. If its a link I guess you can change stuff 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted April 12, 2019 Share Posted April 12, 2019 Yeah it depends, sometimes if it something like a powerfc then it'll have specific things to work with specific OEM parts. For example you can use a 1ZZFE ECU on a redtop beams 3SGE engine, but you need to use the 1ZZ coilpacks or it doesnt work. As the return signal from the coilpacks is different. No such problem on a Link or Haltech etc, but again, sometimes they have bespoke options like the BEAN protocol thing to make the fuel gauge etc work in the Altezza plug and play. (A feature that the wire in ECUs dont have, so people actually bodge these into other Toyotas that would otherwise benefit from a wire in) TL;DR: It's a lot of work for not much benefit unless its a special case. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sambo Posted April 12, 2019 Share Posted April 12, 2019 Cheers, I'm not seriously looking just yet, but I occasionally see plug and play ECUs advertised for quite a bit less than equivalent wire in options. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kws Posted April 12, 2019 Share Posted April 12, 2019 I feel like a plug in would have less io connections than a wire in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted April 13, 2019 Share Posted April 13, 2019 the nissan plug in links ive done, s15 etc. have had plenty of spare io's on them on the factory loom. plus you can buy and expansion loom/plug for them was talking link specific in my previous post btw 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajg193 Posted September 7, 2019 Share Posted September 7, 2019 Ling post: Chinese wideband O2 sensor still going hard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted September 7, 2019 Share Posted September 7, 2019 On 12/04/2019 at 10:48, ajg193 said: Why are you always such a cunt? Humour mostly 2 2 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted September 9, 2019 Share Posted September 9, 2019 On 07/09/2019 at 17:59, ajg193 said: Ling post: Chinese wideband O2 sensor still going hard i mean, the most we can say is that its still kicking out a voltage. who knows if its the right voltage. probably less of a concern for a little N/A engine, but fuck taking that chance on something where AFRs actually matter. in other news has anyone come across a solid state PDM thats back yard budget friendly? id love to use one but the cheapest ive found is 300 usd plus freight. (thats probably really cheap compared to motorsport spec $3000) is it something you diy? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted September 9, 2019 Share Posted September 9, 2019 Look up Infineon Profets if you want to DIY yourself into oblivion / have 3000 hours to spare. But honestly $300 USD is pretty epic for PDM. Is it run by CAN? Got a link? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted September 9, 2019 Share Posted September 9, 2019 Also, there is a new spartan wideband which is using a new sensor called the LSU-ADV which supposedly has 7ms response time AKA its bloody fast canbus as well so no ground offset errors. Want want want https://www.14point7.com/products/spartan-3-adv 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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