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DIY Fuel injection thread.


yoeddynz

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43 minutes ago, kws said:

My photo of the injectors seem to indicate that they may also use a removable seat, albeit not screw in. Cant find much info on that, but still looking. Maybe i can turn the ID on them down to fit standard injectors, and retain them with the factory style clamp, and use hoses off the injectors to a remote rail.

Thats pretty much the only option unless you make a new manifold

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So I made the 24-1 distributor trigger, it works fine. I just cut all 29 teeth off the wheel using my barry lathe and then used a mill at uni to drill 23 holes and welded in 2.4 mm diameter tig rod as teeth. Instead of welding it onto the shaft I made the shaft slightly larger with some weld, turned it down so that it was a little bigger than the wheel and then blasted the wheel with heat and placed it over the shaft. Perfect interference shrink fit.

 

I was having issues with the car cranking slow some times, not cranking at all other times, cranking moderately fast some times and starter motor smoking, and ignition interference while cranking. I pulled out the new starter motor and put in my original starter that I rebuilt the solenoid on and it cranks twice as fast, with no interference and uses half the power and doesn't smoke. Car starts nicely now - just need to play with the cranking advance and cranking fuel values to get them right again.

 

Hopefully they will take the new starter back. It was interfering with my ignition from day one, and was what made me make the ecu controlled ignition system.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I've always wondered with the Plug n play ECUs: if you just cut the engine plugs off the loom, could you use them on any engine? Like, take a plugin S15 Link, and use it to run a 4AGE? 

 

Other than the connectors, are they actually different?

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6 hours ago, Sambo said:

I've always wondered with the Plug n play ECUs: if you just cut the engine plugs off the loom, could you use them on any engine? Like, take a plugin S15 Link, and use it to run a 4AGE? 

 

Other than the connectors, are they actually different?

 

no reason why you couldn't.  can all be reconfigured in software

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Yeah it depends, sometimes if it something like a powerfc then it'll have specific things to work with specific OEM parts.
For example you can use a 1ZZFE ECU on a redtop beams 3SGE engine, but you need to use the 1ZZ coilpacks or it doesnt work. As the return signal from the coilpacks is different. 
No such problem on a Link or Haltech etc, but again, sometimes they have bespoke options like the BEAN protocol thing to make the fuel gauge etc work in the Altezza plug and play. 
(A feature that the wire in ECUs dont have, so people actually bodge these into other Toyotas that would otherwise benefit from a wire in)

TL;DR: It's a lot of work for not much benefit unless its a special case.

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the nissan plug in links  ive done,  s15 etc.  have had plenty of spare io's on them on the factory loom.  plus you can buy and expansion loom/plug for them

was talking link specific in my previous post btw 

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  • 4 months later...
On 07/09/2019 at 17:59, ajg193 said:

Ling post:

Chinese wideband O2 sensor still going hard

i mean, the most we can say is that its still kicking out a voltage. who knows if its the right voltage. 

probably less of a concern for a little N/A engine, but fuck taking that chance on something where AFRs actually matter.

 

in other news

has anyone come across a solid state PDM thats back yard budget friendly? id love to use one but the cheapest ive found is 300 usd plus freight. (thats probably really cheap compared to motorsport spec $3000) is it something you diy?

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