NickJ Posted November 15, 2017 Share Posted November 15, 2017 28 minutes ago, ajg193 said: I too am interested in some sort of fuse/relay box. Been thinking about going to pick a part to get something but not sure if that would be ideal Go Soviet: https://ladapower.com/catalog/niva-1600/electric/lada-niva-1600-fuse-box-fuses-oem-10-fuses-673-detail Cheap as kalashnikov comrade Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajg193 Posted November 15, 2017 Share Posted November 15, 2017 Want something OEM looking, holding relays too and not having ugly wiring surrounding it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted November 15, 2017 Share Posted November 15, 2017 yeah i mostly want it for the relays, as if need be i can fit fused relays. problem with OEM, i have the fusebox from the car my engine came out of, an 80s corona GT, and although on top it looks fine albeit a little big. it has propriety plugs on the bottom and no simple way to wire the relays and fuses in a custom way. though if you find an oem option that does work this way do let me know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted November 15, 2017 Share Posted November 15, 2017 Pretty sure that if you depin those plugs they are just normal spade terminals? If you are talking about the rectangular relay box in the engine bay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted November 15, 2017 Share Posted November 15, 2017 This is a fairly compact fuse/relay box but you'll have a shitfest of wires coming out the bottom.https://www.aliexpress.com/item/6-Way-Auto-fuse-box-assembly-with-5Pin-40A-relay-and-fuses-Auto-car-insurance-tablets/32589992233.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.MDBv7V 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted November 15, 2017 Share Posted November 15, 2017 That's one of the only options that I've found, wasn't too keen on China spec stuff powering my entire car but I may have to get one and swap out the hardware. I don't see why I would have any more wiring than any other option? I'm pretty sure they have a cover on the bottom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted November 16, 2017 Share Posted November 16, 2017 Relays in the appropriate places have fixed all Problems, once again thanks all that provided their help! I've just done it all with fly leads to confirm the fix and will now look into a proper relay box and wire it with correct gauge wiring etc. One step closer to boost cruising! 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
downtrail Posted November 17, 2017 Share Posted November 17, 2017 I normally just mount them all on a piece of perspex and screw it in somewhere. I have actually bought in a fuse box same as the one roman put up. Just got it bare with terminals and have to say its not bad at all and im sure itll find its way into something. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted November 17, 2017 Share Posted November 17, 2017 i ordered one of those boxes so im glad to hear the good reveiw. i currently have the relays sort of strapped together and although i could make a bracket, the nice box will make it easier and neater. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted November 19, 2017 Share Posted November 19, 2017 Yeah I just wired in one of those fuse boxes and it's come up really good. It doesnt show on the pics but it's got a bottom cover as well so there arent wires spewing everywhere. It's tidied up stuff under my dash considerably. (But my wiring still looks like garbage) I've been on a rewiring mission to tidy things up as well as having lost 16kg worth of junk from the car so far. Engine is nearly ready to start again, will be really interesting to see the cam timing / MAF / MAP / exhaust pressure relationship. Just running MAF in observation mode for starters to build a calibration for it. But it's exciting to see some new sensors coming to life 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted November 19, 2017 Share Posted November 19, 2017 these look legit https://www.bluesea.com/products/category/16/61/Fuse_Blocks/ST_Blade I wish I found this stuff before I re did the wiring on the fiat lol. what a mare. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajg193 Posted November 25, 2017 Share Posted November 25, 2017 Barometric compensation: How much of an effect does altitude have on an EFI engine? From my days flying I know that with a carb the mixture richens up significantly with altitude and thus leaning out is required. I've just installed a second MAP sensor on the Starlet, taking a reading directly from the airbox (post-filtration to minimize risk of contamination - reading seems to be pretty stable under all operating loads so it seems like a reasonable location). I've yet to climb any big hills with it to set the compensation table. Have any of you guys done this on your cars? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuel Posted November 26, 2017 Share Posted November 26, 2017 An EFI engine can usually estimate the altitude and compensate - some have on board sensors on the ECU and some just figure it out by the amount of air passing through the air flow meter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajg193 Posted November 26, 2017 Share Posted November 26, 2017 Looks like the car needed about 0.7% less fuel at 400 m when compared to sea level, so the addition of the barometer seems to be somewhat useful. I'll do some more adjusting using the baro table on the trip up to Auckland this week, there are a fair few decent climbs on the way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted November 26, 2017 Share Posted November 26, 2017 If it's running a MAP sensor wouldn't that compensate on its own? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajg193 Posted November 26, 2017 Share Posted November 26, 2017 From what I can tell, an engine draws vacuum relative to atmospheric - thus it will show a different MAP value for the same loading condition when at different altitudes. By using barometric correction you can minimize/eliminate this problem. Ie you might be at 60 kPa abs. when cruising at 3,000 rpm at sea level. If you climb to 1000 m asl then you could potentially be at 50 kPa abs. for the same loading condition - thus putting you in a different part of the tune map. It gets kind of tricky to think about. I'm not too sure how the megasquirt would cope with huge changes in MAP at idle speed when up at high altitude. I would also assume that the change of MAP at altitude isn't linear as you certainly can't pull a vacuum below 0 kPa abs, so the rate of change in MAP would decrease with an increase in altitude. Also you would have tuned your car for max power at a MAP of 100 kPa (or thereabouts), if you are at high altitude then you may only reach 85 kPa at max throttle - potentially putting you near your cruise section of your fuel table and running too lean for the throttle settings, requiring more fuel. But then also the volumetric efficiency of the engine would also change with the atmospheric pressure, causing more buggery. hmmmmm /Rambling on with incoherent thoughts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snorkpipe Posted November 26, 2017 Share Posted November 26, 2017 From my understanding MAP sensors measure absolute pressure, that being pressure above a total vacuum (like in space). Bearing that in mind, they should self correct for altitude in an NA application, and the point is moot in a forced induction application. If you've mapped for partial load using MAP, then the ECU will theoretically use that part of the map even at WOT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted November 26, 2017 Share Posted November 26, 2017 Play around with it, I'm keen to see some results. Make sure to produce many graphs 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajg193 Posted November 26, 2017 Share Posted November 26, 2017 Looks like if I just set the fuel calculation mode to "percent baro" it should rescale the fueling to continually use the entire VE table under all conditions. Apparently Lycoming engineers reckon that a barometric correction table is not really needed as the fueling should be within 5% of calculated for all realistically encounterable conditions. So I'll try that and see how it goes on the trip up to Auckland: Barometric correction off, primary fuel load: Percent Baro Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted November 26, 2017 Share Posted November 26, 2017 only need to run baro correction in alpha n (load = tps) . since the ecu only knows how far the throttle/s are open. not the actual air flow or manifold pressure Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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