sentra Posted January 19, 2017 Share Posted January 19, 2017 ring gear? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted January 19, 2017 Share Posted January 19, 2017 Grind a tooth off? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sentra Posted January 19, 2017 Share Posted January 19, 2017 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
downtrail Posted January 20, 2017 Share Posted January 20, 2017 On 18/01/2017 at 10:12, Firetruck said: Does anyone here have the ability to cut a tone wheel into my crank pulley? There's not really a way to bolt one to it so figured making use of the back flange is the tidiest option.   I can do you something like this if you require   That was for a 4g63. to run with a gt101 hall effect sensor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuel Posted January 21, 2017 Share Posted January 21, 2017 Where is the missing tooth so the ECU knows it is at TDC? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
downtrail Posted January 21, 2017 Share Posted January 21, 2017 Use a single tooth on cam for sync. Then you can run direct spark and sequential injection. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted January 22, 2017 Share Posted January 22, 2017 I wonder if I could space the crank pulley out gar enough to fit a bolt on wheel behind it... And what negitave impact that could have. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
downtrail Posted January 22, 2017 Share Posted January 22, 2017 You would have space out everything else on the motor to match. Alternator, Waterpump etc, If your going to add on a ring i'd make it fit the o/d of the rear flange and add it on that way. means you'd have to make new timing marks but no big deal. Or just get the tooth pattern machined into the rear flange. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted January 22, 2017 Share Posted January 22, 2017 Downtrail, is that pulley you showed a balancer one too? If so how did you get on with crank signal at higher rpm? I know it is a therotical no no, but if you actually did it and it worked fine then sweet, or did you just not give a fuck, and she'll be right mate? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
downtrail Posted January 22, 2017 Share Posted January 22, 2017 11 hours ago, Rookie said: Downtrail, is that pulley you showed a balancer one too? If so how did you get on with crank signal at higher rpm? I know it is a therotical no no, but if you actually did it and it worked fine then sweet, or did you just not give a fuck, and she'll be right mate?  Ha yeah I though the same at first but the signal scopes out cleanly to red line 7500rpm for that motor, Yes it is a balencer type, Initially I had A few problems with extra trigger events but that was just due to the air gap being too small. So the sensor was moved back half a mm from where i had it and it has been fine.  This is the rest of how its set up.    Here is the cam. Just syncs on the head of a cap screw.  9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted January 23, 2017 Share Posted January 23, 2017 I can't really imagine there'd be more movement in the crank pulley than there is currently on the cam driven dizzy pickups, and I'd like to ditch the dizzy for wasted spark, so might give it a crack regardless. Can always change back later if it doesn't work well enough. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickJ Posted January 23, 2017 Share Posted January 23, 2017 Looks like the Niva is getting a Speeduino, let the fun begin  2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted January 23, 2017 Share Posted January 23, 2017 I have heard the problem is wander rather than loss of sync, I guess it depends on application, but with a ragged edge tune and 3 degress or more would easily be enough to grenade a motor. anyway, you have both sides of the coin now, so take it as you will. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
downtrail Posted January 24, 2017 Share Posted January 24, 2017 Its a giving that timing will wander on any ecu. And with certain trigger setups timing will wander more than others. It comes down to how quickly the ecu can decode the trigger routine. It will more often retard its self. So theres normally setups to combat this usually called hardware latency. You can use this to offset the amount of retard happening at high rpm due to the time taken for the ecu it's self to figure out where it is in time and space.   Now if your talking timing scatter thats a whole different beast altogether, and is usually caused by too higher resolution of the trigger wheel. The Nissan 360 deg cam sensor is notorious for this problem. Take the combination of a timing event happening every degree and a heavy valve train rocking back and forward pushing and pulling on the cam belt and all of a sudden your timing goes nuts as the cam sensor bounces back and forwards with it.  So if you look at my wheel and take into account that yes there is slight movement due to the rubber isolation but that movement isn't enough to cause a significant change in when the trigger event should happen due to the resolution of the wheel timing scatter will not happen with it. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuel Posted January 30, 2017 Share Posted January 30, 2017 The mid 90s RVR had a factory trigger wheel attached to the crank and cam sprockets, am wondering if that could have been used instead? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
downtrail Posted January 31, 2017 Share Posted January 31, 2017 On 30/01/2017 at 16:33, fuel said: The mid 90s RVR had a factory trigger wheel attached to the crank and cam sprockets, am wondering if that could have been used instead? Yes but it is very low resolution. 2 teeth per crank revolution. Not good enough for what I wanted to do with that motor. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickJ Posted February 6, 2017 Share Posted February 6, 2017 Been putting the wideband kit together, just need to sort out a cable from the sensor to the unit, is 7 core trailer cable ok or does it require shielding? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted February 6, 2017 Author Share Posted February 6, 2017 Not sure.. I don't think the wideband wiring is sheilded but if in doubt pop to a wreckers and cut out a load of engine bay wiring to use. You'll get decent plugs too. use the wideband wiring from a wband  equipped car. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickJ Posted February 7, 2017 Share Posted February 7, 2017  10 hours ago, yoeddynz said: Not sure.. I don't think the wideband wiring is sheilded but if in doubt pop to a wreckers and cut out a load of engine bay wiring to use. You'll get decent plugs too. use the wideband wiring from a wband  equipped car. Darn good thinking there, might have to put together a shopping list, with the speeduino turning up, I need to organise all the associated cabling, gadgets and whatsits too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickJ Posted March 11, 2017 Share Posted March 11, 2017 Almost a month ago the 14point7 wideband kit turned up, finally got off my arse and got it running, for the sensor lead I just brought 2m of 7 core trailer wire, pick a part wanted $30 for sections of loom! As I haven't got the Niva running yet, I swapped the wideband sensor into the girlfriends Caldina for a test run and all seems operational. Now with a weekend of terrible weather i'll get the speeduino together with what parts I can scrounge from my drawer of goodies. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.