oldmatedan Posted August 1, 2014 Share Posted August 1, 2014 Hey danger.... What are the ins and outs of the high steer kit? U make it urself? In the process of homework for jacking a landcruiser so body and sus lift will be on the cards as will massive mud chuckers The pic of your weldy weldy pricked my interest Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danger Posted August 1, 2014 Author Share Posted August 1, 2014 I bought a kit with the arms, rods, rod ends etc and bought a mounting kit seperate. If I were to do it again I would just make my own mounting brackets. To be honest it's a prick of a job. I still need to mount the arms and rods etc which isn't a big job. Also need to weld a bracket under the chassis for a steering damper mount. If I had an oxy acetylene plant and could gas axe off the old mount it would have taken half the time. Also if I were to do it again I'd remove the radiator Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danger Posted August 11, 2018 Author Share Posted August 11, 2018 Ok so four years later I've decided to look at this again. Need to raise some money so going to finish the fabrication, get it running and flick it off. Got hoops being bent up to fab the front shock hoops to fit the 12" bilsteins I bought. Gonna give the engine a birthday, hand paint some of the chassis and diffs and perhaps weld up rear diff. Maybe blow the truck over with a quick coat of paint. Removing the factory shock mounts was a shit job with the cab and only a 4" grinder but oh well. I imagine certing all the fab work from 5 years previous would be a bitch? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danger Posted August 11, 2018 Author Share Posted August 11, 2018 Also any idea of value on this thing? Originally I was thinking 4 for it but running, reg on hold and no cert but fabrication finished 6k? 2.8L non turbo. Rebuilt front knuckles and bearings, strengthened diff housing, rear leaves up front with front mounts lowered 2" to correct pinion angle. LSD in front. Custom shock hoops and new long travel bilsteins. Rear shock mounts from the centre, reinforced rear end and tow points all around. Rough but solid body and interior. Brand new 35s on 15x10s Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Transom Posted August 11, 2018 Share Posted August 11, 2018 Front axle torque arm removed completely ? Makes for interesting braking if it's gone ... like truck goes to the left and steering wheel goes to the right ... or does the high steer kit remove that problem ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danger Posted August 11, 2018 Author Share Posted August 11, 2018 Should remove it as well as bumpsteer. Crossover steering involves swapping the original forward-backward steering box that created that issue for a left-right IFS surf box Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danger Posted August 14, 2018 Author Share Posted August 14, 2018 Got a little side tracked today building this rear bar with salvage hooks and removal tow bar. Heavy as fuck, all from recycled steel I had around the place except for the towbar box section. Feels good to be working on things whilst getting rid of stuff I've hoarded. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post danger Posted September 5, 2018 Author Popular Post Share Posted September 5, 2018 So yeah I've done a bit more work to this which I'll post later but figured I may as well record the issue and solution I had with my injector pump. I fired the ute up for the first time in 5 years and it was as if the throttle was stuck open. No obvious things like overfull oil level, jammed throttle cable etc and I could turn it off from the key so had to be the injector pump. Seems no mechanics attempt to work with these themselves, I got a quote from an injection specialist of $1600+GST to rebuild the pump... So I had a go at it myself. Issue is the governor link was seized on the pivot shaft. The little spring was fully compressed and it took a decent amount of force with a screwdriver to pry it open. There was still too much resistance on the shaft so I removed the governor link and soaked it in CRC for a few hours till it freed up completely. The governor link was held in by some triangular (dont fuck with me) bolts so I welded up 3 points of an old 6pt 14mm socket then drilled the centre to suit. All done now and back together, will slap it back in with a new timing belt and tensioner tomorrow. 10 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danger Posted September 5, 2018 Author Share Posted September 5, 2018 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.