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Beaver's Datsun 120y coupe


Beaver

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Right, so I done gone and brought me a new vehicle

(well technically its not mine until I go get it in two weeks but Im going to claim it anyway, have booked flight and ferry so that counts right?)

1975 Datsun 120Y Coupe, 119xxxkms , 3 owners from new (2 in the same family), fully restored in early 2000's, head has been rebuilt and port and polished, recent overhaul of brakes and steering. 100% original full nana spec etc (well in this case grand-dad spec. Never been driven in the rain.....seriously. Only downside is the slushbox/auto. However have been offered full manual swap for it which is good as heard horror stories about a12's and auto boxes.

Currently belongs to a retired guy who has no use for it (had some good yarns with him)

Just a few pics for now, big thanks to Kane and Hayden for checking it out and giving me their thoughts. They basically said it should be in a musuem and didnt bother taking many pics as there was nothing worth mentioning!

Paid what some people would concsider an exuburant price but at the end of that day all of the hard work has been done and thats what work bonus is for right!

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(seats are mint under the covers)

Plans? Reduction in ride height and some sweet wheels for it. Will keep an eye out for an a15 to give it some more juice, maybe tickle it up a touch (side suckers, cam, exhaust) or look for a pre-tickled one.

This floats my boat

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that is all.

duscussion http://www.oldschool.co.nz/phpbb/viewto ... 18&t=35988

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  • 3 weeks later...
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Well, that didnt quite go as planned.....main thing is both ymslef and the car made it home in one piece (eventually)....

It all started on a fine sunny mornign in Wellington and a flight south to Christchurch. Flight was delayed 30mins, which I should have known was just the beginning. Met the one and only Bart Simpson himself at the airport and we were off to pick up the 120y. The yarns were strong with this one.

Met the old guy selling the car, gave it a once over, signed the dotted line and we were done. Quick drive to barts house (just down the road) and was given the tour de Bart along with all the storys (I will cherish them forever!).

We both jump in the 120y and head to Karls place (not far down the road), I notive the water temp is getting up there...ah well not far to Karls. Get to Karls, vomit over some pintos, and decide to check the radiator out. Water is brown and gubky (old dude said it was rust inhibitor...) so we flushed that out....hello, water doesnt come out the bottom pipe. Flush it frpom the bottom and were greeted by some nicely poo coloured particles and then the water flowed nicely. Top it back up and off to Barts again to drop him off.

Temp is way up again, steam out bonnet spec just as we pull in the driveway. Flush rad/engine and check thermostat, deceide to leave it out. Reassmeble (more strong yarns of course) and deciede to hit the road. Oh, and a good spray of crc on the carb to free up the stuck linkages.

Make it 10mins or so out of town, just onto the motorway and temp is going way up[ again, decide to call it quits and call AA (I have AA plus thankfully). They had to send a machanic out to confirm the car wasnt an easy fix (waste of bloody time!), and then I had to sort out a tow to Picton. First call made to AA just after 2pm, tow truck arrived at 530pm....

In the meantime, changed my ferry booking (orriginally 630pm) to 1030pm. Managed to go from just outside CHCH (Tram Road exit for those familiar) to PIcton in bang on 4 hours in a flat bed tow truck with the 120y on the back, was rather impressed.

Dumped the car at ferry, drove on (car still runs mint, just ghets hot very quickly), tried to sleep, couldnt, got to Welly bout 130am and drove it home (temp was way up again in the 5mins it takes ot get home from ferry, although a big slog up the gorge wouldnt have helped). In bed at 2am, job done.

Doenst seem to use any/much water (was still fill when I got home after last topping up in Picton) and during that time got rather hot, so I dont think BHG. Radiator continues to find gunk to float about so think rad is stuffed, and wont be surprised if water pump if foobah as well.

Bit of a downer but the car hasnt been over 70km/h since 1994 and gets driven/started once a month if lucky. Got wof last week so I do beilieve the old guy had no idea there wasa problem. Was thinking when I got home that the fact I was still grinning and hadnt packed the dummy means it must be a good buy....or somethign like that.

Untill next time!

duscussion viewtopic.php?f=18&t=35988

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pulled out radiator ready to take to shop tomorrow, bit of damage to the front fins but will see what they say. took of water pump, looks fine but have a new one on it way anyway (thanks to KK). hopefully the radiator is the culprit so will reassmeble once thats been fixed with new waterpump and thermostat. fingers crossed thatl sort it out.

cleaned the inside out today, needs a good vacuum, dust err where. minor wear on drivers seat, carpets quite worn in places and the boot gas struts are buggered. apart from that its pretty dam tidy if I do say so myself. very impressed. will get new carpets at some stage in the not too distant future, will make it look brand spankers.

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well heres a picture from the side of the road where I spent 3.5 hours on Sunday......

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Radiator should be done today so will then be able to stick it all back together and fingers crossed it keeps temp at bay. Pulled of the carb last night as it is gunky as hell and leaks petrol. Brought a rekit of the tard for it so will rebuilt that before sticking it back on. (or put it back on once radiator is done and then not bother to rebuild it lol)

Bearing in mind Ive only driven the thing for maybe 20mins tops Im getting pretty keen fro a proper hoon.....

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Drove into work today, as well as a good fang up the motorway last night, all seems to be behaving itslef. The new thermostat is actually an 88 degree one as opposed to the factory 82 degrees. Obviuosly means its running a little hotter so might stick the old one back in (I have no reason to believe it doesnt work, and have seen it opening/closing etc when hot). Normal operating temo seems to be between halfway and 2/3rd son the gauge, would liek it a touch lower. Have a temp gauge at home sitting aroundI was going to chuck in the the factyory temp sender is stuck in the block and didnt want to risk breaking it etc.

Also been buying mysel some goodies (payrise and backpay ftw) which consist of:

Haynes manual (not very exciting but invaluable)

Carb kit (currently leaks petrola nd is gunky as fuck)

New carpets (original ones are pretty fucked, is the only thing letting the interior down)

2" lowering blocks (self explanatory really)

Also hoping that Dadums is corect in thinkng he has some frontlored springs for this, will find out this weekend and if they fit then will purchase them off him and tri to match the 2" drop in the rear.

Should be a productive weekend hopefully!

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New carpet installed, makes such a difference. Was a shame to have to ditch the factory blue carpets but they were pretty buggered.

Also rebuilt carb as it was leaking petrol.

And finally put in a little standalone amp for some sounds (to plug ipod into etc). 30 bucks off trademe brand new and is hidden under the dash, super easy to wire in as well, just needs + and -. just need to come up with a speaker install (just got speakers in the boot at the mo). Found some precut holes (just need punching out) in each side of the boot floor/side trim so might just get some decent 6" or whatever fits and roll with that.

might have it lowered by hawkes boes.....

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grabbed some springs of dadums today that he had collecting dust. are king springs and depending on where you look they are standard height or lows. even if they are standard they will be good to use as they are progressive so keep a nice flat spring end when cut.

so thought Id chuck the blocks in the back (easy hour job) and the stick fronts in, see how low/not low they made it and trim to match the back. sounded like a good plan in theory....

turns out the blocks I got are no where near fitting (pin size is miles off). So that stopped that plan quikly. Have emailed the people who sent me the blocks to tell them they fucked up. Hopefully they have another size that will work

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  • 3 weeks later...

more boring pics (from hawkes boes)

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gave it a trash about the dirt track, was super fun (well as fin as an auto that wouldnt grab 1st was haha)

lowered the back tonight, 2" blocks. not low low but much better already. will biff the king springs I have in the front over the weekend and trim to suit.

discussion //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?showtopic=33955

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fucks sake. some clowns been spanner swinging under my car and make a fucking mess.

One of the two bolts that hold the strut to the steering arm/balljoint housing was over tighten and snapped. And for some reason it wont come out....

So I thought id have a go at the other side and the same clown has stripped the brake line nut. Its as round as a fucking round thing and vice grips on full tit wont budge it.

pretty annoyed. looks like ill have to cut the bottom of the bolt/nut off for the strut bolt, and not sure what to do about the brake nut. ideas?

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ah, emergancy diverted.

got brake nut off, its well fucked. how does one replace? cut, new nut, then reflare the end?

also the 'snapped' bolt turned out to just be stripped, managed to get it off using a screw driver jammed in to apply force while undoing it. bolt and nut are fucked.

one on the other side is also fucked.

will try get some replacement bolts tomorrow. that have a funny shapped head to fit but a bit of time with a file/grinder should do the trick,

got one side fitted with king springs, got the others out then ran out of motivation, will finish tomorrow. pretty gay knowing Im going to have to pull itall back apart again to trim the springs.

fun fun

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making the most of my sick day cough, cough. Got some new bolts for the struts, mostly just to use as mockups unitl my bump steer spacers arrive (they have longer grade 12.8 bolts), ones I got are 8.8. brake line is getting remade with nonfucked nuts, pick that up this arvo.

chucked king springs in, turns out they are factory height so measured how much drop I needed to make the car level with the back, 40mm. took them out and cut 2 coils off to what I though would keep them captive....got something wrong a sthey arent haha. ah well, not going to work anyway as it still needs another 20mm or so lower in the front.

b310 tophats fit in with minor adjustments so am trying to track down a pair of those (they are a different design and the strut top nut sits ~30mm higher than normal so its an easy 30mm drop. should level things out,then will get shocks shortned to suit (one day....)

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dave came round today with some wheels to test fit, 14x8s, 0offset with 175/50s and 14x7 0 offset with 165/55s. was xpecting mexipoke but was pleasantly surprised.....

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these are the 8s on the back. could easily roll these however would get interesting with a proper tyre haha. 7s will be easy with a 185 or something.

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and this is with 8 on back and 7s on front (front is actually lower, axle is jacked on back left as no suitable wheels nuts for the 8s). mocked up chin spolier to

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and my photoshop/mspaint of what it could look like

was very usefull thanks dave, 7s with 0offset will be on the cards I think, time to hit yahoo japan!

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went and dragged hemi/mongol out of bed to try on his fins

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they were 6.5", 0 offset with 185/55/14 tyre. guard lips would need a slight tickle front and back to run those specs. fronts more so than the back.

big props to hemi for letting me try them. was very useful mocking up a wheel with a proper size tyre (compared to the rubber bands on daves haha)

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photo.jpg

gave the bumpstops in the back a trim, should be much more comfortable (was only about 10-15mm travel).

tracked down some b310 strut tops which shoudl be here next week, will fit those (they give 30mm free slam dur tot he different design) then retrim front springs if needed to balance it out with the rear.

new wheels should also be in my possesion next week as well

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picked up new wheels

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they dont bolt up on the front (I knew this beforehand) as the design of the spokes and face where the hub contacts the wheel is real flat and the wheel fouls on some metal around the calpier

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needs to be spaced out 10mm. I thought about grinding some of the caliper off but I wont be able to get 10mm out of it without getting into some important looking metal so think Ill just space them out (should have kept the spacers I had on the front off the triumph, would have worked perfectly!

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I didnt word my post very wel, see drawing below as to the part thats fouling

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I could probably take a bit from the outside, but 10mm would be getting into the tabs (the lighter metal you can see) which is all part of what holds the pads in, and I dont really think thats a good idea haha

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discussion //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?showtopic=33955

right, progress! b310 strut tops arriveed today so spend tonight putting them in.

It requires mild slotting of the holes for the strut top mount as well as opening up the hole for the mount to come through (pictures will make sense). there are a ew ways to do this, but I just used a crescent and slowly worked my way around the hole bending it up. Only took 10mins or so. other methods involve cutting/grinding but not so keen.

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Also fitted bump steer spacers (thanks kitch!) to keep the steering arm at a somewhat reasonable angle.

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and final result (looks so sweet on fins, super chuffed). excuse shit photos, not much room in garage for pics.

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front and back are within ~5mm so spot on (front slightly higer). I imagine fronts will settle a bit as well

one problem remains however, front brakes are removed as the wheels foul on them. not keen to space wheels as itl put the tyres outside the guards (needs 10mm clearance)

what you guys rekon about removing 10mm from the outside of the brakes? see the pic with the ruler across, thats how much ill need to take off.

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Snapped a few quick pics on the way home from work

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rubs a touch in the back over bumps but otherwise pretty straight forward.

needs to go a bit lower....once I have worked the guards a bit I think ill drop in another inch or so....fronts will be easy, rears not so much. Will need to get leaves reset.

discussion //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?showtopic=33955

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