BlownCorona Posted September 4, 2012 Share Posted September 4, 2012 that really is cheap power. the 18r comes with factory double valve springs, so im sure that's some sort of a plus. in a few weeks once ive got a bit of play money i might come in some time for a chat. i really dont understand much of the terminology, but i know what i want from it. ie, as much torque as i can get peaking around the 3.5 - 4k rpm mark (assuming the rev range doesnt extend much if at all. currently revs out to about 5500. i want to be able to feel fast, but dont really care about top speed as long as its still good on the open road as its not a race car, just a fun street car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobbyBreeze Posted September 4, 2012 Share Posted September 4, 2012 Oooh, let me also hijack this thread.Do you guys have any cam profiles on file for a 1256cc Vauxhall motor (Viva, Chevette, etc - lame huh)? Had a good Kelford grind on a 2300 Bedford cam once which still had a spec sheet on file. Have read some old tuning books about those engines and they reckon increase cam overlap by 10 degrees and add about 0.02in lift - how much could you get out of a stock single cam in terms in increased lift/duration/overlap? I would think you could only get lift and duration on a stock cam by changing profile of the lobe and decreasing base circle? Sad how I have 2x 4AGE and 1x 2JZ twin cam powered cars but want to play with tuning Vauxhalls I haven't had much to do with these motors, they are OHV right? If so, we have gazillions of profiles and will be able to sort you something easily. You are correct, regrinds have to reduce the basecircle to get any more duration or lift on the cam. Generally you can go to whatever sort of profile you want with pushrod stuff - we just mow the basecircle down into the core, turn the core to a smaller diameter and you reset your lash on the rockers. Most rockers have enough range of adjustment on the lash adjusting bolt/nut to account for the reduced basecircle. If your rocker geometry gets really stuffed up you may have to look into different length pushrods, this generally is only an issue when putting full race grinds on stock cams though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobbyBreeze Posted September 4, 2012 Share Posted September 4, 2012 i want to be able to feel fast, but dont really care about top speed as long as its still good on the open road as its not a race car, just a fun street car. No problems, we should be able to sort a grind that gives you a decent amount more torque and make it a lot more fun to drive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vivaspeed Posted September 5, 2012 Share Posted September 5, 2012 I haven't had much to do with these motors, they are OHV right? If so, we have gazillions of profiles and will be able to sort you something easily. Yeah OHV/pushrod. Sweet will wait until I get my parts engine and measure the stock profile then come chat to you (well, via internet) about what you can do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
felixx Posted September 5, 2012 Share Posted September 5, 2012 Hi there, sorry to hijack but If I had a mild cam grind on my 997cc pre crossflow, would the ground cam also be suitable for a 1500cc pre cross? This is for a ford anglia. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted September 6, 2012 Share Posted September 6, 2012 i very much doubt it, i always thought they were pretty engine specific. does the 997 cam actually fit into the 1500? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted September 6, 2012 Share Posted September 6, 2012 Hi there, sorry to hijack but If I had a mild cam grind on my 997cc pre crossflow, would the ground cam also be suitable for a 1500cc pre cross?This is for a ford anglia. I have a feeling that the answer is yes, ford were pretty lazy back then, I have a crossflow cam in my pre crossflow block. Anyhow UJ will be along to confirm/deny. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
escorted Posted September 6, 2012 Share Posted September 6, 2012 Sorry to hijack a hijacked thread. Suggested Cam for a stroked 355? Standard heads, 750 holley, th350 with a 2500rpm High stall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
felixx Posted September 6, 2012 Share Posted September 6, 2012 i very much doubt it, i always thought they were pretty engine specific. does the 997 cam actually fit into the 1500? they run the same block, 1500 is a stroked and bored 997 with a better crank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobbyBreeze Posted September 9, 2012 Share Posted September 9, 2012 You can get away with more duration on a larger motor, so chances are a fairly 'hot' cam on the 997 will be pretty mild in the 1500. escorted - is the 355 stroker 304 based? I'd probably put a 170-D in it seeming you have a high-stall and I assume you want a nice idle? Whats the C/R? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yetchh Posted September 9, 2012 Share Posted September 9, 2012 . I can however say that our cam will be better than the Edelbrock camshaft - the Americans are fairly behind with profile design and our street extreme range of profiles (used on the 130-E) have modern ramp designs that kick arse. Does that also apply to crane cams?, I've been reading a lot lately about lobe failures on cranes F246 solid flat tappet cam, people following the run in procedures religiously buy still losing lobes.. is this because they're using inferior metals or what? It makes me very nervous as its the cam of choice for a large chunk of cleveland boys, up to 500hp as you prob know, and its also the cam I'm considering as an upgrade for my clevo from my current 224/234@50 powerboss, if i gave you the specs for an F246 would it be possible copy the specs for a custom grind? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobbyBreeze Posted September 9, 2012 Share Posted September 9, 2012 Yep sure we can do that, we will likely have grinds to suit but if not I can design the profiles if needed. They could be loosing lobes for heaps of reasons - could be a profile issue like too tight nose radius or too much acceleration, could be bad workmanship in grinding the cam (too little or too much lobe taper), could be using old or badly refaced lifters with the wrong 'crown' on them or could simply be incorrectly specified valvespring open/closed pressures for the cam. Another thing it could be is Crane using low-chrome cores (cheap) that are designed to be used for standard or low duration hydraulic profiles rather than solid stuff. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
escorted Posted September 9, 2012 Share Posted September 9, 2012 You can get away with more duration on a larger motor, so chances are a fairly 'hot' cam on the 997 will be pretty mild in the 1500.escorted - is the 355 stroker 304 based? I'd probably put a 170-D in it seeming you have a high-stall and I assume you want a nice idle? Whats the C/R? Yes 304 based. 10.5:1. Yes a nice idle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yetchh Posted September 9, 2012 Share Posted September 9, 2012 Yep sure we can do that, we will likely have grinds to suit but if not I can design the profiles if needed. They could be loosing lobes for heaps of reasons - could be a profile issue like too tight nose radius or too much acceleration, could be bad workmanship in grinding the cam (too little or too much lobe taper), could be using old or badly refaced lifters with the wrong 'crown' on them or could simply be incorrectly specified valvespring open/closed pressures for the cam. Another thing it could be is Crane using low-chrome cores (cheap) that are designed to be used for standard or low duration hydraulic profiles rather than solid stuff. Cheers Yeah it seems to be a problem in the last few years since they reduced the zinc in oil, as there's a mix of lobe wiping from run in to 5000 kms.. are your grinds from a billet or do you buy cores? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobbyBreeze Posted September 13, 2012 Share Posted September 13, 2012 Sorry for the late reply. We have cores and billets and use what suits the grind best. Normally steel billets for rollers, high chrome chilled cast iron for mechanical flat tappets and standard chilled cast iron for hydraulic flat tappets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yetchh Posted September 13, 2012 Share Posted September 13, 2012 ok cheers, I might contact you in the future Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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