Nominal Posted April 3, 2020 Share Posted April 3, 2020 Yep, looks good to me. Good idea to start on the easy bits first 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LoLlife Posted April 3, 2020 Share Posted April 3, 2020 Ka pai brother looks like your a natural.... Now, take all wheels and turn them around.....take the pressure down. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LoLlife Posted April 3, 2020 Share Posted April 3, 2020 It's a John Farnham line....y'know like a joke, like funny ha ha. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmxnz11 Posted April 4, 2020 Share Posted April 4, 2020 Looks really good. What was the structure/folded edge like behind the guard? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AllTorque Posted April 4, 2020 Author Share Posted April 4, 2020 Guard has a second skin, that is stood off from outer. It was a little scabby. Gave is a wire brush, rust converter and paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted April 15, 2020 Share Posted April 15, 2020 Its up to you what you can live with, bog isn't the devil. Just looks like a big skim was used on that door to hide all the sins and paint. Im a sucker for punishment so would strip it, whats your plan on paint in the end? just paint the rust repairs in patches and leave it rat spec which gets you back on the road faster, ghetto respray which take a bit longer? or full decent respray which would want a full strip down so you are not wasting the money? the finish you want to put on it will determine what you should do. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AllTorque Posted April 16, 2020 Author Share Posted April 16, 2020 Plan was to paint the repairs as I go, but not too worried about colour matching. I was just going to find a rattle can that is close enough. Definitely keen to keep it on the road, but in saying that I only use it a couple of times a year lately. Not keen to strip to whole car and for it to become one of those garage ornaments covered in boxes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted April 16, 2020 Share Posted April 16, 2020 Weld the rust, skim it and blend into existing bog, do it again in 10-15 years 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AllTorque Posted April 16, 2020 Author Share Posted April 16, 2020 I can live with 10 - 15 years. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted April 16, 2020 Share Posted April 16, 2020 Yeah just depends what turds are under the existing paint, I would say a few. This is rusted in all the same places as my wag was. How is the rear window sills? Dunno if you need tailgate rubbers and shit, I imagine they are melted. Save this guy for reference when you feel rich or the dollar is good, stop it rusting out the bottom of it again. http://einstyn.com/einstyn-tailgate-parts.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AllTorque Posted April 16, 2020 Author Share Posted April 16, 2020 I have seen that site while ago when searching (dreaming) for a replacement tailgate. Bottom of the rear side windows is a bit scabby. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted April 16, 2020 Share Posted April 16, 2020 Looks to me like the bottom of the outer skin is probably toast right along the door, so plan on cutting that off and then repairing the inner structure. You might get away with just doing the outer corners if you are lucky. Further up the door is probably OK so just leave the filler there for now. It's probably hiding a dent or just a skim for shape as Spenno said. It's tricky to keep the outer skin in shape when welding so you'll probably need some new filler anyway. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AllTorque Posted April 16, 2020 Author Share Posted April 16, 2020 Sweet. I will take the paint off along the bottom of the outside and have a look. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted April 16, 2020 Share Posted April 16, 2020 Also for the noob with a mig (like me) use big tacks hotter than you would normally think, look at the back of the panel if you can and make sure its penetrating all the way through. Do like 10 tacks and then grind them and hammer as needed, you put way less heat in this way. Shrinking disc helps lots for finishing, but in this case hammer bog it up. Doing runs of weld will make things extra bendy and is for the expert or TIG welder type of chap. Those OG sanding discs with the backing plate on the grinder are great for finishing welds also, a bit safer and nicer finish that the flap disc in many cases/skill level. With the tack method, beating and sanding discs you can make patches look mostly invisible. Agree with above also that the whole bottom of the door will be rusty in the seam, depends how many cans of worms you want to open etc. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AllTorque Posted April 16, 2020 Author Share Posted April 16, 2020 Thanks @Spencer @Nominal outside is not too bad Front lower inner is Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AllTorque Posted April 16, 2020 Author Share Posted April 16, 2020 Don’t really know where to start with this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted April 16, 2020 Share Posted April 16, 2020 Unfold the outer door skin (there are good youtube videos on this to do it good if needed) cut out that whole lower corner then make up some compound patches. Make it out of 3-4 bits, if you are using some nice new cold rolled steel you easily be able to bend that shit up by hand or over a pipe etc. 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AllTorque Posted April 16, 2020 Author Share Posted April 16, 2020 I have half a sheet of 1.1mm zinc coated stuff. So cut it out as one piece, replicate out of multiple pieces then weld one completed piece in? Right. Off to you tube for some lessons. Thanks again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted April 16, 2020 Share Posted April 16, 2020 IMO 1.1mm is too thick for this, you will find that despite what people say about yank shit these things are pretty much all ~0.8 unless its a gusset/structural piece. The zinc plated is harder to work with than cold rolled but I am guessing you cannot go to the shops to get some so see how you go. Edit: Also yes, be hard work to make that in one piece without some tools/experience doing it. No problem making it out of a bunch of pieces either on the bench or on the car so you know they all fit lush. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nzstato Posted April 16, 2020 Share Posted April 16, 2020 ^ What he said See my old HQ thread for how I did this sort of inner door repair with basic hand tools. Replace the whole lower skin in one go, if there are holes there are thin spots which will be holes in a few years.... https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/32633-nzstatos-nz-built-statesman/ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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