AllTorque Posted September 5, 2017 Author Share Posted September 5, 2017 Cheers guys. Will definitely be picking some brains. I still have a bit of gear to accumulate and plan on practicing on some junk first. Plan is to just chip away, while still keeping it on the road, but things might change depending on what surprises I find. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AllTorque Posted September 5, 2017 Author Share Posted September 5, 2017 @Unclejake what size MIG wire do you recommend? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unclejake Posted September 5, 2017 Share Posted September 5, 2017 I'm no welder, but if you can get away with it try 0.6mm. I use 0.8mm as I do more fabrication than panel work. I have all files, hammers, dollies, shears, rotary burrs, long boards etc, and also a wee hand held pneumatic thing that does stuff that helps with patches (but I can't remember what it's called). Happy to make them all available if it helps. EDIT: It's an air panel flange punch tool. Yeah baby. You didn't even know Flange needed an air punch in the tool 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AllTorque Posted September 5, 2017 Author Share Posted September 5, 2017 I appreciate the offer, UJ. As I am a complete newbie to panel work I have no tools (or skill). I would prefer to accumulate my own stuff, so I'll be buying a few basics as I can. I bought a roll of 0.8 wire with the welder, but will get some 0.6 if you think it will make life easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unclejake Posted September 5, 2017 Share Posted September 5, 2017 It's best to get wire advice from a proper welder mate. I'm a noob too 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seedy Al Posted September 5, 2017 Share Posted September 5, 2017 If you already have .8 you will be fine. American steel is alot more forgiving than thin jap stuff. Once you are out of .8 then consider .6. But you will probably be used to .8 by then. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted September 6, 2017 Share Posted September 6, 2017 either 0.8 or 0.6 can work just need to adjust technique. which is most of the battle - finding what settings and gun angles work for your welder in which positions on what thicknesses and shittiness of surfaces etc. a lot of the time for car stuff you are pretty restricted in position and length of bead before overheating the thin stuff or just running into movement obstacles that require you to physically move yourself. so I usually end up running relatively hotter than what "normal" fabrication welding would recommend because you have to do a series of tacks or very short welds and you need the higher power to get enough penetration at the start of the weld. this then means you have to stop and/or increase your torch distance shortly after starting to reduce the heat input. other recommendations - tip within 0-5mm of end of nozzle - sometimes you need to cut the nozzle of the welder shorter to achieve this. start welds with the gun real close/ short ~5-10mm wire stickout from tip when starting to give you more initial penetration with less power and wire speed my 2c anyway 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted September 7, 2017 Share Posted September 7, 2017 I like .6mm for panel, I think i do the same as Tom is suggesting with thin jap steel I use more than required tack amps (will cause burn-through if you sit there too long), and modulate with the amount of wire stickout, so start close to material to settle a nice flat tack and draw gun away from material to effectively reduce amps due to extra length of wire, maybe 1/2 second tacks. generally i run a lower wire feed rate for this sort of stuff too. lean the torch over more if you are still getting burn, through and don't be tempted to pull the torch away until the post-flow is complete. if your post flow is adjustable suggest an extra couple of seconds of that can help a bit too. It kind of just feels natural after a while, you will know as soon as you strike the arc wether is's on the money or tool cold/hot. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AllTorque Posted September 7, 2017 Author Share Posted September 7, 2017 Great advice. Cheers fellas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steelies Posted September 7, 2017 Share Posted September 7, 2017 find some rusty scrap and simulate heaps of practise repairs gee, wont take long to see what happens and what helps. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted November 11, 2017 Share Posted November 11, 2017 Pretty lardy. Was that with you in it? The Mercury is right on 2 tonne across the weigh bridge at the Otaki tip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AllTorque Posted November 11, 2017 Author Share Posted November 11, 2017 I was not in it. Only had 1/8 a tank of gas too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted November 11, 2017 Share Posted November 11, 2017 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr.wylde Posted November 11, 2017 Share Posted November 11, 2017 I bought the same welder myself a month ago! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AllTorque Posted November 12, 2017 Author Share Posted November 12, 2017 How are you finding it @dr.wylde ? I still haven’t used mine yet. I just got a bottle of gas and now just need to make some time to have a play. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr.wylde Posted November 12, 2017 Share Posted November 12, 2017 its ok Ive only tested it out on a scrap bonnet with some .8mm flux core wire for shits and giggles still need to get a gas bottle and reg. It does the job nicely! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuel Posted November 12, 2017 Share Posted November 12, 2017 How is it heavier in the rear than it is in the front? or did I read the chart wrong? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AllTorque Posted November 12, 2017 Author Share Posted November 12, 2017 Because SPORT Wagon. It is basically a Lamborghini. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bistro Posted November 12, 2017 Share Posted November 12, 2017 5 hours ago, fuel said: How is it heavier in the rear than it is in the front? or did I read the chart wrong? Unusual yes, but just check out the overhang on the arse end. All of that glass, american iron/bog not to mention a hefty diff. And it's not like it's got a big block in it. You could imagine the weight difference when it's loaded for wagnats. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goat Posted April 3, 2020 Share Posted April 3, 2020 Shit yeah Rog, Repair looks awesome! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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