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Spencer

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On 1/5/2017 at 08:29, sidewaysickness said:

 

Do you happen to have the sump profile for a Bmw M50 engine?

I am interested in this also. E34 sumps are hard to come buy and now have e30 tax on them. (ps there is a 7series sump that also fits.) but then you still have to chop it and fit wings to keep the capacity  up and not have the sump make friends with the ground.  

I have seen on youtube where a dude has a scanner that he uses to create images of areas and parts then used it as a base to draw and design the part to fill the hole type thing. 

IT was the guy the the wheel chair from holigan 

but yes a sump flange for a m50/52/54 would be great. 

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Yes I used a E34 sump in my E30 and yes I chopped it and winged it after an ass puckering moment with terra firma. I posted that before I had modified the sump so if it was available I would have made a steel version.

There is definitely a market out the for low profile M5X sumps

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On 6/12/2017 at 05:55, Scrubb said:

I'm really getting in to 3D modelling at the moment. If anyone has anything relatively simple I could model up for them, I'd be keen for the practise!

Will probably need drawings to work from, though.

There you go man, see if someone can get a hold of some BMW parts or mx5 parts and model the shut out of them. If you can you change them from cast components into manufacturable parts then you will be a king

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5 hours ago, bonkas said:

Does there exist a drawing of a flange to mate up to a Weber DHLA 45 carb?

Nah, doesn't seem to be a file for that, you can add it though! 

 

If you are unable to draw the part yourself but have the dimensions, I can draw it up for you for laser cutting etc

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16 hours ago, peteretep said:

Nah, doesn't seem to be a file for that, you can add it though! 

 

If you are unable to draw the part yourself but have the dimensions, I can draw it up for you for laser cutting etc

Think I found it, will need to convert into a dxf file for laser cutting, will see how we go.

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  • 1 month later...

You will need a few measuring tools, but some verniers will be the most useful. In general when I measure something like this, I take multiple measurements of the same feature, to try triangulate the location.You want to measure centre to centre, but it can be hard to find the centre, the tapped holes will all have the same inside diameter (enough for clearance hole to cover discrepancy), so you can measure minimum measurement (or inside to inside of circles) then add the diameter to get the centre distance. And try to model the part while sitting right next to it, so you can take more measurements as you require, it will take alot of measurements to get good detail.

 

Once you get a reasonable idea on locations of things, you can print out your drawing and overlay it to compare drawing and reality. Take some measurements to make sure your print is to scale first though, but I have found most printers are pretty good for scale. Can use the hammer trick to cut/hammer out paper on the edges to compare the shape

 

The bolt holes don't need to be super accurate, I would worry more about the details at the crank areas for locating the plate.

 

Those baffle plates would need to be pretty cheap for you not to make it yourself if you have a spare couple of hours. I had a similar sized/detailed plate laser cut from 304 SS, 1.5mm thick for $11.50. More holes in a laser cut plate adds virtually costs no extra, you are pretty much paying a small fee for cutting + cost of material(which is the biggest cost)

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Measuring such things is wasting time, just photocopy it with a ruler for scale, import it into CAD and trace around what you want.

5ad4538b556c3_GTiRitb.thumb.jpg.2543f888cd17386c9f4254bbbc191647.jpg

Glad wrap is also good idea to stop the office lady kicking your arse for getting grease on the image plate.

If the part can't be photocopied, take a sheet of A3 paper to make a crayon rubbing just like in kindy and scan that.

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11 minutes ago, NickJ said:

Measuring such things is wasting time, just photocopy it with a ruler for scale, import it into CAD and trace around what you want.

5ad4538b556c3_GTiRitb.thumb.jpg.2543f888cd17386c9f4254bbbc191647.jpg

Glad wrap is also good idea to stop the office lady kicking your arse for getting grease on the image plate.

If the part can't be photocopied, take a sheet of A3 paper to make a crayon rubbing just like in kindy and scan that.

Just be careful that the part comes out the right way around after

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