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Matt's Rotary Anglia


mattj

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From the trusty Haines manual, standard weight is about 750Kg, its massive 37hp pushed 0-100 in 30 secs and it topped out at 78mph.

Not sure how heavy mine will end up, while the motor is lighter I haven't posted any pics of my seat mounts yet..........

I can probably improve the 0-100 time though

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Of course - LOL.

More was leading towards a question of why would you start with a turbo motor and deturbo than with an N/A motor to start with?? There may be some very good reason but I know narssing about rotaries.. Other than they make sweet tattoo subjects.. LOL

Apologies - build thread discussion to continue...

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Wow. Heavier then I thought. My viva in standard form is 770kg. Viva looks bigger but probably isn't much.

Anyway yeah I reckon you'll happily slice the 0-100 down..... :D

Is that a series 4 or 5 engine?

viva is bigger, but there isnt alot of weight in sheet metal, it's all in the box sections, both cars would have a similar major structure weight, hence the minor difference in the extra sheet material in the 18 inchs the viva would be wider.

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So would running a turbo one in N/A form be quite lackluster?

Turbo motors still run NA alright with standard ports and good fueling.

You naturally drop compression when you do big ports on an NA motor anyway.

The dish in the rotor face determines the compression.

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Still go better than a piston motor.

A gerbil on crack motivated by electroshock therapy with an EGT probe up his wazzu would put out more power than an early 60's ford engine. *squeak*

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Engine is a series 5, It has s4 NA rotors to up the compression and pretty much the only reason for starting with a later model engine was because you can still get bits for them relatively easily

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I think the series 5 turbo engine has higher compression than series 4 turbos or the 12a turbos.

One reason that the setup in my car got good reviews was due to it being a NA 12a running low boost. Sod all lag and good drivability.

I think stock NA 12a can run up to about 8 psi safely so long as you watch the ignition timing. So I guess a 13b with NA rotors could happily run low boost with no drama. Would be a great add on to your Anglia for the future- bolt a hair dryer onto the side... 8) once you get bored with what it will currently have...

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... stock NA 12a can run up to about 8 psi safely so long as you watch the ignition timing....

pretty much true for most engines except the holden v8 (304) which is already 8.6 (or was it 9):1 so thats a low compression engine anyway, 10-12 should be fine on them, the toyota 20v engine will take 6psi on the factory ecu and runs perfectly, well, until you get adventurous turn the boost to 15psi and take a wild drive at 5am, then turn it back down, yeah it doesnt work like that haha.

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I think the series 5 turbo engine has higher compression than series 4 turbos or the 12a turbos.

One reason that the setup in my car got good reviews was due to it being a NA 12a running low boost. Sod all lag and good drivability.

I think stock NA 12a can run up to about 8 psi safely so long as you watch the ignition timing. So I guess a 13b with NA rotors could happily run low boost with no drama. Would be a great add on to your Anglia for the future- bolt a hair dryer onto the side... 8) once you get bored with what it will currently have...

Yeah I had thought the same thing, not sure how the carbon seals would go under boost though they looked pretty fragile

anyway I kept the s5 turbo rotors just in case.......

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Ha- according to racing beats info on clearances when rebuilding my engine is pretty bloody loose. Well actually it is. But still starts well hot or cold and goes well enough. My $100 special.

Interesting what they say about 2mm vs 3mm seals.

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Ha- according to racing beats info on clearances when rebuilding my engine is pretty bloody loose. Well actually it is. But still starts well hot or cold and goes well enough. My $100 special.

Interesting what they say about 2mm vs 3mm seals.

... key point with the 2mm vs 3mm debate is the difference in material quite an interesting article though, I see no reason a standard Bridgeport'ed engine with standard compression couldn't have 4-6psi down it's ida and never have an issue. I used to have some wild J port plates, totally extreme monster large, always wanted to build em up and run em, but Bridgeports are pretty cool, I loved mine, still rave about it now 15yrs later :P

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That was an interesting read, I am trying to remember exactly why I went with 3mm seals now, I know that to run a full bridgeport I had to have a 1 piece seal and I wanted to run carbon seals which only came in 3mm (for a 13b). I think that was the reason anyway.

I had the apex grooves on the rotors wirecut as I was told it was about the only way to guarantee the groove being the right size and in the right spot. Luckily my work has access to one so I got the work done cheap.

Interestingly the carbon seals were a factory Mazda part but it sounds like I should have gone ceramic, ahh well no matter when the engine dies I will chuck some steel seals back into it and put a hair dryer on the side......

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