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PANELBEATING BASICS


danger

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I found it pretty good for large panels, but as always corners and nooks and crannys are the problem. if dust wasn't an issue yeah strip discs etc. are probably about as good I guess.

Has anyone tried home soda blasting like this for getting into those areas the wire wheel doesn't really fit? (was posted somewhere else on here a while back)

http://www.aircooledtech.com/tools-on-the-cheap/soda_blaster/

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Yea I am not the biggest paint stripper fan, but I am forced to use it abit due to being in town, neighbours wouldn't be happy with me unleashing shitloads of dust. Just try keep it out of seams etc as it can fuck up paint jobs pretty quick. After nutralising I will always go over the panel with wax & grease and a scotch-brite pad

That DIY soda blaster is pretty sweet, going to clean my carb like that for sure. Pretty sure it would take foreve to remove paint like that & you have to nutralise it properly or it will cause all sorts of problems if it sits in seams and shit

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What's the general consensus on bare metal respray vs just sanding original paint?

My MR2 I just sanded the original paint. It looked good but I have a feeling that it slowly would have deteriorated with the 30 year old paint under it. I think I did start to notice it after just 6 months.

For my coupe I'm pretty keen to bare metal the outside. I'm building it to last a long time. Probably use paint stripper for the bigger panels. Sandings a prick and I don't have pro sanders.

I hear ya on staying away from joins and anywhere that paint stripper can hide. Easy enough to just sand those parts.

When you say neutralising, do good paint strippers come with something you rub over afterwards to prevent it eating everything?

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I bare metaled my car, and found that every time there was a tiny stone chip, rust had been spreading out under the paint underneath, there is no way you'd know about this otherwise.

In saying this, it's opening a whole other can of worms in terms of potential issues with prepping the bare surface and what not.

80s toyotas are really made of horrible metal, surface rust starts REALLY quickly just from moisture in the air.

I would aim to get the whole lot done in as shorter time as possible, either way...

If you bare metal and then have primer sitting exposed for 6 months, you end up with heaps of crap in/on the paint which just about makes it a worthless exercise.

I had to just about completely resand mine back, on advice from the panel beater because it'd been sitting too long and there'd be too much contamination in the primer.

Realistically for a good paint job that is going to last, you want to get your car from bare metal to painted in as shorter time as possible rather than taking a fair amount of time with each step along the way.

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OK so after spending all day bare metaling my car I thought I would post on this. If you are going to bare metal you dont have to do fuck all sanding, I use various wire wheels, paint stripper (as I said cant make much dust in town) & nylon disks. You can leave it sitting around for years if you use Epoxy primer (it is the shit) it seals things up nicely, most people these days (including me) will do there bodywork over the exopy. There are two sides to this some people like to filler to bare metal, but if major resto places use filler over epoxy its good enough for me

I will write this up with pics as I go

Also everytime I strip a car by hand I wish I got it media blasted, but I keep doing it haha

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When I do resto jobs (if the customers budget allows) I like to strip back to bare metal,rub it down with deoxidene (sp?) on a scotch pad then epoxy prime as soon as practical (making sure nobody touches the steel after its been rubbed down), Then do all the repairs over the epoxy, usually I keep a gun full of it close to the job and prime the repairs as soon as they are done or if they're being left overnight just so the filler doesn't soak up any moisture.

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What is the bit you have in the die grinder? I've been looking for something like that lazily for a little while to avoid buying a die grinder and a little 3" cut off saw.

2407_300_300.jpg

Tool shop down the road told me they don't exist.

Hopefully nobody has said this yet.

Your issue is that this is not a die grinder.

Its a cut off saw.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/building-renov ... 326707.htm

Die grinders will not have enough tq and will probably spin too fast for one of those disks.

I have that same saw in the link and its great, has had tons of use.

Also, the very cheap trademe air tools (from my experience) are not as good as brand name big dollar stuff.... but they are more than good enough- especially after some tickling.

My $15 trademe die grinder went from 19,000rpm to 27,000 RPM after some porting. Certain flap wheels explode. 8) but needs a FARKLOAD of air. Still nowhere near as much TQ as my other die grinder *can t remember brand*

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Hopefully nobody has said this yet.

Your issue is that this is not a die grinder.

Its a cut off saw.

Thanks for the help, but no one has said it yet because you didn't read what I wrote. I know it is a cut off saw, but danger had a bit in his die grinder to use it like a cut off saw for light duties and I was asking where he got this bit so I wouldn't need to buy both a cut off saw and a die grinder. I even put up a little picture so that people wouldn't get confused :P unfortunately some people only look at the pictures.. :lol:
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Hopefully nobody has said this yet.

Your issue is that this is not a die grinder.

Its a cut off saw.

Thanks for the help, :

SNAP!

I did read your post, saw the pic and thought you were confused.

Looks like a bolt thats had the head machined and the thread turned down to fit into the spindle?

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