Ja1lb8 Posted July 14, 2012 Author Share Posted July 14, 2012 Found a but of time to do some more work on the firewall and its slowy taking shape Heat marks on the right hand side are where i used the tig torch to shrink the metal, worked quite well Added in a 30mm strip to make the recess bigger, probably should of just started again but i was to commited by this stage This is it mounted in the car, note big spuare recess bit is to clear the back of the head, it pokes out further on one side Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ja1lb8 Posted August 27, 2012 Author Share Posted August 27, 2012 Havnt got alot done lately due to work commitments but starting to get back into the swing of things now Cut the rest of the floor out in preperation for the new one, still needs cleaning up around the edges , unsure whether to use acid or sandblasting to get the rust off, What are peoples thoughts on this? Got hold of another front grill surround thing so put a grill in that to see what itd look like and check bonnet fitment and clearances around the engine Also toying with the idea of running a water to air intercooler setup just to fit it in there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ja1lb8 Posted October 7, 2012 Author Share Posted October 7, 2012 Folded up one side of the floorpan and put the swage lines in it Cut out all the rusty areas under where the floor goes and replaced them before welding in new floorpan Spot welded it along the length of it and also butt welded it along the little crease line thing Have folded up channel sections of steel for bracing but well have to wait till I take the body off and turn it upside down before they can go in Just cause Package arrived from the states the other day with air struts and replacement rear panel that goes under the bootlid area where these things always rust out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ja1lb8 Posted October 22, 2012 Author Share Posted October 22, 2012 Discussion thread > viewtopic.php?f=18&t=32726 Removed the body from the chassis to make it easier to do some of the panel work and also finish off the suspension and crossmembers Well eventually roll the body over on its side to finish off underneith First up roughly cut the bottom off the back of the car so I could test fit the replacement panel up to see where to do the final cuts Tacked it all on, got this neat little air tool thing that I used to punch holes along the joins for spot welding Did all the spot welding with a mig and and finished off the other joins with a Tig , Fit and finish came up pretty good so shouldndt have to use much bog if any, just a good coat of primer filler 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ja1lb8 Posted November 4, 2012 Author Share Posted November 4, 2012 Discussion thread > viewtopic.php?f=18&t=32726 Wasnt really happy with the swage lines on the firewall so cut the top section off and made a new one, came out much better Then seam welded it in and spotted it from the inside Next welded in the recessed part off the old firewall Next job will be to put some bacing in under the floor and build the tunnel and the front floor section Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ja1lb8 Posted December 5, 2012 Author Share Posted December 5, 2012 Been working on the floor, got the front part of the tunnel in and the floorpan area where the driver and passanger put there feet Tipped the body shell over on its side and welded some bracing underneith, no photos but well get some next time i turn it over again to do the rear half of the floor Next up is to make the part that covers the bellhousing , Also working on fitting the accelerator , shifter and brake pedal, not sure whether to run some sort of under dash brake booster setup or under the floor, under the floor would be preferable but im a bit squeezed for space there with the exhaust, Also wondering bout fitting some kind of column change cable operated shifter to free up room on the floor 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ja1lb8 Posted December 13, 2012 Author Share Posted December 13, 2012 Made up the floor section that goes over the bell housing Managed to put in the compound curves without cutting or welding it using a shrinker/stretcher machine Worked better then i thought it would Made up a blank using cardboard then copied it onto some panel steel and came up with this Test fit, A bit more massaging and it fit not to bad Punched holes right around it for spot welding Welded in place, well take a few hours of grinding to clean up all the welds bit that can wait till later 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ja1lb8 Posted December 17, 2012 Author Share Posted December 17, 2012 Finished off the back section of the floor, unfortunatly it had to have those sharp bends in it to fit the contour of the chassis and i couldnt come up with a different way to do it without cutting up the chassis which i definatley didnt want to do The seat sits directly over the top where the round part meets the square part so it should hide it I hope and carpet well do the rest Still gotta put some more bracing on the underside and drill and fit a few more brackets where it mounts to the chassis Planning on using this bench seat which im told is out of 1939 chev coupe, has a split folding back which lets the rear seat passangers get in and out, gunna take much modifying to get it to fit and work over the tunnel tho 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ja1lb8 Posted January 8, 2013 Author Share Posted January 8, 2013 Been spending a bit of time on this lately , tryna figure out where the steering columns guna go/clearance around exhaust ,turbo,engine mounts etc, got a chevy tilt column on its way that I got cheap off tard me Fitted the accelerator pedal Got side tracked and started working on the front suspension again First took the bottom arm off and fitted some brackets to hold my airbags,( well be making new tube A arms eventually) Lifted it up till the arms were where I want them at ride height and then fitted a piece of steel tube to simulate the shock/springs at ride height Then made up the top brackets out of cardboard cut them out of 3mm plate and tacked them on well box them later Boned out Was searching the interweb looking at different gauge clusters for my dash wanting to do something different Quite liked the look of 55,56,57 chev truck gauges and found a few on ebay US , mentioned this in passing to my dad and he sez hang on, ask your brother and it turns out he has a spare one sitting in the boot of his car as you do, he was travelling through last night so he dropped it off on his way Not sure whether to run it above the steering wheel or in the middle of the dash Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ja1lb8 Posted February 4, 2013 Author Share Posted February 4, 2013 Have fitted the gauge cluster, still need to weld in some mounting tabs for the screws and fill in around the bottom of the v part of the chrome, going to incorporate it into the steering column mount somehow Not sure what to do with rest of the dash tho, might just fill in all the holes although some of that old chrome stuff that came on it does look pretty cool Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ja1lb8 Posted February 5, 2013 Author Share Posted February 5, 2013 Package arrived today with steering components in it so thought I best mount the column and fingers crossed itl all work The U joints and shaft appear to be pretty good quality but the rod ends pretty shit and well probably end up getting another one Got this tilt column for cheap off trademe, was told its out of some old chev , Im thinking late 60s early 70s but not really sure Made the top mount and will pretty it up a bit by making some sort of cover that merges into the bottom of the gauge cluster Next Im going to mount the bottom of the column and cut a hole in the firewall, hope i measured it all up properly and itl clear all the turbo piping and exhaust Note crappy steering wheel is just so I could mock it up and make sure I was happy with where it sat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ja1lb8 Posted February 15, 2013 Author Share Posted February 15, 2013 So been fitting the rest of the steering shafts and universals First problem I struck was needing a spline on the input shaft of the rack and pinion Thought about it for a while and ended up making up a dividing plate out of an old torana disk brake and welding it to the spindle of my lathe, worked out way better then I thought it would and actually cut a pretty decent spline Then had a few goes at different mounting positions for the support bearing , main problem being clearance around the exhaust Its about as good as I can get it now but well have run heat sheilds around the centre ujoint and hope it doesnt boil all the grease out of it and wreck it Well finish up all the bracing for the support bearing when the body comes off and engine out next 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ja1lb8 Posted March 7, 2013 Author Share Posted March 7, 2013 Have spent the last couple of weeks working on the exhaust and finishing off bits on the chassis Removed the body shell and set to work on the drivers side exhaust , Had to get it to clear the steering shafts and fit in between the chassis rails, Just waiting on some v band clamps to show up so I can finish weld it, otherwise all looks good Next I moved onto the passengers side , had to modify the manifold so it faced the other way, easier said then done but its in there now, 3rd time lucky and appears to clear everything, Hoping the motor doesnt rock to much and make the exhaust hit the chassis Like the other side im going to have to put heat shields around everything to try and stop things melting, starter engine mount etc 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Ja1lb8 Posted April 23, 2013 Share Posted April 23, 2013 So wasnt gunna put this up until Id seen what the end result came out like but its way to cool not to share Had to make up some custom arms to mount the rear shocks so came up with the hair brained idea of casting them out of aluminium Still have no idea if this well work or not but youll never know if you dont try aye Made up a blank out of wood and bog, many hours of sanding later But the real reason im prematurely posting this up is my furnace , I fired it up before and it cranks Made from shit laying around the farm , old clothes dryer, corrogated iron lining and race metal for the insulation and a but of stainless tube for an air pipe Lit it using wood then added coal, was using mrs's hair to blow into and it worked real well for about 10mins till it blew up, oops! Then just chucked the air compressor hose up the end of it and that was sweet but could nowhere near keep up so now im stuck with having to come up with some sort fan/blower to run it Got a big fruit salad/baked bean can for a crucipble (spelt right?) and chucked some old cans and bits of scrap in it and worked sweet as Just gotta round up some casting sand/something suitable to make the mould and I can give it go 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ja1lb8 Posted June 2, 2013 Author Share Posted June 2, 2013 Got a good days work in on my chassis today so heaps of little bits and pieces finished. Probably another solid days work and itl be ready to go to the sand blasters and get some paint on it A while back someone commented that it looked real heavy with all that bracing in it, Since I had some load cells laying around and the readout was charged up (used for wieghing cows) I thought id chuck them under my chassis just out of interest, came in at 140kgs which I didnt think was to badat all. Will get maybe another 10kgs of bits and pieces welded to by the time its finished I almost epect the weight to double by the time i add the suspension, brakes and wheels tho   3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ja1lb8 Posted November 15, 2013 Author Share Posted November 15, 2013 Have managed to get a bit done on this lately, feels like im going round in circles a but tho cause most of it involved cutting bits off I wasnt happy with and redoing them Anyways... Cut back of chassis off cause it looked shithouse and made up new chassis rails, also means I can get a decent sized fuel tank in there Have mounted rear shocks and got all that working, still need to make up new rear arms but have most the bits I need now  1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Ja1lb8 Posted November 15, 2013 Author Popular Post Share Posted November 15, 2013 Front suspension MK3 Brought a nz hobby car manual that says what you can and cant do in regards to building a car in nz, should hve got one when I started this but im not usually one to do things the easy way, So found the suspension arms I made wearnt up to spec, need to to be beefier and need to tig'd, not mig welded plus i didnt like the rod ends so heres the new ones with bushed rod , hopefully should be a bit nicer ride then the solid ones and not wear out like they tend to. Threading the ends for the rod ends, 3/4únf Made up some press tools to put the ball joints in and tryed using my bench vice but no chance so shot down to the local engineers and he let me use his big press Final welding on bottom A arms, still need to make a mount and hole for the shock mount to and somewhere for a bump stop Waiting on bushes and more rod ends to show up so I finish mount these , 16 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ja1lb8 Posted February 14, 2015 Author Share Posted February 14, 2015 So finally got back to this. Was looking thru the tard and came across this origanil chassis for way too cheap to say no so it came home. Rebuilt suspension an motor .no gearbox . Don't really know what to do with it but my body bolts strait on so figured I'd get it going while building up my hot rod chassis had no dizzy, water pump. , and other random bits missing so found all the missing parts that my dad had conveniently stored away many years earlier. Tryed turning it over. Took about 4 hours to unseize . Result bent push rod seized valve 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ja1lb8 Posted February 18, 2015 Author Share Posted February 18, 2015 cleaned all the valves up. Replaced 3 inlet valves that were too rusty. Spent way more hours then i should have tryna lap them in with grinding paste. Some of the seats were too pitted so made up this fly cutter looking thing by welding a piece of tool sleel onto the head of the valve and grinding it up to the correct angle. Not as successful as id wished bit did the job. Needs at least 2 cutting faces idealy to stop it following the contour in the seat face. Lapped it in and should do the trick. Has had 3 new stainless exhaust valves at some stage and hardened exhaust seats.Hoping all the water in the inlet was from sitting outside or a leak in the roof and not some shoddy machine job back in the day thats gone thru one of the water jackets 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ja1lb8 Posted February 21, 2015 Author Share Posted February 21, 2015 So bolted the head back on. Found an old dizzy cap and old copper leads so chucked them on. Tryed firing it up. No go . Couple of hours trying later discovered the Bolt thing that goes through the side of the dizzy was shorting strait to earth causing my spark issues. Sorted that. Radiator bolted on . Turns out its better at keeping water out then in so well have to try solder that up somehow. Anyway played with the timing a but and got it running. A but shit but running none the less. Terrible sound from front of the motor. Suspecting the water pump 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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