Ja1lb8 Posted March 23, 2012 Share Posted March 23, 2012 Discussion thread > viewtopic.php?f=18&t=32726 long way to go yet but have got the frame boxed out and engine and trans mounted with turbos mounted, had to do alot of cutting on mocked up firewall to get engine to fit, using toyota century rear end and brakes all round, making up tubular suspension arms , top ones done only so far Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ja1lb8 Posted March 24, 2012 Author Share Posted March 24, 2012 So got stuck in the arvo and made up bracketry to hold the front nose cone to the chassis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ja1lb8 Posted March 26, 2012 Author Share Posted March 26, 2012 Photos taken in bakersfield california just before shipping , front end was taken off to make it smaller for shipping the body came from a sioux indian resivation and come complete with various bullet holes, cowboys and indians? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ja1lb8 Posted April 1, 2012 Author Share Posted April 1, 2012 This is how not to shorten a driveshaft Should be true enough to make up the hanger bearing bracket thing tho Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ja1lb8 Posted April 5, 2012 Author Share Posted April 5, 2012 Went on a mad mission yesterday round palmy north while missus was shopping looking for some thick walled tube from every scrap dealer i could find in the yellow pages. Was about to give up when after a wrong turn i ended up some back alley that had a real old school engineering shop up the back of it and the boss guy there was kind enough to give me a length of old hydraulic cylinder that was exactly what i was after Cut this up into rings that are going through my chassis rails for the exhaust to go through has a 4"id so 3"" exhaust should fit sweet my only concern is that the metal the rams made of is real hard or high tensile , I hope dosnt crack around where ive welded it one down 5 to go Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ja1lb8 Posted April 9, 2012 Author Share Posted April 9, 2012 Made up bracket to mount the driveshaft hanger bearing on Just need to get the right tap so i can drill and thread the mounting holes now Parents came visiting over easter and dropped off my lathe Pitty it had to be dismantled to make it lighter to shift so now im faced with the job of figuring out where all the bits go, most of its self explanetory but some of its got me scratching my head, this things real old ,if i didnt know better id say noah used it to build the arc but it still seems to do an alright job Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ja1lb8 Posted April 17, 2012 Author Share Posted April 17, 2012 So got this old beater lathe going and cracked into some of the machineing jobs ive been putting off Used a hq holden disk/hub and cut the centre out of it and machined the outside of it down so it would fit inside the toyota century disk Cut the mounting tab things off the stub axle to get the caliper in far enough so have to redrill some new mounting holes but looks like it should all work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ja1lb8 Posted April 19, 2012 Author Share Posted April 19, 2012 Had a busy day getting bits and pieces for the car, Made up the adaptor plate to hold the caliper onto the stub axle and pretty happy with how it came out , Made up a cardboard pattern of what i wanted it to look like then just copied it onto a piece of 10mm plate and alot of grinding later, success Wish i had a drill press to make sure the holes were drilled and tapped strait but i guess clamping it to the chassis and drilling by hand will have to do Total cost of brake conversion $1 for some bolts so stoked about that Also went into the engineers in town to buy a tap to thread the mounting holes for the driveshaft hanger bearing but they wanted 40$ for it so just brought some other bolts that i already had a tap for Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ja1lb8 Posted April 24, 2012 Author Share Posted April 24, 2012 Pulled the motor out again and turned the chassis upside down to get started on the welding on the bottom Had cut the bottom off the chassis rails and welded in plates with captive nuts that the body is going to bolt to instead of having heaps of real long bolts that go right through the chassis Started boxing the rails back in with a false bottom in them so i can put the plumbing fuel, airlines inside the chassis rails Supplies showed up in the form of 2 18" coby mufflers (dunno bout bright orange) and 2 mandrel bent combination things so spent most of yesterday giving myself a headache tryna get the exhaust to fit Main problem being im running 2 3inch pipes and the chassis is only 100mm high so its not easy to get clearance around things and i dont want it hanging out the bottom if i can help it and i especially dont want it banging on things and making a noise when im driviing New mounting plates for the body inside the chassis rail Beginnings of boxing in the chassis Trickiest part of the exhaust, once ive got one side sorted the other side should be a breeze shortened up the input shaft of the steering rack too by building up the diametre with weld and then machineing down Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ja1lb8 Posted April 27, 2012 Author Share Posted April 27, 2012 Finished up the transmission mount, could still use a little but of tidying up but pretty happy with it Was hoping to finish up the middle crossmember thing over the exhaust pipes tonight but my shithouse ryobi drill died I think what was left of the brushes spat out the side and hit my hand but probably expected to much using this bigarse drill bit in this little chinese piece of crap Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ja1lb8 Posted May 6, 2012 Author Share Posted May 6, 2012 Got the main tricky part of the exhaust made up now and looking pretty good, appears thatl work without moving round and hitting everything Only thing im concerned about is the rubbers i used to mount the exhaust getting too hot and catching fire. I think ill have to make heat shields around the driveshaft cv and the other rubber donuts to try and stop them getting damaged by the heat Turned the chassis back up the right way today and bolted the engine back in so can start making the down pipes and finish of the exhaust manifolds Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ja1lb8 Posted May 18, 2012 Author Share Posted May 18, 2012 Something thatl probably interest more of you jap fans out there.Almost finished off one of the exhaust manifolds, just have to mill/linish the mounting surface where it mounts to the engine cause they warped a wee bit during welding. Was a but sceptical that id be able to get all the ports to line up but many hours on the die grinder and all appears to be well, wanted it to look like it belongs on there from factory and with some sort of coating, HPC or the like should come up looking pretty good. Used 1 1/2 inch steam pipe bend cut up to finish up the ends Next started working on trying to get the wastegate actuator to fit for the front turbo, its real cramped down there but managed by redrilling the mounting holes and rotating it around the axis of the turbo and bending the steel shaft bit, will have to extend the shaft by welding to it and same with the mounting bracket but im a bit dubious about welding to it as it might damage the rubber plunger thing in the actuator Anybody out there welded to one of these before? Next up I managed to pull the little steel pipe thing out of the front of the turbo and replace it with a strait piece i cut off this t section thing i found laying around Put the hose on and it all looked factory as Also got hold of these nolathane bushed rod ends off a bloke on nzdatsun.com that had them left over from his project for a good price so thanks heaps Gunna replace the steel rod ends that im currently using on my front suspension as im afraid theyl be to harsh and wear out to quickly Well have to make up new arms to suite but no biggy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ja1lb8 Posted May 25, 2012 Author Share Posted May 25, 2012 More of a repeat of the last update really but its too cold to be in the garage so might as well throw up some more pics Have started making the LH side exhaust manifold but took a few more step by step shots this time , have to find another 1 1/2"steam pipe bend to finish it Cut the flanges off the origanil v12 zorst manifold Mowed up the 2J manifold so it looked like this bolted the flanges to the engine and tacked the rest of the maniflold onto it Cut up tight 90 degree steam pipe bend into 4 pieces and tacked together to get the rite shape Finished welding so need to tidy up with a grinder and a good few hours with the die grinder on the inside and I should be in business Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ja1lb8 Posted June 9, 2012 Author Share Posted June 9, 2012 Went on a massive 1200km round trip over the long weekend to pick up a car for my brother and on the way back drop that off and pick up my tudor body shell from my parents house, all went pretty smooth except the body was moving round a but on the castor wheel things that are bolted to it and eventually rubbed through my strop but didnt go to far so no problem really Have finally got it in my garage at home lined up next to the chassis ive been building and think first up ill have to get my hands on some steel to brace out the inside of it so it doesnt move when i cut the floor and firewall out of it A good reason why i shouldnt be in the car transport business, all care no responsibility Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ja1lb8 Posted June 17, 2012 Author Share Posted June 17, 2012 Got a whole bunch of 25x25mm rhs and framed out the body shell in an attempt to make it rigid so when i cut the floor and firewall out the body doesnt flop around and lose its shape Next I unbolted the old chassis and hung the body up off the rafters so i could push the new chassis undernieth and see how badly it all interfaired Jacked the chassis up to meet the body and just kept cutting whatever it hits out of the way, have now got the chassis right up sitting flush with the mounting plate things on the chassis and it dosnt look like im going to need too much of a tunnel and should be able to get the origanil seats in with not to much hassle so stoked about that Did a but more cutting and bolted the back suspension arms and hub on so I could put a wheel on and see how it all sits, well have to put a guard on and fingers crossed i measured it all right and the wheel well sit in the middle of the opening Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ja1lb8 Posted June 19, 2012 Author Share Posted June 19, 2012 Wasnt really sure how i was gunna modify the firewall to fit the engine so drilled out all the spot welds and pulled the whole thing out, well eventually make a whole new one out of panel steel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ja1lb8 Posted June 23, 2012 Author Share Posted June 23, 2012 Been at it again, Bit more cutting and trimming and got the engine to fit, well still have to cut some more out of the diagonal floor bits where your feet go to get the rest of the turbo piping on , spent ages trying to drill out and use easy outs to get the snapped off bolts out that hold the front guards on and in the end had to admit defeat and just knock them out and put new nuts in.These appear to be the best set of front guards i have in stock as someone has panel beaten them and leaded them way back when (think 70s) but they also deleated the holes in the front for the bumper irons to come out of so well probably have to cut them back out cause i definatly want the front bumpers on there. Put a rear guard on while i was it to test for lowness and turns out its pretty low, by the look of it the running bourd will sit about a 20mm off the floor when its fully lowered, may widen the rear guards a bit cause theres not gunna be alot of clearance, wouldnt mind a but of dish on the back wheels and its not gunna cut it how it is Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ja1lb8 Posted June 23, 2012 Author Share Posted June 23, 2012 How do you get this thing to start a new page? , theres way too many photos on here and it takes ages to scroll right down and load them all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ja1lb8 Posted June 26, 2012 Author Share Posted June 26, 2012 New toys arrived today in the form of this bead roller thing, Came from the states but has definatly got china factor written all over it. Cant complain at the price tho as long as it does what its spost to , got it to roll the swage lines in the floor and firewall. Because it was such a shit day weather wise i couldnt bring myself to doing any work outside like id planned so spent a few hours in the shed tinkering around and made this industrial spec stand for it, Gunna dyna bolt it to the ground but im sure where ever i put it its bound to be in the way. Came with 6 sets of dies but should be pretty easy to machine up whatever other ones i need along the way Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ja1lb8 Posted July 1, 2012 Author Share Posted July 1, 2012 Started making the new firewall this weekend, reasonably happy with it but not sure if im gunna stick with it yet brought a sheet of panel steel, perhaps should of got some thicker stuff as this is .9mm and quite bendy, at least it makes it easy to bend and work with Started by laying out the old firewall and marking around it to get the rough shape then added about 10mm to it before cutting it out Busted out my new swaging machine thing and put this line in it. Should of got a hand doing this as holding up the steel and turnig the handle at the same time didnt do much for the straitness of my lines Turned my bench into a sweet folder using some old rhs that was laying round, worked surprisingly well Put in place and started trimming , got these little metal holder things called clecos off my dad the other day and they work a treat, holds it firmly in place while your working on it but can easily take it on and off as many times as you like Started filling in the cutouts at the back, using these clamp things but not ideal as they leave a gap between the two edges of the metal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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