KKtrips Posted December 22, 2011 Share Posted December 22, 2011 Are those calliper mounts your mate made a one piece dealio? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QCADTA Posted December 22, 2011 Share Posted December 22, 2011 looking good mate. are those the noltec top plates on ya struts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M_C Posted December 22, 2011 Author Share Posted December 22, 2011 Metalskills are good customers of ours at work and all round good guys. Check out their truck signwriting and calendars... Gave me a hard time making parts for a Ford as they are Holden guys. I drew up a dxf file to make it easy for them. PM me with what you need and I'll see what we can sort out. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M_C Posted December 22, 2011 Author Share Posted December 22, 2011 Not sure what the top plates are as they came with the car. Plently of adjustment though and look like decent kit. Helped when getting the alignment done on Tue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M_C Posted December 22, 2011 Author Share Posted December 22, 2011 When my escort grows up it wants to be like yours QCADTA... And Low'nSlows too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QCADTA Posted December 22, 2011 Share Posted December 22, 2011 cheers mate. mines havin a face lift at the moment again. not much to post but will update my thread when done. these things take time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted December 22, 2011 Share Posted December 22, 2011 I remember meeting a fella at the west coast Ford weekend, westport, 2006 who turned up in a not yet road legal mk1 coupe with an essex v6. Same year I met a young fella top of columbo street who was building a mk1 coupe with same engine. He was a big time fan of classic ford magazine and would have styled his in a similar way to yours. I wonder if this is one of those cars? I built a cage similar to that in my late 90's 2.3 chevette project and I had done equally shit welding! Embarassing looking back. I was refused a cert until I removed it as my cert man was not happy with the welding stating that there was no way it would have got a manz ticket. Shit it was a prick to remove as I had well and truely welded it in. Many many grinding discs later..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M_C Posted December 22, 2011 Author Share Posted December 22, 2011 The car did come out of CHC so possible she's one of those. I understand she has been in pieces for quite a while. Original paint was red detailing on all mechanicals and black(?) body. Looking at the '96 declaration cert she already had the engine and bubble arches and been on the road back then. Must have been "interesting" as the declaration lists standard brakes... Not sure how it worked with the state of the rear arches! They were not mini tubbed before the bubbles went on so must have been '80's style jacked up rear or the tires would be sliced to ribbons with the butcher job on the old guards. The cause of much swearing to sort out without damaging the nice job of the bubble arches. Photos to come. I'm not looking forward to getting the cage out, pulling glass etc. Hoping to find a friendly plasma cutter. Good time to replace all the rubbers I guess as she leaks like a sieve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NaN Posted December 23, 2011 Share Posted December 23, 2011 cage to shell gusset only make a difference when; the cage goes forward of the firewall, the shell is weakish or under alot of load, the tie in's hit, A and b pillars, firewall, sills, crossload bearers, and rear up riser in the pan. AND the tunnel at two points end and mid-start area. all and I do mean ALL major load points. With that kind of cage its more a shell re-enforcement than a roll cage. (that's meant to be a big point). The idea being, if your going to do it, do it well. tie in all the major load and stress points into the cage structure and consider the effect when you do it. But, .. if you not expecting a barrel roll at 200kph, .. i would just guesset a few major load points and leave it at that. The cage is MEANT to be separate to the shell, to protect you so the shell becomes the crush area, and the cage the protection of last resort. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted January 18, 2012 Share Posted January 18, 2012 Looking at your brake lines it may be good for you to know one thing. I am fairly certain they limit the amount of rubber hosing you are allowed to use on a car - I'm not sure of the length but it may be something like 2 metres max - those hoses going from the rear calliper look a substansial length... Cletus would be your man to confirm this though.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M_C Posted January 18, 2012 Author Share Posted January 18, 2012 Cheers, I had not heard that. Those lines on the rear brakes are some of the very few lines I have not replaced as they looked pretty new. I think the car has not been run since the hilux diff went in so they should be unused. The Low Volume Cert guy who looked over the car and started the LVC process before I got started working on her didn't mention it so hopefully he won't change his mind! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ESKIN8R Posted January 21, 2012 Share Posted January 21, 2012 What about tapping the thread down to a smaller size now? Was it metric or imperial? Youd most likely be able to find one just a fraction smaller and get a new nut to suite, easier than a new solenoid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepers Posted January 22, 2012 Share Posted January 22, 2012 you could take your starter to an auto sparky and get a new copper electrode put in it? might be cheaper/easier than getting a whole new one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DodgySam Posted January 22, 2012 Share Posted January 22, 2012 WOW...the first time I saw pics of this I thought it was butt ugly. Now I really Like it. I even like the oversized steels! I wanna see/hear it run! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DodgySam Posted January 22, 2012 Share Posted January 22, 2012 WOW...the first time I saw pics of this I thought it was butt ugly. Now I really Like it. I even like the oversized steels! I wanna see/hear it run! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hemi Posted January 22, 2012 Share Posted January 22, 2012 was just reading about your bleeding problems and by the sounds you have sorted it , but they should be bleed with no vacuum to the booster otherwise you cant get a positive feel for the pedal . no doubt this is miles too late but something to keep in mind , especially as booster are awesome and making a positive pedal feel spongey . Looks like escorts are making a comeback on this site albiet less teen and more proper racing track setup .also neat to see a variety of engines in them! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M_C Posted January 22, 2012 Author Share Posted January 22, 2012 Cheers guys. I thought of taking the thread down a size. But its a coarse imperial thread so the minor dia is quite small for the soft copper material. Then I pulled it appart to see if the stud could be swapped, but it had an oddball head and the guts of it looked old with repaired wires etc. Ending up being quite easy for the guys at Onehunga Auto Electrical to sort out a new one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M_C Posted January 22, 2012 Author Share Posted January 22, 2012 I think I have the brakes sorted now. It was a bit of a mission being my first time, new system and some of it plumbed wrong, bad technique... The booster was new and engine not running so it never had a vacuum. Not sure if this made a difference but got I there. Call it a learning experience. Peddle seems good now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M_C Posted January 22, 2012 Author Share Posted January 22, 2012 WOW...the first time I saw pics of this I thought it was butt ugly.Now I really Like it. I even like the oversized steels! I wanna see/hear it run! Glad it was ugly, means I got it at a good price! Had similar discussions at Kuemu yesterday drooling over car porn. I have been offered minilites in the same size and stud pattern as the steels. Tempting, But the steel look good I think, and Everyone puts minilites on Escorts. I'll spend the mag money on other things first I think. Its got a nice rumble that the YouTube vid's don’t pick up. I love it. Just hope it goes around a corner with the V6 up front... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NaN Posted January 26, 2012 Share Posted January 26, 2012 thought: I'd weld another horizontal bar from the roll over loop forward to the a pillar downward cage bar, and mount the seat off that, treat the sill like a crush zone. less chance the seat mounts will come free in a major side impact and more chance the sill will take the impact without hurting you in anyway at all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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