J-W-G Posted October 16, 2011 Share Posted October 16, 2011 Whats better to do with my kent to up the CR? 1) Use 1300 pistons 2) Use flat top pistons and move combustion chamber to the head? 3) 1100 pistons? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted October 16, 2011 Share Posted October 16, 2011 1300 pistons. /I ran high comp 1100 pistons in one of my old 1600s. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J-W-G Posted October 17, 2011 Author Share Posted October 17, 2011 Ive read a little machining is required for the 1300 pistons? What sort of machining? Anyone moved the combustion chamber in the he head and used flat tops? Opinions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Escorto. Posted October 17, 2011 Share Posted October 17, 2011 Make sure you a have a HC head, I.e No chamber in the head at all. Throw in some 1300 pistons Check the valve to piston clearance, Adjust if needed. BOOM!! 10.5 to 1 compression son. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy Posted October 17, 2011 Share Posted October 17, 2011 Im pretty sure its all about reducing the the combustion chamber size in the top of the pistion. If you are planning an engine build its probably worth looking into. When I built my 1600 at first I played around with this type of set up. Ported head, A2 cam grind and maybe the pistons (cant remember) and a 28/36 carb. Went alright but not nice to drive with big flat spot down low. A year later I went down a different path after reading an old "speedsport" Escort tuning book. Balanced and blue printed engine, Kelford 234 cam, better flowed head, petronix ignitor ignition, fitted a VH44 booster and a new pair of 40 DCOE webers. 3.8 in the diff. Drove awesome in traffic and made good power. 15.8 in the quarter. Make it breath and it will make power! Andy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J-W-G Posted October 18, 2011 Author Share Posted October 18, 2011 So now im thinking Ported head 234 cam Ive got a 32/36 carb 1300 pistons And the usual ( New rings, valves etc) Just thinking would it be better to change my diff along with my engine upgrades? atm its 3.54 would a hilux or 3.9 ratio on make any noticeable difference? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy Posted October 18, 2011 Share Posted October 18, 2011 From memory the 3.54 was the 1600 Sport diff ratio and were always sort after. The mk1 sport I had was a 4.1 from factory. I think it used to do about 4000 at 100 km. The 3.8 worked really well with the set up I had. Is the Hilux diff an easy conversion? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glen Posted October 18, 2011 Share Posted October 18, 2011 viewtopic.php?f=48&t=9445 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J-W-G Posted October 19, 2011 Author Share Posted October 19, 2011 Mine atm does 3100rpm at 100 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy Posted October 19, 2011 Share Posted October 19, 2011 http://www.oldschool.co.nz/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=48&t=9445 What are the benefits of this conversion? I dont remember anyone having issues with the standard diff up to around 140hp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
My name is Russell Posted October 19, 2011 Share Posted October 19, 2011 Standard diff is absolutly fine for a 1600, they are only light cars, a hilux diff will just make you go slower with all that extra weight. a std 3.8/ 3.9? is what you want IMO you will get a min of $300 for your 3.5 , if your running bigger wheels a 3.5 might be fine get the engine going and then look at the dif. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J-W-G Posted October 20, 2011 Author Share Posted October 20, 2011 Ive read a little machining is required for the 1300 pistons? What sort of machining?Anyone moved the combustion chamber in the he head and used flat tops? Opinions? Alright we be moving off discussion anyone care to answer q's? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 This is from a well abused memory so someone please correct me if im wrong. The difference between the 1300 and 1600 block was the deck height. There were two different 1600 heads with the later being flat and having no combustion chamber. If you have an earlier head you can skim the head to reduce the size of the combustion chamber. Im not to sure on the size of the 1300 pistons but if retaining the 1600 pistons and having them skimed to reduce the chamber you would also need to skim the block and also include valve clearance in the top of the pistons. I would imagine there are flat top pistons available off the shelf. 15 - 20 years ago these were very common mods and engine shops were probably doing a couple a week so it would be worth having a talk to a local machine shop. Ive got a good book by Paul Davies from bitd called "Tuning Four Cylinder Fords". I dont know if it is still available but it is worth a read. Andy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J-W-G Posted October 20, 2011 Author Share Posted October 20, 2011 Okay Mines a 711m 1600 x-flow so flat head. Any chance you could make that book into a PDF? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 how do you do that? Have the David Vizard book also. Plenty of technical info including all required measurements. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J-W-G Posted October 20, 2011 Author Share Posted October 20, 2011 Google is god http://www.ehow.com/how_4826944_pdf-file-book.html Only if you can be bothered, but hey if anything happens to the originals then you have the pdf copy to fall back on plus to share with the community! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baxter Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 Okay Mines a 711m 1600 x-flow so flat head. IIRC you can pop the1300 pistons straight into a 711m flat head as the pistons are the same except the size of the combustion chambers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krindaryl Posted June 29, 2012 Share Posted June 29, 2012 My old set up was a 1600 kent with flat top pistons on a flat top head with a BCF2 cam,28/36weber,ported and flowed head with 41.3mm intake and 34mm exhaust valves with a 4.11 diff of a alfa GT junior only problem is that I had a lack of top end so the best option is 3.89 maybe it will improve your top end and help you down low Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valiant Posted June 29, 2012 Share Posted June 29, 2012 I've seen inside an Escort motor with flat top pistons. I think 85mm VW pistons were the ones to use in the past. Someone probably makes a new specific set now. The head was an early chambered head that had had a very extensive rework to increase the chamber design and depth. 1100 pistons are unavailable now? And make the compression very high? From memory. I'd keep the 3.5 to 1 diff myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted June 30, 2012 Share Posted June 30, 2012 Flat head, ported. OK. 1300 HC pistons. OK. Big cam? Can be issues with valve clearance to piston top, long duration means the valve is still open when the piston is at the top of the stroke. Also be aware if you are running double valve springs they can fully compress resulting in cam and follower damage or bent pushrods, Any more than a A2 or similar lift and this becomes an issue, have seen it with A2 cam as well but only when larger valves have been installed. If you are running all standard bits then sweet as long as you haven't skimmed the block, tried and tested by many before. If you plan on running high lift or long duration cams be very careful and check everything twice, not so easy get the $ ready. Low and midrange dead spots are mostly tuning, a bit of carb tinkering and conversion to pointless dissy sorts most of it out. Top end flat, fuel supply or to small carb or jets, low spark intensity or can also be valve float if running single valve springs. Dave Visard is the man with these pushrod English engines I highly recommend getting his book. With his book I managed 160hp in my MK 1 race car on avgas and 150 on pump gas (the old leaded stuff), Could have had more but it would have used 2 or 3 engines a season, at this tune they lasted a season of racing. Diff ratios depend on what you intend on using the car for. Road use 3.5 or 3.7 some track use 3.7, 3.9. Maybe 4.1? all track use depends on the track and the top speeds you can achive. I ran 4.3 at Taupo old track, could have run lower but they very very very hard to find and they are prone to losing crown wheel teeth, 100e Prefect from memory so where designed with 16hp and not 160 in mind. 4.1 at Manfield or 3.9 on a cold day. Cold air = more hp + better top speed. 4.3 for hill climbs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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