thegreatestben Posted August 27, 2013 Share Posted August 27, 2013 They are just drains to let coolant out of the block. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yroll Posted September 3, 2013 Share Posted September 3, 2013 Hi recently bought a 2000 1uzfe with ecu, ofc i bought it without a ket.Any way to fix the immobilizer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yroll Posted September 5, 2013 Share Posted September 5, 2013 For £650 you get a full custom loom + immobilizer free ecu at v8solid thou.But I want to do it myself to save money. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ludsonline Posted February 13, 2014 Share Posted February 13, 2014 Cached copy here http://web.archive.org/web/20130210120808///oldschool.co.nz/index.php?showtopic=30736 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamRobertson Posted March 25, 2014 Share Posted March 25, 2014 What happened to this thread? Looks like some of the useful info I could use is gone. I have a 1UZ that I have wired in, triple checked everything and vehicle wants to go, I got 2 injection triggers out of ECU then stops so engine won't run for more than a second. I suspect this is to do with immobilizer in the loom. Can anyone shed any light on this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
durty Posted March 25, 2014 Share Posted March 25, 2014 Dude who wrote the thread initially had a massive cry about something and deleted most of his posts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stillway Posted March 25, 2014 Share Posted March 25, 2014 What happened to this thread? Looks like some of the useful info I could use is gone. I have a 1UZ that I have wired in, triple checked everything and vehicle wants to go, I got 2 injection triggers out of ECU then stops so engine won't run for more than a second. I suspect this is to do with immobilizer in the loom. Can anyone shed any light on this? Check out the link in the post above yours maybe of some use Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pinkytamz Posted April 5, 2014 Share Posted April 5, 2014 have a good look at the wiring what model ecu / engine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamRobertson Posted April 7, 2014 Share Posted April 7, 2014 I have come to the conclusion I have a faulty ECU. This is what I got 12v+ out MREL with ign on 12v+ permanent on B+ 12v+ ign on IGSW 12v- on E01 and E02 12v on one side of all injectors, coil and ign module. Pulse from crank sensor Pulse from both cam sensor I have no ignition module trigger from ecu, no injection pulse from ecu, nothing coming out wire for check engine light, no fuel pump relay '-' output. The way I see it, I have a faulty ECU, weak crank/cam signals or a stupid person looking at it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pinkytamz Posted April 7, 2014 Share Posted April 7, 2014 ok lets start from the top I need to know what model engine and model of ecu . what do you have M-REL turning on ...on the engine you cant get the engine light to work seems to point to maybe a wiring fault . but if you are running a late model ecu with immobiliser system and no transponder key you will never get it to run unless you send your ecu to kelvin at the car tune comp for it to be re-chiped and have this function removed from the ecu ..there are other ways to get around it but lots of time and you need to understand how the system works .. the guy ( nigel ) that wrote this site knows a way aswell ( I think ) anyway I have most factory Toyota wiring for most of these uz if you want to call me 0273573253 Lloyd.. some times a phone call is a lot easier Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamRobertson Posted April 8, 2014 Share Posted April 8, 2014 ok lets start from the top I need to know what model engine and model of ecu . what do you have M-REL turning on ...on the engine you cant get the engine light to work seems to point to maybe a wiring fault . but if you are running a late model ecu with immobiliser system and no transponder key you will never get it to run unless you send your ecu to kelvin at the car tune comp for it to be re-chiped and have this function removed from the ecu ..there are other ways to get around it but lots of time and you need to understand how the system works .. the guy ( nigel ) that wrote this site knows a way aswell ( I think ) anyway I have most factory Toyota wiring for most of these uz if you want to call me 0273573253 Lloyd.. some times a phone call is a lot easier Engine is a series 1 from the best I can tell, model of ecu is 89661-50102 or 1750004011. MREL is turning on main efi relay control side, as far as i can tell from my wiring diagram which has proven to be accurate so far I have no immobilizer, other than the one that grounds the starter relay, but that isnt wired in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pinkytamz Posted April 8, 2014 Share Posted April 8, 2014 your in luck I have a ucf 11 in the shed now being wired up and it runs very nice . ...just check for me the fuel rails are they machined or cast please. RIGHT LETS GO INTO HOW I WIRE THEM ..efi relay is turned on by M-rel and this relay is to only supply B+ and AFM don't use this for the CO of the fuel pump circuit I have a trick for this now that gives a prime for start up . next I wire the ignition relay to turn on the ign to the ecu the trans coil and injectors . what have you done with NSW and STA . I take it your ecu is the 40,40,40, type yes or no please. some of the earlier ecu have have B+1 in pin 32 0f plug( A) that can be missed . I wonder can you check both the plugs to your igniters I had on once that was pluged in but had one bent male pin so was not plugged in and would give the same fault that you have ... next I want you to put a test light into pin 6 of the 40 pin plug (A) and supply 12volts to the clamp end then fit a jump wire from pin 20 of plug ( A ) to pin 69 on plug ( B ) if the ecu is powered up correctly the warning / fault light will light up with the key turned on as a test send me your ECU and I will plug it in to mine or my mates one . if you want to do that its free and would only be over nite .. or take it out of your vehicle and do this feed 12 volts to pins 1 , 31, 32, 33 of plug A earth pins 69, 79, 80, of plug B fit you test light to pin 6 on plug A then supply B+ 12 VOLTS to other end the warning light is an earth out put sorry to ramble on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pinkytamz Posted April 9, 2014 Share Posted April 9, 2014 if any one wants both the SC and LS factory manuals on usb flash drives just let me know am happy to give them out but you will need to send me a flash drive as its about 300mb to big to upload Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pinkytamz Posted April 10, 2014 Share Posted April 10, 2014 fault code 38.............. I found this fault last nite on a older model 1uzfe 40,40,40, type ecu with E1 and TE1 bridge the OD light would flash out 38 . so did the usual google search and looked around then found it code 38 ( and its not in lexstrem either ) 38 is trans oil temp .... so looked around the wiring loom and can not see any extra wiring . so long story short if you have a 8 pin plug to the ect sol plug the extra black and brown wires are to the AT temp sensor /// pin 24 of plug b on the ecu Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamRobertson Posted April 24, 2014 Share Posted April 24, 2014 So turns out its it was a ECU fault, blown earth trace inside ECU, got that repaired and overhaul by anything electronic in nelson, got it back and it starts. How ever no fuel pump relay output from ECU (i earth relay myself to get vehicle to run). Unfortuately it seems to be in some kind of limp mode and won't rev out. Pick up the revs and I it revs pulse up and down, if i plant my foot it sounds like its getting a hard injector cut about 3k rpm. Haven't checked the codes yet, that'll be next. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pinkytamz Posted April 28, 2014 Share Posted April 28, 2014 bridge E1 AND T1 OR TE1 at the ecu then fit a light at the w pin and supply 12 volts to other side of light then turn the key on IT WILL FLASH THE CODES YOU NEED THEM still sounds like you have a wiring fault give me a call am interested in sorting this with you 0273573253 lloyd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pinkytamz Posted April 28, 2014 Share Posted April 28, 2014 what plug config have you got is it 40,40,40 type if so have you fed the ecu the 4p speed signal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adoom Posted May 8, 2017 Share Posted May 8, 2017 Can I remove the diagnostic plug from the engine loom and get rid of like a million wires? I think the answer is yes.... I'd just use TE1 and E1 and W to get fault codes. Like WTF am I going to plug into that big diagnostic plug on top of the engine?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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