fuel Posted September 15, 2011 Share Posted September 15, 2011 I know what Spence is saying and I would mostly agree with it, but people swap cranks all the time on 4G63s and don't seem to have problems with it. Given that you've already paid for the crank I would grab it anyway and throw it in and measure it up and check that it rotates freely and doesn't bind up or have stiff spots in its rotation etc. You could always on-sell it for similar money. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted September 15, 2011 Share Posted September 15, 2011 I concur with Phil - chuck it in - measure it up and if its within spec then run it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shavenYak Posted September 20, 2011 Author Share Posted September 20, 2011 Just got the block back from the shop, planed deck, new rings and hone ropata. OK, so bought this other crankshaft - had it measured up, yep, all good. Have bought standard bearings which are arriving tomorrow, along with timing belt etc.. Got a conversion set today, so started putting everything together. But while I was going over all the parts, I realised the crank I bought is a short nose, while the one in the new engine is long nose. new crank: existing crank: GAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted September 20, 2011 Share Posted September 20, 2011 Will that matter? (genuine question I don't know the right answer to) Can you run the narrow crankshaft cambelt pulley and narrow belt also? (Phil will know) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shavenYak Posted September 20, 2011 Author Share Posted September 20, 2011 Not sure, should be sweet, but I might need to find a slightly longer crank pulley bolt, will have to see what the setup in the ute is once I'm back in Hastings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shavenYak Posted September 21, 2011 Author Share Posted September 21, 2011 Just getting ready to reassemble the block - have plastigauged the mains only so far (ran out of plastigauge). All were sweet at around 0.050mm, except no.1, which had a slight taper from 0.050 > 0.038mm. Is this OK? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuel Posted September 21, 2011 Share Posted September 21, 2011 sounds fine. So long as it's no less than 0.020 or no greater than 0.05ish. Also it seems you can use short nose crank in place of long nose application but you need to use the short nose crank cambelt sprocket and the crank pulley. Perhaps the L200 still has a short nose crank which you could rob those parts from. It seems they changed from short nose to long nose around 1985 on the Starions, unsure for the other models. Still don't know why that 1981 Sapporo block would have had a long nose crank, unless that engine did indeed come from something later model. I guess looking at the engine serial will give an indication of what year the engine block is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shavenYak Posted September 21, 2011 Author Share Posted September 21, 2011 Turns out I hadn't run out of plastigauge, there was still a piece left in the pack. Just did the big ends, they range from about .03 to .07 .07 seems a bit high, but manual says service limit .1, so should be alright eh? That's good about the long/short nose. I was thinking it must have been a case of balance shaft/no balance shaft engines, but it makes more sense how it's the balancer that makes up the length difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuel Posted September 21, 2011 Share Posted September 21, 2011 all 4G63s have balance shafts. The only 4G6x to not have a balance shaft is the 4G61 with a shorter deck height block, and they all have long nose cranks being DOHC. I would be a little concerned at being 0.07mm. Make sure the bearing caps are clean as a whistle between the joins - often people pry them apart with screwdrivers which can munt the face and create excess clearance. I would pull the bearings out, clean everything up again and re-seat the bearings, clean up the faces of the bearing caps and then try again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shavenYak Posted September 21, 2011 Author Share Posted September 21, 2011 often people pry them apart with screwdrivers which can munt the face and create excess clearance. (I need a whistling, innocent emoticon) Yeah you might be on to something there - they can be quite hard to budge! What's the best methtod of getting the caps off without too much chiseling? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuel Posted September 21, 2011 Share Posted September 21, 2011 usually a tap with a rubber mallet on the side works, once it cracks off just a little bit get a large flat bladed screwdriver wrapped in a rag in there and push in using the step up of the driver shaft to drive them apart rather than wiggle the screwdriver scratching the surface. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shavenYak Posted September 25, 2011 Author Share Posted September 25, 2011 Drove up to Hastings this Saturday to swap this good block with the fried one. Got the old motor out, head off, but as I went to replace the thermostat - one of the bolts snapped. So I abandoned it, took the old engine home to inspect, and try to get this bolt out. While the heads here, there's also a snapped exhaust manifold bolt stuck in the head. Looks like I've got my work cut out for me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shavenYak Posted September 27, 2011 Author Share Posted September 27, 2011 HA! I got both snapped studs out today - started off trying to drill out, but didn't have high hopes - center punch was off center, manifold bolt was waay to hard to drill. So went with the welding trick, used the mig to build up metal, then welded a nut on top of this. Worked amazingly well! Both came out without a fight. So now I just have to wait till the 8th, and I'll be going back up to Hastings to finish the job. Oh and one thing I forgot to mention was that when we pulled out the old engine, one of the engine mounts fell out. The rubber had seperated from the steel. So will need to get one of those before going back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shavenYak Posted September 30, 2011 Author Share Posted September 30, 2011 What is this thing next to the sparkplug? Is it some sort of EGR crap? Can't work out where it goes and I don't have a manual for this model. Does anyone have a workshop manual for a 4g63 covering the older carburetted SOHC engines? The one I've got is for '92 models with EFI only. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuel Posted September 30, 2011 Share Posted September 30, 2011 MCA-Jet valves. Have a look at the rocker gear and you'll see a set of tiny valves next to the intake valves. If they aren't there, they have been previously removed and should have blanking plugs in place, but judging from the pic above the cylinder on the right doesn't and the one of the left looks to have something damaged or foreign in there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shavenYak Posted September 30, 2011 Author Share Posted September 30, 2011 oh I see yep seems they've been blocked from the top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuel Posted October 1, 2011 Share Posted October 1, 2011 if it had compression on all four cylinders previously, then I would probably just leave them be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shavenYak Posted October 2, 2011 Author Share Posted October 2, 2011 Where would I go to get one of these little vacuum nipples? Managed to break one today. Easy option would be to tap and block the hole, since it's not being used anyway - but wouldn't mind having it there for future vacuum gauge or whatever. Aaalso..... I would like to replace this water tap thing: Where can I get one of these? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shavenYak Posted October 5, 2011 Author Share Posted October 5, 2011 pic stolen from lowlancer. Which pipe goes where? Big one is inlet, upside down one is breather? Two on left, one is to carb, one is return. Should have marked them when I pulled them off.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB30VB Posted October 5, 2011 Share Posted October 5, 2011 this is a beauty!! never been a mitsi fan (my mate told me to hate them...... ) but have always liked the clean look of these utes, and with quad headlights they're pretty delicious! but fark yeah, this one looks realll nice! assuming thats a repaint? (dont quote me if im wrong...) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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