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Mrs shavenYak's 1985 Mitsubishi L200


shavenYak

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I know what Spence is saying and I would mostly agree with it, but people swap cranks all the time on 4G63s and don't seem to have problems with it. Given that you've already paid for the crank I would grab it anyway and throw it in and measure it up and check that it rotates freely and doesn't bind up or have stiff spots in its rotation etc. You could always on-sell it for similar money.

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Just got the block back from the shop, planed deck, new rings and hone ropata.

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OK, so bought this other crankshaft - had it measured up, yep, all good. Have bought standard bearings which are arriving tomorrow, along with timing belt etc..

Got a conversion set today, so started putting everything together.

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But while I was going over all the parts, I realised the crank I bought is a short nose, while the one in the new engine is long nose.

new crank:

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existing crank:

DSCF1193Custom.jpg

GAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH

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sounds fine. So long as it's no less than 0.020 or no greater than 0.05ish.

Also it seems you can use short nose crank in place of long nose application but you need to use the short nose crank cambelt sprocket and the crank pulley. Perhaps the L200 still has a short nose crank which you could rob those parts from. It seems they changed from short nose to long nose around 1985 on the Starions, unsure for the other models. Still don't know why that 1981 Sapporo block would have had a long nose crank, unless that engine did indeed come from something later model. I guess looking at the engine serial will give an indication of what year the engine block is.

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Turns out I hadn't run out of plastigauge, there was still a piece left in the pack.

Just did the big ends, they range from about .03 to .07

.07 seems a bit high, but manual says service limit .1, so should be alright eh?

That's good about the long/short nose. I was thinking it must have been a case of balance shaft/no balance shaft engines, but it makes more sense how it's the balancer that makes up the length difference.

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all 4G63s have balance shafts. The only 4G6x to not have a balance shaft is the 4G61 with a shorter deck height block, and they all have long nose cranks being DOHC.

I would be a little concerned at being 0.07mm. Make sure the bearing caps are clean as a whistle between the joins - often people pry them apart with screwdrivers which can munt the face and create excess clearance. I would pull the bearings out, clean everything up again and re-seat the bearings, clean up the faces of the bearing caps and then try again.

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often people pry them apart with screwdrivers which can munt the face and create excess clearance.

:rolleyes: (I need a whistling, innocent emoticon) Yeah you might be on to something there - they can be quite hard to budge! What's the best methtod of getting the caps off without too much chiseling?

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usually a tap with a rubber mallet on the side works, once it cracks off just a little bit get a large flat bladed screwdriver wrapped in a rag in there and push in using the step up of the driver shaft to drive them apart rather than wiggle the screwdriver scratching the surface.

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Drove up to Hastings this Saturday to swap this good block with the fried one.

Got the old motor out, head off, but as I went to replace the thermostat - one of the bolts snapped. :(

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So I abandoned it, took the old engine home to inspect, and try to get this bolt out. While the heads here, there's also a snapped exhaust manifold bolt stuck in the head. Looks like I've got my work cut out for me!

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HA! I got both snapped studs out today - started off trying to drill out, but didn't have high hopes - center punch was off center, manifold bolt was waay to hard to drill.

So went with the welding trick, used the mig to build up metal, then welded a nut on top of this. Worked amazingly well! Both came out without a fight. So now I just have to wait till the 8th, and I'll be going back up to Hastings to finish the job.

Oh and one thing I forgot to mention was that when we pulled out the old engine, one of the engine mounts fell out. The rubber had seperated from the steel. So will need to get one of those before going back.

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What is this thing next to the sparkplug? Is it some sort of EGR crap? Can't work out where it goes and I don't have a manual for this model.

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Does anyone have a workshop manual for a 4g63 covering the older carburetted SOHC engines? The one I've got is for '92 models with EFI only.

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MCA-Jet valves. Have a look at the rocker gear and you'll see a set of tiny valves next to the intake valves. If they aren't there, they have been previously removed and should have blanking plugs in place, but judging from the pic above the cylinder on the right doesn't and the one of the left looks to have something damaged or foreign in there.

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Where would I go to get one of these little vacuum nipples? Managed to break one today. Easy option would be to tap and block the hole, since it's not being used anyway - but wouldn't mind having it there for future vacuum gauge or whatever.

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Aaalso..... I would like to replace this water tap thing:

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Where can I get one of these?

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this is a beauty!! never been a mitsi fan (my mate told me to hate them...... :P ) but have always liked the clean look of these utes, and with quad headlights they're pretty delicious! but fark yeah, this one looks realll nice! assuming thats a repaint? (dont quote me if im wrong...)

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