fuel Posted September 13, 2011 Share Posted September 13, 2011 so there's no shaft at all running from off the back of the oil pump? there should be! unless it's been removed and the oil pump drive either grounded down to a stub or a 4G61 oil pump stub fitted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shavenYak Posted September 13, 2011 Author Share Posted September 13, 2011 Ok, weird I'll take some photos tomorrow morning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted September 13, 2011 Share Posted September 13, 2011 Can't you isolate the balance shaft from these things and not bother with them? I've never done it but recall someone saying you can... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuel Posted September 13, 2011 Share Posted September 13, 2011 yeah you can remove them entirely. If there's no balance shaft off the back of the oil pump then that's half the job done already. You want to put a new balance shaft bearing back into the place of the one which came out, but rotate it 90deg or so to block off the oil gallery to the bearing otherwise it will have low oil pressure. This is for a twin cam VR-4 engine but it's all the same in regards to deleting balance shafts - http://www.vfaq.com/mods/balance-shafts.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shavenYak Posted September 13, 2011 Author Share Posted September 13, 2011 Right, so seems the oil pump side shaft has been ground down to a stub, and has had a journal bearing from something else installed (there's no oil hole) The other side, however, has a shaft, but is missing the bearing. I don't think the balance shaft would do a very good job of balancing with that much play in it. So dunno might go ahead and attempt to eliminate it, or maybe just get a replacement bearing. Either way it needs to come out first, which will be my next task. Printing out the workshop manual parts I need. holy crap just totally confused myself trying to collate/print both sides of the pages. pwned by printer logic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuel Posted September 13, 2011 Share Posted September 13, 2011 I would just remove the belt driven balance shaft entirely. Also I realised that the oil pump side doesn't need the bearing pulled out and turned as there is no oil gallery in the block, the shaft is hollow and gets its oil feed from the oil pump itself. Make sure the stump has been welded in the middle to close up the hole. Pull off a couple of the big end and mains caps and check the condition of the crank and the bearings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shavenYak Posted September 14, 2011 Author Share Posted September 14, 2011 Think this was crank pulley end Think this was the next one along: Piston #1 Here's the balance shaft - doesn't look too bad considering it would have been flapping around without the bearing. Haven't checked bearings before, so not sure how good is a pass? Pretty smooth overall, just a bit worn in the middles? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted September 14, 2011 Share Posted September 14, 2011 Them journals should be fine - chuck a new set of shells at it and plastigage them.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shavenYak Posted September 14, 2011 Author Share Posted September 14, 2011 Right - never done it before, but doesn't seem too hard! Off to get me some plastigauge then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted September 14, 2011 Share Posted September 14, 2011 Have you marked all the main and big end caps etc before dismantling them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuel Posted September 14, 2011 Share Posted September 14, 2011 ^^ yeah I would probably do that. Though if possible I would take the crank down to an engine shop and spend $40-50 and get the journals measured up and polished. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shavenYak Posted September 14, 2011 Author Share Posted September 14, 2011 Ok, then I use the measurements they give me to determine if the crank needs machining, or will they know the service limits for it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted September 14, 2011 Share Posted September 14, 2011 They should know.. PS make sure you line up the oil holes in the bearing shells to the oil holes in the block when you reassemble motor.. Not sure if you have done this before and I may be just giving very obvious tips... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shavenYak Posted September 14, 2011 Author Share Posted September 14, 2011 Nah never done this before, so any advice is gold! I will need to wait to buy main and big end bearings until I know if the crank has been reground right? If so I may need to buy oversize ones? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted September 14, 2011 Share Posted September 14, 2011 It will say on the back of the bearing shell if they are oversize - it will say something like 010 or 020 etc (thats thou oversize) But it still may pay to wait in case the journals are worn and need a regrind (I doubt that would be the case unless one of the bearings has picked up) edit - like this - it may be in the middle of the shell or at the either end - depends on manufacturer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuel Posted September 14, 2011 Share Posted September 14, 2011 it would be easier to just find another crank rather than re-grind the crank. The cranks are nitride hardened and grinding the crank removes the hardening from the surface. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shavenYak Posted September 14, 2011 Author Share Posted September 14, 2011 Ok, I'm wondering if I should bother taking it in to a shop or if I should just go with standard bearings and plastigauge at home? Is there a few different gauge ranges to choose from? 0.1mm is factory limit, so I should buy a plastigauge that covers that range right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuel Posted September 14, 2011 Share Posted September 14, 2011 from memory you want the finest range plastigauge, I think it comes in the green (or was it red?) packet. I had an L300 with SOHC 63 I picked up that had blown its head gasket between cylinders 1 & 2, and also ran the big ends on cylinders 1 & 4. I literally just ordered new standard sized bearings, rings, gaskets etc and slapped it back together giving the cylinder walls a hone with a drill mounted 3-stone hone and polished up the crank journals the best I could and it ran fine afterwards. That said I did sell it the week after so I don't know how long the engine would have truly lasted. Personally myself I would drop the crank in to be measured (to make sure it's within spec or hasn't already been ground) and then polished up. They probably wouldn't go ahead and polish it if the measurements aren't within spec. Then assemble the motor with STD sized bearings and using plastigauge to check the clearances still. Make sure you use proper engine assembly grease or any moly grease. The SOHC 63 is such a cheap engine to rebuild, the parts amount to no more than $200, they're easy to disassemble/assemble and require no special tools or procedures to assemble like the newer motors. I have a Mitsubishi workshop manual in PDF format for the 4G6x engines if you want me to e-mail it to you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted September 14, 2011 Share Posted September 14, 2011 Get RED matey potatey FYI - Normally the red (0.051 - 0.152) is used for worn engines and green (0.025 - 0.076) for new rebuilds (blue and yellow is not normally used in run of the mill automotive stuff) http://www.plastigaugeusa.com/how.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuel Posted September 14, 2011 Share Posted September 14, 2011 nah I would definitely use green because I'm pretty sure the tolerances for the 63 are on the lower end of the scale. This would be especially true when putting together the motor with NEW bearings etc. *edit* found the specified clearance is 0.02 to 0.05mm with the absolute limit being 0.1mm - you wouldn't even be able to measure that with the red one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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