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1963 Morris Mini Discussion


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Your problem will be something really simple that once sorted you'll be smacking your head that you didn't think of that one. I once spent a few days with the same problem and all I needed to do was run some emery paper between the contact points and it fired straight up! (Give that a go, even if they are brand new).

Firstly, take the dizzy cap off and try and start it. If you have a spark at the contact points then you know if is either cap, leads or sparkplugs. If not, then you have a problem elsewhere.

Also, you need to check the timing of the dizzy. The position it is in in the pictures looks a little strange. Usually the vaccum advance unit is pointing in about the 2'oclock position when timed correctly. Put the engine to TDC on No.1 cylinder (screwdriver down the sparkplug hole), have the timing marks on the flywheel (little cover above the clutch, you need a mirror to see the marks) lining up, and the dizzy rotor should be pointing to fire to cylinder No.1.

Anyway, let us know if you have a spark between the points first. We can work from here. I wouldn't go and buy new leads/cap etc yet as you probably wont need them!

Nick

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had a look

power to the coil - check

power into the distributor - check

thats where things go awry, was getting power across the points, then none, then some (not while it was turning :lol: ) my suggestion was to strip the dissy apart and scrub the crap out of it, and replace the old cloth wires.

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Sweet. There isn't much electrical stuff within the dizzy body that could be causing that tho. Maybe a bad earth (not sure if the dizzy needs to be earthed, probably does). Pretty much its filled with springs and weights. I would look at all connections, engine earths, battery earth etc. Failing that, stick a 9V battery to your tongue and see what happens. Cloth wires caused me problems with the cloth falling off and the wire being black (looks like an earth) underneath :?

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In that servicing guide it has the other shoe upside down so it has the gap at the top I just assumed that's how it fit giving it even distributions of the shoe it makes sense in the picture and made sense when I was putting it together since it fitted the holes etc that way

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Re non starting.

A couple things which have got me in the past.

1. Check to make sure there is enough gap in the points. If too close you'll get issues.

2. Plugs onto coil. If pins rather than spades make sure the sockets are tight.

3. Ballast coil vs non ballast coil. Not sure way a mini needs but make sure u have the right one

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Some progress there but take your time mate. That shoe definitely is missing any pad! Parts like brake shoes and cylinders end up quite cheap in the long run so if you need new ones I would skimp and save for them.

Re. your brake spring fitting issues. I've just bought a new car set for my car:

These are the springs you need for the front (assuming twin leading show drum brakes)

img1091vga.jpg

These are the springs you need for the rear brakes:

img1092vga.jpg

You will note the front springs have a funny hook on one end. When you disassemble the brakes (assuming they are still together) note how this little bend hooks into the shoe. If they are already apart I might be able to whip my wheel off to get you a picture.

Re. Taking the wings off. The front wings (with the headlight in them) are attached by spot welding down the exterior seam against the A pillar (There is a metal cover over the seam you will have to prise off first). They are also spot welded to the inner wing down the drip rail, and again are spot welded to the front panel via a seam inside the wing (below the light). Taking them off without damaging them is quite a job but working carefully with a thin cutting disc and spot weld drill and you should be able to get them.

Anyway. Hopefully the cleandown of the dizzy does the trick. I can't quite make out that picture of the dizzy so am unsure what you have done there.

Nick

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That photo of the brake shoes looks like there is no pad on the Rightmost shoe but there is. It starts a couple inches from the end. The same thing happens on the lower end of the leftmost shoe in the next photo. I'm pretty sure that is normal. Looks like you have 2mm minimum so just check that is above the min required.

Hint. Take photos before dismantling things like brake drums, dashboards , . That is a good way of recording shoes orientation,spring hook locations etc

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