BlownCorona Posted October 10, 2015 Author Share Posted October 10, 2015 as per the ever helpful oldschool community. i have taken in a few different options and settled on the following for the conversion to trigger wheel and wasted spark. (all photos just stolen off the net since the parts are still in the shed) i have myself a 4 post coil form a subaru imprezza and the matching ignitor a Cherry hall effect sensor from RS Components and all i need to sus out now is the trigger wheel itself, i will probably use a motorbike sproket like in the datsun video but will consider all options. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted October 10, 2015 Author Share Posted October 10, 2015 just putting this here for referece and correct me if im wrong, but the Subaru igniter will be expecting a logic level input? and ill need to make the modifications to the ecu to accommodate this yeah? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted October 22, 2015 Author Share Posted October 22, 2015 i was gonna copy that guys motorbike sprocket idea, but got a couple of sprockets out of my parts pile and it really looked like more effort than it was worth to try and file one up to fit in the dizzy, and since i have slowly been self teaching myself solidworks for various ideas i figured this would be the smarter way to go about things, will double check all the dimensions etc and perhaps add some 'spoke' design, but otherwise this will get sent off to autobend pretty soon and then ill be good to go 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted October 24, 2015 Author Share Posted October 24, 2015 i remembered a little detail called minimum tooth requirements for the hall effect sensor. looked them up this time and came up with a revised wheel design. this will get sent off to autobend next week to be cut out. any recommendations on material? does stainless work, or will i just need to paint the wheel to stop corrosion (do they even work painted?) also contrary to the nice cad designed wheel. i welded up a nice/rough bracket to hold the coil and ignitor. looks kinda rough on its own, but quite good with all the parts fitted to it. also made up the extension to the loom for the wasted spark gear this morning, will just need to be soldered into the plug and suitable rewire on the inside of the ecu. some nice aliexpress HT lead spacers will probably get ordered too to tidy up that side of business. also looking at that photo i really need to get some split tubing or something to hide away the rest of the loom! discuss //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/30375-flibois-1971-toyota-corona/page-7 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted October 28, 2015 Author Share Posted October 28, 2015 got my trigger wheel back from manufacture today, im sure its old hat to alot of you guys but pretty bloody stoked with my first computer designed part fitting perfectly it will actually sit a little lower than this, but it had a little lip in one spot where the laser started and stopped. no problem with a file (all the edges will need a quick dressing) here you can kinda see the cam profile that it sits over and when on all the way will be flush with if i remember to, ill take it all to work tomorrow and install the sensor and i should be good to go for engine running this weekend! 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted February 5, 2016 Author Share Posted February 5, 2016 oh shit so i havnt updated this thread since oldschool helped sus out my running issues, in the megasquirt questions thread. i need to buy you all a beer! this is now running super sweet, need to replace the inlet manifold gasket after the fire but thats no big deal/was a gamble so see if i needed to do it or not. The throtle cable was pretty fucked and i hated the TPS mount/linkage abortion so had a good think about the setup and came up with this solotion. Honda CB360 throttle cable which splits, and i made this cable actuated TPS mount at work with ali offcuts ewhich i am super proud of, looks far more professional than anything else ive ever fabricated, and having no real training in fab work im super happy with it. needs a real return spring, the pen spring was just a proof of concept thing. the loose cable end will go to the carbs and the tps will be pulled open at the same rate as the carbs. all with adjustable tensions etc. once this is installed (im going to need to re jig the pedal end some how but shoulnt be too hard. it can go for a wof as everything else i want to do doesnt affect legal things. really looking foward to seeing the difference full digital ignition has made. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted April 16, 2016 Author Share Posted April 16, 2016 took this for a wof yesterday and it got failed on modified gearbox crossmember needing cert, which i completly forgot was even modified as noone has ever picked on it in my 6 years of ownership. so now im pretty sick and tired of unpredictable wof issues, and theres always something not legal or needing a cert, that was fine last time so im coming around to the idea of just certing it for everything. engine (6r - 18r) gearbox + crossmember (4spd - 5 spd) lowering (with my nice advans and white writing tires it sits about 80mm off the ground) seats (porche 911) engine power increase (unsure if it breakes the threshold though) its an expense that i didnt really want, but with the way times are changing it seems wof guys are less inclined to let modifications that are safe slip by. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted April 30, 2016 Author Share Posted April 30, 2016 Started collecting little bits and pieces to just tidy up a few of the rough edges before i go for cert. i assume ill need a driveshaft hoop, but ill wait to be told that. couple of aliexpress special catch cans branded as greddy hah (actually awesome quality). And a FuelFlow Electric fuel pump which should see me with much more stable fuel pressure than my current setup which is a factory mechanical pump and some dodgy regulator which i have been expecting to fail for years. One for the oil so my engine bay shouldn't get covered in a thin film of oil, and one that i will use in a slightly different manner, as a radiator reservoir, going to use the drain point and put a hose fitting in there so that it can fill and unfill, as currently it just dumps the expansion on the floor. This flexi chrome U channel stuff again from ali, is also pretty sweet. i mainly just wanted to protect the edge of my doors, but i also like how the trim looks. Some replacement k&n air filters. also have a couple of other bits on their way to help tidy and dress the engine bay up couple sets of these lead seperators to keep the wasted spark setup looking tidy. each set has a two 'two lead blocks' and one four and also came across these tomei reservoir covers that were cheap and tickled my fancy, they will offer no increase in performance of value but for some reason i still liked them so orderd a couple black ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted May 1, 2016 Author Share Posted May 1, 2016 fitted up the new airfilters and fabricated a braket for the catch tanks out of some alloy flat stock. pretty happy with it. will get a coat of flat black paint once i pick some up. 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted June 7, 2016 Author Share Posted June 7, 2016 Some people may have seen some chatter in parts wanted. But what eventuated was me being convinced to just make what I wanted on CAD. For ages I've wanted a nice raised txt rocker cover. Next to no aftermarket options for the 18r bar some super rare items. I've gone for a TRD 3k-r style cover as my engine is loosely similar to that engine. The letters will be raised 4mm. Just need to learn how to make cnc router tool paths and I can hopefully cut it out at work. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post BlownCorona Posted July 18, 2016 Author Popular Post Share Posted July 18, 2016 Have finished off my custom rocker cover. changed my design slightly once i was made aware i was not going to be able to cnc router my original design easily. still more than stoked with the outcome. this more or less concludes the amount of tidying up in the engine bay im going to do. bar some little thinks like paint strip and polish the oil cap, and try do something about the choke cable cutting across the engine now it has the nice cover. ill probably re tape the loom once its gone through cert and i dont need quick access to anything. wouldn't mine getting rid of the blue on the head at some point, but ill leave that for another day. the adapter for my new bosch coolant sensor arrived today, so i can fit that and actually have the ECU read a usable coolant value. not really much else to do i think before i roll it down for cert. link to discussion - //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/30375-flibois-1971-toyota-corona/page-7 10 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted August 13, 2016 Author Share Posted August 13, 2016 picked up these gutter monsoons from mint16! just need to make up some different mounting tabs and they will go straight on! they even fit over the chrome belt trim i fitted earlier in lieu of protective rubber. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted August 20, 2016 Author Share Posted August 20, 2016 monsoons are fitted. just some longer bits of 2mm aluminum with a bend it in and covered in heat shrink. stoked. also seeing as the car is ready to go for cert and just waiting untill i move house next week naturally ive started to consider undertaking major modifications... essentially i never intended to cert the car so kept everything fairly tame, but now im gonna feel a bit jipped after spending the money and going to the hassle of cert for quite small things. that and ive been watching a fair amount of shows like roadkill and im getting a serious amount of supercharger pine. couple that with ive really been missing boost in my life, and i dont want to hack up my daily 2jz altezza although it would be awesome with supra gear in it. so im now really interested in the idea of slapping a small sc12 or sc14 supercharger on the corona. i wouldn't be running a great deal of boost as compression is fairly high, probably around the 5psi mark, just enough to feel but not so much it starts breaking things. my main consideration is whether i stay with the carbs (it would pain me greatly after all this to get rid of them), go back to a single carb and blow that, or convert to EFI, where i could probably gut and plug the mikuni carbs and turn them into throttle bodies, while fitting injectors to the manifold. ill look alot further into this once ive moved house but feel free to tell me why this is a bad/good idea here.. //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/30375-flibois-1971-toyota-corona/page-7 pic for thread... wont be this awesome Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted October 26, 2016 Author Share Posted October 26, 2016 so things happened a little slower than planned due to buying a house and getting rid of my old rental property. but the second that was all sorted i made the call to OSGC ashkellybarr and sorted out a Toyota SC12 supercharger in great nick, and he also supplied both the manifolds, bracket and tensioner pulley and the bypass valve. as well as a 7mgte supra throttle which is suitably large. i also grabbed an sr20det water pump pulley from dad that will drive the blower at 1:1 and bolts right onto my crank pulley! needless enough to say im very excited to get this fitted up. but first i need to sort out the cooling system, as it wasnt in great order and overheating. the radiator top tank was cracked. and although repairable (ive not scraped it) i opted to go for a nice thick alloy rad to help with the future boost plans. i figured this would sort out the overheating quicksmart. i was wrong... so it still over heated. and after some investigation involving dropping all the coolant out and checking the thermostat and water pump. i discover the water pump to be fine, as expected its only a few years old and good quality. but the thermostat seemed temperamental with its opening when in a cup of boiling water. so i stopped in to see Mr MK1 at BnT and picked up a tridon high flow thermostat and figured that will for sure be the issue. i was wrong once more. it still overheats, at this point im running out of components to have actually failed. im currently waiting for it to cool off and ill double check the timing, but i doubt its that. It has a brand new radiator and stat, good water pump, new coolant and even a bit of water wetter from work. all the hoses are good, and its not boiling any water off when over heating and sucking coolant from the overflow back up to its original level so its sealed well. if i dont find anything wrong with the timing, i think i will have to pull and inspect the head and gasket. i need to take the engine apart anyway to prepare it for boost, but id have rather had a known solid cooling system to begin the endevour with. SO if anyone has any more ideas before i do remove the engine and take it apart id LOVE to hear them! Discussion - //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/30375-flibois-1971-toyota-corona/page-8 Hey car, Fuck you! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted October 26, 2016 Author Share Posted October 26, 2016 timing is bang on thanks to the megasquirt running the show. still really unsure whys its overheating then 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted October 27, 2016 Author Share Posted October 27, 2016 In an unrelated and probably unlikely to help development. It looks like I'm going to be getting a twin cam 18r-geu which will receive the blower now 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted November 7, 2016 Author Share Posted November 7, 2016 18rgeu! 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted November 13, 2016 Author Share Posted November 13, 2016 couple of annoying discoveries. #1 is, it seems the engine is seized. ive not done a great deal of investigation other than the sump was off and it looks all good in there + no metal in the pan or oil. im hoping its just frozen up since the car was sitting in a paddock for years. #2 is less of a surprise, the brake booster conflicts with the inlet plenum, as i was expecting to see, but held out hope. my options seem to be run non boosted brakes or something like a vh44 remote booster. but the engine is sitting on its mounts. and nothing else seems to conflict so thats great. even looks like there will be a nice amount of room for the blower and intake over the other side of the engine in the future! opinions on the best route to take? //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/30375-flibois-1971-toyota-corona/page-8 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted November 14, 2016 Author Share Posted November 14, 2016 spoke to the mate who i got the motor from, and it was running well when parked up about 4 years ago. but judging by the cam cover oxidation, id say it was damp and this caused the engine to freeze up. got a 50/50 mix of ATF and Acetone sitting in the bores now, so hopefully that will sort it out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted November 15, 2016 Author Share Posted November 15, 2016 The engine didn't require much force to turn over after 24hrs of soaking. And now spins well with what feels like good compression. I'll need to grab my comp tester from dad soon though. Almost slung the engine in for good, till I realized all the brake booster and seize issues had side tracked me from my other main consideration, which is fitting a high pressure pump and fuel lines, which will be much easier without the engine in the bay. So that's next on the agenda. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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