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BlownCoronas 1971 Toyota Corona


BlownCorona

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On 6/14/2017 at 13:26, Fliboi said:

No plans for an intercooler if I can get away with it, it'll be an absolute nightmare trying to get pipes out the front. Only going to be running around 5-6 psi so shouldn't have any issue. 

Google "barrel water to air intercooler"

 

ive got pumps and heat exchangers I'm not using witch would save on kit cost

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ive seen them. actually went looking for such an item as i was sure it must exist if i do need it. but i highly doubt i will. 

plus i really dont want to ruin the aesthetics with an inter cooler, the photos are pretty terrible cause it was on a cellphone at night in a poorly lit garage, but in person the system look so awesome and once painted will very much look like a period correct power adder kit.

ill be running an inlet air temp sensor so will monitor and see how it goes, but for now im focused on getting it running!

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Fairenough

They can be made to look pretty sweet and simple.

ive seen setups with pumps hidden in the grill so all you see is the intercooler. With water fittinging facing down to their hidden

 

but yeah understand thecwant to keep it simple and running being first priority 

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  • 5 months later...

its going to be flat and follow the slight curve of the bootlid. ive look at a million photos over the last few months and settled on this style. as i can definatly make it look good on the cheap (important right now) and i cant buy a glass spoiler to suit my car, certaintly cant make one that will look any good etc. plus im liking the very subtle american twist the car is getting. 

Image result for nascar style spoiler

Image result for nascar style spoiler

 

 

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Wait.  What have you done there?

Are your smaller fixings static?  I assumed you'd run hinged fixing with turnbuckle style adjustment so you could dial in angle if you wanted.  Granted, it's not a race car so isn't really required but yeah.  Also the way the links are mounted would provide next to no wing stability at all.

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the wing isnt adjustable, and would be pretty hard to get to hinge and look nice due to the curve of the bootlid. the rod stays are adjustable but dont need to be. its 100% for looks and some research seems to sugest it may help with fuel economy due to less drag but if that actually happens itll just be a bonus. 

between the angle brakets and the supports its very solid. if i push on it the whole car moves. everything is somewhat triangulated.

through looking at pics of these kinda wings i noticed that 90% of them, although they had adjustable turnbuckles, were not actually adjustable, and i made the call that i wasnt going to need to actually adjust it, so no point wasting more money and thought on a hinge setup that would probably have looked less tidy, where on a race car thats not such an issue. 

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Hey man, congrat's on getting the blower working you clever bastard.

I was wondering if there is a reason the stays are vertical in both of the above pics? Your wing would be unsupported in the middle and at both ends? maybe inverse the stays?

Spread the load across the wing better? Neat idea though man.

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Vertical stays would be stronger, these stays are just some that were available for a good price, the spoiler and brackets are 2.5mm stainless so it doesn't really matter where it's supported from cause it's very rigid. 

I fit them this way cause the boot skin is pretty thin and I was more concerned about point loading the boot so opted to spread the load out there. Vertical stays would also get around this issue but on an angle seems to work just fine and I like the look, which let's face it, is 100% the reason I built a spoiler in the first place! 

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  • 8 months later...
  • 7 months later...

from memory i also cracked the bleeder on the side of the master to see what happens and the wheels released. but i cant remember for 100% certainty. 

anyway since its just a master cylinder bolted straight to the firewall (and a bunch of extra bracing) theres only one pushrod. i had a look at it before i had to pack up for the day/week and im pretty sure it wasnt holding pressure on, non the less i had the opportunity to take about 5mm off the end of it no worries, haven't had a chance to fit it but will do, and see if that fixes the issue first up. 

i think ill also recruit someone to help me bleed the brakes the old fashioned way, i borrowed a compressed air bleeder from work and im not that sure it works very well. it sure sucked the fluid through but the bubbled seemed to never stop. 

 

 

i miss the days when this car was my one and only daily. and to think, i had delusions of sorting the brakes today and trying to book in a cert on my day off on friday. HA! :( day off probably wont even be spent working on the car either!

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  • 2 months later...

Far out, that is some bad pitting man! Condolences. 

On the plus side, if you think it went awesome before, it'll blow your mind once you get a decent bottom end into it.

 

It's getting pretty hard to find 18R blocks now, so might be best to go oversized. Are there any friendly engine reconditioners in CCH who might be able to help? Also, what to the valves and seats look like? Hopefully not as corroded as the bores. 

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ive got a lead on an old school reconditioner that 2 of my work mates have worked with (one even did his apprenticeship with him) and a third work mate has been a customer. he sounds experienced and well priced. im unsure what sort of a bill to expect though. 

i can buy 1mm over pistons but im not all that sure thatll be enough 1.5mm (90mm) would be preferable if i can find something thatll cross over. 

ive not looked at the valve seats, its another thing i didnt really worry about because of the good comp test ect. will have a look once i grab a valve compressor. hopefully they arnt fucked too. 

 

it genuinely did go well. im very surprised to say the least. 

 

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