Rhyscar Posted October 3, 2024 Author Posted October 3, 2024 7 hours ago, Sungai Sungai said: big flaccid penis vibes but if it goes hard it goes hard It will go hard. Had a few childish giggles cutting it out Quote
GARDRB Posted October 3, 2024 Posted October 3, 2024 9 hours ago, Sungai Sungai said: big flaccid penis vibes but if it goes hard it goes hard that's what she said Quote
Rhyscar Posted October 3, 2024 Author Posted October 3, 2024 17 minutes ago, GARDRB said: that's what she said She also said 130mm was long enough... touchy subject maybe 2 Quote
Popular Post Rhyscar Posted October 19, 2024 Author Popular Post Posted October 19, 2024 Been getting into modelling the airbox. Isn't as large as I initially thought so not too worried about 3D printing it now - its also got a good selection of curves and shapes to keep it strong. I've decided to add a sheetmetal alloy frame to the outside to provide a little extra support, but otherwise I'm confident in the strength it'll have. Next step is to slice off the first 2 trumpets and do a test-print to check for clearances The trumpets turned out pretty well. They aren't 100% perpendicular to ITB face, but pretty damn close. Making them perfect was an exponential amount more modelling work, so this will do. Trumpet approx 120-125mm long and goes from 49mm at base out to 63mm before the bellmouth. I'm going to be honest, it was pretty difficult to model a digressing profile swept through an arch... Bellmouth has 20-25mm clearance in the tightest spots to the outer airbox walls. A little more would be nice, but struggling for physical space. I put some bulges in the base to help give a little extra clearance - hopefully while avoiding the alternator post & throttle cable which is pretty closeby. Perhaps I should reduce the taper on the trumpet and bellmouth size to create a bit more clearance? Airbox capacity just over 13L, so not as big as I'd like, but ramming air into it through the grill should make up for it. After a bit more deep diving I'm little worried about the 1.6L Peugeot 206 filter size - it's slightly smaller than a standard 2zz filter. K&N should be less pressure drop than factory, however, I'm also wanting as many doorts as possible. Unfortunately, I can't find anything off-the-shelf in a similar profile (95mm) but longer (>450mm). Another option is making my own filter from uni filter foam - would catch the bugs at least! Anyway off to the shed to solve the irritatingly-difficult-to-solve unlock reverse in my 6 speed gearbox. 10 1 Quote
Roman Posted October 19, 2024 Posted October 19, 2024 When I was looking for a filter idea for echo (and future purposes) I did a sort by price on the repco website, and did a click and collect on 1x of everything that cost less than $2 on clearance sale. You're welcome to borrow the magic box if it's helpful hahaha You might be able to fit two of the Mercedes ones on top of each other if you want a long/skinny. https://www.repco.co.nz/parts-service/filtration/air-filters/k-n-performance-air-filter-33-2193/p/A1269832?rgfeed=true&cid=google-shopping&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwsc24BhDPARIsAFXqAB1pM7TxCwegKJMgkEs4hOjCtq_VJ0QGd-1Uymoj8q0MXa8xR7-WTRMaAiFIEALw_wcB 1 2 2 Quote
Rhyscar Posted October 19, 2024 Author Posted October 19, 2024 Thanks Dave and that is a brilliant idea for trying to figure out air filter sizes! I hadn’t come across that merc one yet. Ideally I want one 600mm long and just under 100m high. My current method has been scouring through summit racing using the size filter to narrow my search 😆 Quote
Truenotch Posted October 20, 2024 Posted October 20, 2024 Can you make two of these work? https://nzairfilter.co.nz/panel-filter/33-2931.html Maybe one of these? https://www.repco.co.nz/parts-service/filtration/air-filters/k-n-performance-air-filter-33-2193/p/A1269832 1 1 Quote
Rhyscar Posted October 20, 2024 Author Posted October 20, 2024 6 hours ago, Truenotch said: Can you make two of these work? https://nzairfilter.co.nz/panel-filter/33-2931.html Oh yeah two of those would work mint! Thanks heaps 5 Quote
Popular Post Rhyscar Posted November 14, 2024 Author Popular Post Posted November 14, 2024 The reverse saga has finally come to an end! So I've been fighting an ongoing battle to figure out the reverse on my custom shifter. Glad to say I've finally got it sorted - although it's been quite a journey. Having to push the car onto the road whenever I want to take it for a quick drive is bloody hard work! First of all, I ended up rebuilding my shifter and swapping the fwd/back & side/side linkages as they have different gain ratios (1.6:1 vs 1:1). This condensed the side/side movement which I was hoping would give me enough movement. It didn't work, although turns out this is the way I had designed it to work in the beginning - somewhere along the way I forgot how to put it together properly. lol. This ruled out the issue being with the shifter throw or angle of linkages etc - provides at least 60mm of output travel without any issues. So I dove into the internet to try look for answers on the gearbox end. Lots of people convert 2zzge's & c60's into 'new' model MRS's, but I found very little info regarding this issue. Mostly due to MRS people being weirdo's and/or not very mechanical.. Reading between the lines of what I found, I decided my issue was the force needed to overcome the reverse lockout spring force. Due to my shifter having a short throw, I believed I didn't have the force to overcome the blockout spring. So @Geophy and I spent an evening removing material from the spring seat, ended up reducing spring pressure by 30% by removing 8mm of pre-load with the use of some handy fish scales. So after this didn't work, I went down the line of trying to figure out if I've got all the right bolt-on bits on my gearbox. It was so long ago I can't remember exactly how I got it and what I may have used from my old C56. Turns out everything was A-OK, apart from my shifter cables. So measured the throw on a factory car which identified the issue Had run out of adjustment on my rod end at the shifter end (reverse needed more 'push') After some investigation, I found the cables were limiting the throw. I think they were from a C52 originally, so no surprises that something about them wasn't right. At this point, the easiest answer (cause replacing the cables is a massive pain!) was to add 20mm to the gearbox end mount - moving the H pattern further along its available 58mm of travel... I went a little more than the 8mm I needed, so I could fine-tune the rest at the shifter end by shortening push rods etc. Also allows for some cable stretch in the future. So end result is that reverse works now and the spacing for rest of the gears is great! Super happy to have a fully functioning gearbox and the shifter actually works fantastic. It's actually very intuitive to use and position is so close to steering wheel. In hindsight, I actually wish I didn't modify the reverse blockout spring as it isn't as heavy as I'd like now. Oh well. Also relieved it isn't a complete fuck up after all the years of effort and thought put into it Best use of skateboard bearings and cheap rod ends I've ever found that's for sure! While I'm waiting for airbox things, car will be pulled apart to finish some stuff off. Won't be making drag day as we've got a wedding that weekend. Kinda nice to have the pressure off to make drag day to be fair. - Powdercoating - Mount harnesses & rollcage padding - Plumb-in Fire extinguisher - Carbon fibre doorcards Hoping to have it ready for dyno and basic trackdays early next year. 2nd child is due early March so push is on to get it pretty well sorted by then. 20 1 Quote
Rhyscar Posted November 15, 2024 Author Posted November 15, 2024 On 20/10/2024 at 16:06, Truenotch said: Can you make two of these work? https://nzairfilter.co.nz/panel-filter/33-2931.html These arrived today looks like they will work perfectly! 8 Quote
Popular Post Rhyscar Posted November 30, 2024 Author Popular Post Posted November 30, 2024 Wow where to start. Lots of little things starting to come together that have been ticking away in the background. First wee job was to apply 3m ppf to all the rollcage members. I knew as soon as I put belts in the car they would be forever chipping the paint. Very satisfying and can hardly notice the film. So next job was to mount seatbelts. I bought a matching set of belts from racetech for passenger seat and started figuring out how to mount these as be schedule A. Was an absolute prick of a job not made any easier by the passenger seat being directly above where the fuel lines run, and the fact that both my seats are slammed so low you can’t even get an eye bolt under them.. because touring car things of course.. Ended up opening a hole in the chassis rail to slide a 40x100mm plate inside for the passenger one. But very stoked to have this done. Have been chipping away at rollcage padding with the hard sfi foam. Quite fiddly to get fitting right and also need to buy some more to finish the job it’s pretty expensive stuff! Sorry no pics because I still haven’t accepted if I’m happy with what I’ve done 😂 Dropped a load of parts off at the powdercoaters. This should hopefully be the last batch and is lots of bits that will make everything look a little more finished. Footplates look sooo good. Used some left over tuff deck EVA foam from a job on the boat. Should be durable and grippy when wet. Headlight support structures look super tidy too and blend into headlight housing well. Also pushed the go button on a plumbed in extinguisher. This will be piece of mind for my over-customised car, particularly around the hot exhaust and fuel systems. It’s a massive job to install these things, so slowly chipping away at it. Last bit of progress has been on the airbox. A friend printed a test piece of my airbox design so I could check geometry and design features. Generally, I’m very happy with it, although I did I get the geometry wrong by 30mm or so. This was an easy way to validate the design so all part of the process. Few changes I want to make to the design; - fix geometry - increase thickness of itb flange to 5-6mm - increase volume. #3 & #4 runners have a lot of extra space underneath. Ideally I’d like to get volume up to 25-30L - incorporate support stays in behind filters to keep shape/hold filters in if I ever create positive pressure in this airbox - Vee the two filter positions maybe 20deg or so to form an air damn in the middle, also encouraging to to flow to the outer corners of the airbox. Should minimise width and maximise filter area. So this is what it looks like currently goddamn it’s going to look sexy once finished, but still a very long way to go! 19 3 Quote
GARDRB Posted December 12, 2024 Posted December 12, 2024 Asking for a friend, did you end up getting a C60 for this and if so does it mount using the same brackets and mounts as the c56? I have a C66 and 2zr sitting in the driveway and I'm having silly ideas about putting it in my ae101 wagon Quote
Rhyscar Posted December 12, 2024 Author Posted December 12, 2024 57 minutes ago, GARDRB said: Asking for a friend, did you end up getting a C60 for this and if so does it mount using the same brackets and mounts as the c56? I have a C66 and 2zr sitting in the driveway and I'm having silly ideas about putting it in my ae101 wagon Yeah man, it sure does. I used the brackets from C56 and bolted them to the C60 and it bolts in. Even the drivers side mount is pretty close - just buy the little adapter plate from monkeywrench racing (I presume 2zr and 2zz will be very similar). There's also guy I chat with based in pukekohe/auckland? that's doing plug & play looms for 2zz to ae1xx chassis. Headers/exhaust are the hardest part. Factory headers fit but generally suck. Headers made for MRS/MR2 2zz swaps work in the ae1xx chassis. Quote
GARDRB Posted December 12, 2024 Posted December 12, 2024 The 2ZR uses the 1ZZ header flange so I might see if I can get some factory MR2 headers. The car needs a WOF first though 2 Quote
Rhyscar Posted January 5 Author Posted January 5 The airbox saga continues - one step at a time. So after printing the test piece, I made a bunch of adjustments to the design to maximise volume to from 13L to 19L, 2x porsche 928 K&N filters which gives it 50% more filter area than factory and generally improved the geometry around the trumpet bellmouth. This was a big constraint - alternator and charging post. I managed to measure it all up and create clearance. Increased clearance around trumpet to min of 30mm. Having a cutout for alternator also meant I could drop the base of the airbox by around 40mm. Completed design So I finished the design off and was like sweet lets print this bitch! But the size of this final part meant the price jumped from $6-800 up to $2500!! I also did some research/talking to Roman Dave I decided a powder-based material provided better final-part functionality than a filament-based print which probably increased price a bit. To an extent, the cost doesn't matter too much at this point as I'm already so deep in this project, but if anything was wrong with the design I'd be up for another $2500 which would hurt. So I decided to split the trumpets from the airbox so I could manufacture using different methods (print trumpets and carbon fibre from airbox due to size). Of course, this is where CAD sucks a bit because I needed to re-draw the whole thing to keep the geometry/features I wanted and not butcher the model too much. So another 10hrs of drawing and I'd split trumpets out, and added an interlocking flange on each trumpet for the airbox to mount to. 6 Quote
Popular Post Rhyscar Posted January 5 Author Popular Post Posted January 5 China is amazing. Order placed 19th Dec, printed on 25th Dec, shipped on Boxing day ready for local dispatch 30th Dec. Wouldn't get that kind of service here in NZ!! Unfortunately, #1 was damaged during transit so working through a solution there. It can still be used for now, but isn't ideal. So in the end these cost around $350 to get printed. Splitting them into smaller parts made them significantly cheaper to produce. Ended up going with Nylon PA12 for material. Has heat resistance up to 145deg C or so and better strength properties than the filament-based carbon fibre infused prints. It has a slightly textured finish which probably won't be a bad thing. Fitted up on the car Ready for some DOORTY noises. In hindsight, I could probably have straighten them out a little, but unfortunately the way I drew the trumpets meant I needed to keep a constant radius. They even clear the bonnet. What a SUCCESS!! Car is now pretty much ready for a tune. I'll add a few basic heat shrouds to keep radiator air from trumpets and need to check for exhaust leaks. We've got baby #2 arriving early March (expecting late feb TBH), so will see if I can squeeze this in beforehand or while on paternity leave 18 1 Quote
Popular Post Rhyscar Posted February 4 Author Popular Post Posted February 4 lots of little things been happening but not much progress to show for it... yet. Finished off the airbox model. Made adjustments I found from last prototype. I wanted to check the changes - particularly around alternator clearance as I dropped the floor by 40mm to gain the volume. So got a friend printing a few 'slices' of the airbox around the bits I'm concerned about. Next step is to print the whole airbox as 1 piece from a cheap material then get Mike Shaw to Carbon over it (either in halves or take a mold from it and make a real pretty part). I was considering using resin for this part. Does anyone have experience with how brittle a resin part will be for shipping and holding it's shape to take a part off? Finally fitted the front ducts to the bumper. Attached using M3 & M4 black cap screws (were as cunty as you think they would be!) instead of rivets for stealth look and big washers. Also fitted a tow hook cause it needed to happen at some point. Looks mint. Still got the centre duct piece to make and powder coat to cover up the white lower radiator member... Managed to drive the car to a car show 2km down the road at the Hamilton Lake. Was awesome to get it out in public. Lots of people interested which is cool. Pretty surreal moment that at times I wouldn't know if it would ever arrive. Enjoyed the moment anyway. Started making door cards. One of those jobs I've been putting off for a long time. Turns out using 0.6mm ali too thin and warped like buggery when bead rolled it. Ordered a sheet of 0.9mm to try again when I get around to it. Next 3D printing job is a set of bonnet vents to get the coolers air out the top. This has always been the plan, I just hadn't converted the sketch on my whiteboard to a model. Managed to get it looking aesthetically good (I think anyway). Will be interesting to see what it comes out like. Going with Nylon PA12 material again but getting them shot peened which will hopefully make them smooth enough to paint for UV protection. Got a pretty cool design on the go for a strut brace with Alloy 3D printed ends and carbon tube... Will share once I've got model looking acceptable. Tune booked in for 18th Feb. Will be interesting to see how that goes. Wish me luck!! 15 Quote
Rhyscar Posted Sunday at 06:39 Author Posted Sunday at 06:39 Strut brace design complete, just need to double check a few dimensions and then it's off to the printers. Tried to design in a few features that would be impossible to fabricate just because I can... Stoked with how the carbon/alloy combo will look when complete too. 8 Quote
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